- Thread starter
- #361
Yep, there's a stage 2 or stage 3 available with 2.5 reservoir shocks. Or the stage 4 that has the 2.5 resi's with CDC adjustment.
Build Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build
- Thread starter Box Rocket
- Start date
Member Build Threads
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
whats the stroke length on the icons???
- Thread starter
- #363
Go to the vendor forums and look at the Redline Land Cruisers vender forum and the info is all there. Redline is the US distributor so you should be able to find it on their webpage too.
They have a group buy going on it right now.
- Thread starter
- #364
Mine are 12". I think those are the longest option. I'll have to look again to be sure.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #365
Here's the thread you want.
Auto-Craft Suspension Kits
Auto-Craft Suspension Kits
hmmm yah I'm leaning towards King for this set as the ICON pricing north of the border is way high but the king has stayed the same.....
its still a couple months away and depending what my rigs motor is doing after Moab i could be rethinking my approach
Are you coming to RT this year??
its still a couple months away and depending what my rigs motor is doing after Moab i could be rethinking my approach
Are you coming to RT this year??
- Thread starter
- #367
Don't confuse the Auto-Craft stuff with the regular Icon kits that are out now. They're not the same thing. The Icon coils have a much lighter spring rate and won't handle a load as well if you have a heavy cruiser with bumpers, winch, drawers, rear swing out etc.
The Autocraft Slinky long travel coils (that's what I'm using) are designed specifically for the "overland" style 80. They have different coil options with different spring rates to match your setup. Also the Icon shocks used in the Autocraft stuff are not "off-the-shelf" Icons. They are custom valved/tuned to Autocraft specs for the 80s.
I can tell you from experience now that they are tuned just about perfectly.
If you don't know about Autocraft there are some other threads about them but they've been perfecting and selling this same setup for 80s in Australia for a while already. They've done excellent work with it IMO.
The Autocraft Slinky long travel coils (that's what I'm using) are designed specifically for the "overland" style 80. They have different coil options with different spring rates to match your setup. Also the Icon shocks used in the Autocraft stuff are not "off-the-shelf" Icons. They are custom valved/tuned to Autocraft specs for the 80s.
I can tell you from experience now that they are tuned just about perfectly.
If you don't know about Autocraft there are some other threads about them but they've been perfecting and selling this same setup for 80s in Australia for a while already. They've done excellent work with it IMO.
- Thread starter
- #368
I'm not currently registered for RT but I might try to sneak down at least for a day if I can.
im not concerned about autocrat per say.... I have some OME comp springs sitting here at home so ill be changing things up here soon, going to do RT on my J springs for now
however the shocks are shocks..... I have the ability to tune to my needs/wants at home just like the Icon's I have here for the tundra they'll be getting a retune once I get some more seat time to see where it needs to go
you should sneak out for one day so i can look a little closer at your roof rack as Im looking at changing things up
however the shocks are shocks..... I have the ability to tune to my needs/wants at home just like the Icon's I have here for the tundra they'll be getting a retune once I get some more seat time to see where it needs to go
you should sneak out for one day so i can look a little closer at your roof rack as Im looking at changing things up
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 917
- Location
- Central Victoria, desert region.
- Website
- 4xoaus.com.au
im not concerned about autocrat per say.... I have some OME comp springs sitting here at home so ill be changing things up here soon, going to do RT on my J springs for now
however the shocks are shocks..... I have the ability to tune to my needs/wants at home just like the Icon's I have here for the tundra they'll be getting a retune once I get some more seat time to see where it needs to go
you should sneak out for one day so i can look a little closer at your roof rack as Im looking at changing things up
This isnt quite correct, to be honest, as the CDC adjuster works ALOT better than you can get a pintle style adjuster to work on a big heavy truck.
Then you have the built in bump zone above the manifold at fast piston speed.
And the 2.5s we do are a custom body and shaft to fit the compressed length with the stroke.
No all shocks are "just shocks "
- Thread starter
- #371
Not much to report but I'm doing a bit of brake work lately. I anticipate trying to increase braking performance some in the next month or so. Since the suspension swap I'm able to travel much faster on the trails and the brakes are heating up and fading quicker than they used to. I have a couple good recommendations for pad upgrades I'm looking at.
But I spent some time making sure my calipers and brake lines were in top shape. The calipers were working well but were quite rusty. So I did a bit of cleanup and a fresh coat of caliper paint.
Now just need to get some better pads.
But I spent some time making sure my calipers and brake lines were in top shape. The calipers were working well but were quite rusty. So I did a bit of cleanup and a fresh coat of caliper paint.
Now just need to get some better pads.
I've had good luck with Carbon Metallic pads, in the past. They perform better when hot, and require less pedal effort.
I just ordered a set for my 80, from Performance Friction, part number 0502.10.
I just ordered a set for my 80, from Performance Friction, part number 0502.10.
Let's trade LC's please!
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 917
- Location
- Central Victoria, desert region.
- Website
- 4xoaus.com.au
We should organise some carbon ones for you 
Will need rotors surface ground to remove any existing pad material contaminating the rotor surface.
Will need rotors surface ground to remove any existing pad material contaminating the rotor surface.
You might want to look into those groved slotted rotors at some point down the road.
I have also read something about 100 series pads as an upgraded.
I have also read something about 100 series pads as an upgraded.
- Thread starter
- #376
That would be fantastic! I chatted with Graeme about those in Moab and they sound like just the ticket. How can I go about getting a set?We should organise some carbon ones for you
Will need rotors surface ground to remove any existing pad material contaminating the rotor surface.
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 917
- Location
- Central Victoria, desert region.
- Website
- 4xoaus.com.au
We should have some more gear going to Justin so may be easy enough to slot into there as best option.
- Thread starter
- #378
Perfect! Let me know if you need anything from me.
- Thread starter
- #379
I worked on a bit of body work yesterday. The hood on the cruiser was in rough shape. The clearcoat was pitted and flaking all over it. This was one of the reasons I blacked out the center section, to cover the worst of the peeling. But the sides of the hood were also bad so I sanded them down and repainted them. I had some 1A6 color mixed up and put into rattle cans. I did a primer, base coat and clearcoat. Turned out pretty good for being rattle canned, and the color match was quite good.
Primer
base coat
Clearcoat
In the sunlight
Primer
base coat
Clearcoat
In the sunlight
that looks great! Who did you use to procure paint? I have been looking for a good place......