Broken 2H

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I'm currently watching Roma prep for a 1HZ install into a 40. So far the input shaft is different ( fine spline ) fir Trans and he will have to modify the engine mount and make a Trans mount. The engine is in transit so the motor mount mods have not begun yet. Parts are more readily available.
 
Thanks for the info. I am pretty sure I don't want an 1HZ as it is indirect injection. That's what killed my 2H.

But I expect that the mods required will be similar to the 1HD-T
 
12H-T might be more durable than 1HD-T but that will be in maintenance .. certainly, 12HT timing gears vs belt.

1HD-T will ave no problem on starting, and driving experience from 2H ( even turboed and some mods see my sign ) it's day and night . ..

Which tranny are you gonna use ?
 
I think that I'll stick with the 12HT. I have a source, and it is the most simple. I have heard that starting the 12HT is way easier than the 2H. The 2H is a prick of a thing to start when cold. Three to fours on the block heater minimum.
 
When I had a HJ61 it would start in -30 C during our Canadian winters. I cycled the glow two or three times to make it easier but it started first glow everytime no matter what temps I was in. I like my 1HZ way more than the old 12HT, thats just me, but it doesn't start as easily when it starts getting really cold.
 
The difference between starting my 2H (glowed) and my 12HT (not glowed) is night and day. The 12HT really starts more like my 2F with the reduction gear starter.
 
Same.

Our 12HT (lots of miles) starts without any glow at many degrees below zero.

The factory glow timer doesn't schedule any glow until you are right around freezing (0 C) anyway.

I imagine a 1HD-T is similar.

But since you have a 2H currently, 12HT is the easy/simple answer.

Dan
 
I don't think you will have any starting problem with either DI from Toyota .. ( 12HT vs 1HD-T or family )
 
Go 12ht. Cold starting is no issue, and you can easily wire the two stage glow screen through a wilson switch, or you might already have the extra "secret" spot on your ignition thumbler for manual glow activation. The 12ht fires right up on my coldest days, with just a second or two on the glow screen. And you can wire the afterglow (smaller screen) just for engine comfort if you like.
Do a thread on the swap, everything should be pretty straight forward since you have the half cut. I'll contribute with whatever help is needed, as i have both a 2H and a 12ht.
 
Michael B said:
Thanks Fey. I have the vsv and its part number posted on my build thread. That will be quicker for you spot in my thread than waiting on me to look up the part number. It is a Toyota part that I purchased from my local dealership for about $75.00.
Click to expand...

Thanks! The part that I found on your thread is 90910-12014. Correct? A vacuum valve with a metal frame and a blue body...

Also looking for a set of 12V heater screens. I know that I should not need them in California, but I do travel to cold places (Colorado in the winter, etc.) It would really be nice to have them if needed.

I am living in an apartment, so my doing the swap myself is out of the question. So I can not really do much justice to any sort of swap thread. I may start a thread asking technical things that I'd need to consider like:

For reasons of being REALLY short on cash, I am going to continue with my 4 speed transmission rather than upgrade to the H55F. Is the pilot bearing / input shaft on the H55F the same as on my current 4 speed transmission (not sure of the model)?

I am guessing that it would be wise to replace the clutch, radiator hoses, and belts at the time of the swap. Any ideas on parts numbers?

Cheers,
Michael
 
Hi Fey,
Sorry for the late reply. That is the correct part number. I understand the funding situation. You might consider 3:70 gears and taller tires as an economical alternative to get better highway speed/fuel economy. I would put new hoses, belts and a clutch in it as well as a rear main. @beno here on mud can help you with the part numbers. If your not going to run AC on your rig you can rotate the thermostat housing 90 degrees and use your original radiator if I remember correctly. You can post a build thread just be sure to take pictures to post upon every visit to the shop that does the work. I still don't think you need to worry with the pre-heaters IMHO. Good luck I look forward to seeing the end result!

Michael <><
 
Michael B said:
Hi Fey,
Sorry for the late reply. That is the correct part number. I understand the funding situation. You might consider 3:70 gears and taller tires as an economical alternative to get better highway speed/fuel economy. I would put new hoses, belts and a clutch in it as well as a rear main. @beno here on mud can help you with the part numbers. If your not going to run AC on your rig you can rotate the thermostat housing 90 degrees and use your original radiator if I remember correctly. You can post a build thread just be sure to take pictures to post upon every visit to the shop that does the work. I still don't think you need to worry with the pre-heaters IMHO. Good luck I look forward to seeing the end result!

Michael <><
Click to expand...

I want to keep the A/C bit. Lucky for me, the I already have a 2H radiator installed, so I should not have to bother with flipping the thermostat housing. I'll give Beno a shout for part numbers. For the pre-heaters, it's my job to worry. Last thing that I want to do is get stuck somewhere really cold for lack of a heater.

Cheers!
 
I would run the glow screens via a Wilson switch or you can run the bj40 glow plug system to fire the glow screens but you need the hj61 glow screen timer and both relays.
I willput a link up how it's done when I get on the desk top.
 
Okay guys,

I finally got the 12HT installed. It runs great and has lots of power. Starts like a dream. During the 100 mile test run, it started and ran beautifully with more power than I expected. The second drive of a shorted duration the exhaust leak appeared. At the moment, I have two concerns:

1. It has an exhaust leak in the manifold gasket on the #1 cylinder. I don't really want to pull the engine, remove the head and resurface it. Any options?

Exhaust_Manifold.webp



2. The compressor side of the turbo shows nicks on the leading edge of the compressor wheel. The seems to be no end
Two items here. I just got my FJ back with the replacement 12HT engine. I note that there is an exhaust leak in the manifold at the #1 cylinder. Any thoughts on how to proceed with the repair?

Also shown is the compressor wheel on the turbo. A few leading edge nicks, but nothing really terrible. No end to end play, but a very slight side to side play. Should I be worried?

Turbo.webp
 
more likely the manifold will wan't a skim, ive had more success with copper exh gaskets on all my turbo stuff, turbo be fine, I'd be inclined to run a 'road draught tube' rather than plumb blowby back into the inlet, this is likely illegal however, so do at your own discretion
 
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