- Thread starter
- #941
I’ve got this soaking in PB blaster but not a lot to work with to try and remove it,
Build Chronicles of Bonnie and Clyde
- Thread starter greenbeast
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- Thread starter
- #943
Agree, it’s has been worked over before, pretty evident.
Sure. Entirely possible. But the rest of the radiator could probably use some professional attention. A good radiator shop can make it like new. or slightly better.DIY. Clean it real good and solder ya fitting back in. Or silver solder or Braze. Not hard!
- Thread starter
- #946
BobDIY. Clean it real good and solder ya fitting back in. Or silver solder or Braze. Not hard!
Would love to give it a try. Time not on my side with wife’s surgery this week and body swap on the 12th.
I’ll let the pros handle this one and think I found good shop I can take to Wednesday after wife settled.
Oops, I juist did this same thing..
- Thread starter
- #948
Radiator dropped off at shop this morning. Love it when someone says it should only be a couple days.
Pondering best option regarding the 69 interior and the body swap coming up.
69 is three on the tree, Delancys is not. The interior carpet professionally installed at the upholstery shop while in Grand Junction. Appears they used light adhesive to install it and tucked it well on edges with door trim and kick panels.
Instead of pulling it and messing it all up, it seems to make better sense to discretely cut patch where shifters will be at time of swap. Dremel and razor should make this pretty easy.
Pondering best option regarding the 69 interior and the body swap coming up.
69 is three on the tree, Delancys is not. The interior carpet professionally installed at the upholstery shop while in Grand Junction. Appears they used light adhesive to install it and tucked it well on edges with door trim and kick panels.
Instead of pulling it and messing it all up, it seems to make better sense to discretely cut patch where shifters will be at time of swap. Dremel and razor should make this pretty easy.
- Thread starter
- #949
Is it worth the trouble sound proofing just the firewall, doors, tailgate at area behind he back seat? Was going to order some damplifier pro and do install but as above removing all the installed carpet going to be hassle. I’m sure some would be better than nothing,
IMHO, yes. I did most all (not the rear cargo section) of that and went back and did the floors and so far (limited road time) I am glad I took the time to do it. I still have a rear door and rear quarters to go though.
Absolutely. Everything but the roof was done on Bonnie/Frankencruiser. Also helps with temps, oil canning etc. Shut any door on Bonnie and compare to your other Pigs. You’ll feel and hear the difference.
The sound proofing I did on my 40 doors turned them from hollow drums to dull thud Sheetrock sounding …made a significant difference in the noise. While driving…hard to say… it’s noisy
Jon I am pretty sure you will have to pull at least some of the carpet from the sides to get to some of the body bolts. Of course it's been well over a year since I pulled my body so I could be remembering incorrectly.
- Thread starter
- #954
Ive got time at work today (like everyday) to search your thread if you documented it. The less I have to pull the better
Yes but I didn't have any carpet, just the OEM vinyl which is pretty easy to yank out of the way. But you should get a pretty good idea of where all the mounts are from my thread.
- Thread starter
- #956
Raining cats and dogs here this morning so outside work not going to happen! Need to work on pigs anyway. Read @WarDamnEagle and @PabloCruise threads at work Thursday. Appreciate both of you all doing such great job documenting things.
Body swap on track for next weekend. Doing what I can to prep for it. Radiator for the 76 apparently not finished and shop closed at noon yesterday when I called at 4 to check in on it. Carb for 69 also apparently not finished like i hoped it would be. Lot’s to do without these items either way. Just hoped to have them running this weekend.
Labeling and disconnecting wires. Gonna go ahead and remove necessary carpet to access the body bolts. Going to spray the bolts with PB blaster every couple days, hopefully this will help some stubborn ones.
Need to identify and order some new screws/bolts to attach the new dash when time is right.
IF my memory serves me right it seems like @Pighead mentioned new body mounts required longer bolts or at least in a couple spots? Gonna have to figure that out.
Body swap on track for next weekend. Doing what I can to prep for it. Radiator for the 76 apparently not finished and shop closed at noon yesterday when I called at 4 to check in on it. Carb for 69 also apparently not finished like i hoped it would be. Lot’s to do without these items either way. Just hoped to have them running this weekend.
Labeling and disconnecting wires. Gonna go ahead and remove necessary carpet to access the body bolts. Going to spray the bolts with PB blaster every couple days, hopefully this will help some stubborn ones.
Need to identify and order some new screws/bolts to attach the new dash when time is right.
IF my memory serves me right it seems like @Pighead mentioned new body mounts required longer bolts or at least in a couple spots? Gonna have to figure that out.
- Thread starter
- #958
Excited for sure. Gonna have my work cut out for me once i get the 69 back. @PabloCruise thread gave me some good ideas for sure. I want to undercoat the body and he used “Evercoat rubberized undercoating” I have reached out this morning to see how this has worked out for him. I’m sure there may be some other quality products but having someone who has used a product success is worth its weight in gold.
Tear down plan has been created so we don’t miss much. Also tools and accessories being compiled today, prepare for the worst, hope for the best!
- Thread starter
- #959
Lots of interesting things here.
Not sure why this is called but assume it is voltage regulator for light and such, seems to have a loose wire. Some wriring shenanigans 2 small caliber wires which come off + battery terminal are spliced into the heavier red one that then goes to the fuse plate, any ideas?
Emailed pics of door handles to some chrome shops in Tulsa. They definitely need it.
Not sure why this is called but assume it is voltage regulator for light and such, seems to have a loose wire. Some wriring shenanigans 2 small caliber wires which come off + battery terminal are spliced into the heavier red one that then goes to the fuse plate, any ideas?
Emailed pics of door handles to some chrome shops in Tulsa. They definitely need it.
Despite my OLD background in radio electronics, wiring in my vehicle is always a nemesis. As soon as I see something isn’t functioning, if it’s not simple ..I get antsy. Funny thing is that I usually fix it but now without that hour of anxiety before digging in. Good luck… this isn’t someone being creative with a fusible link ?