Bolt in Torque Tube?

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MyCruiserisaHogBeast

MyCruiserisaHogBeast

10 Year
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I remember I stumbled across someone who made a bolt in replacement torque tube. I have a 1979 2F/SM465/4Speed and the PO cut the cross member out, I don't have a replacement although I do have another one that's been chopped up....

Does anyone make a replacement that just bolts up for easy removal? I've heard mixed opinions about the function of the tube anyways, and I've been debating: Leave as is? Weld the chopped up one back into place with no option to service/ remove TC or parking brake from below, also not much clearance? Create a big, bad removable crossmember out of round or square stock? Box the frame is a Ruff Stuff kit and leave the crossmember out? Buys this "prefabbed" bolt in torque tube I saw on here and can't remember where I saw it?

Experts weight in!!!! Thanks!
 
If you want it to be removable you could probably weld flat plate to the ends of the one you have. Drill mounting holes in the flat plate and wedge it back into the frame and bolt it up. Pictures of what you have to work with might help.
 
I pretty much did that with my trail truck during installation of the V8 and NV4500. I cut it out and flanged it, offsetting it a few inches rearward for increased clearance, and then bolted it back. It's probably not as effective as solid tube would be, but I haven't felt the need to rework it. A quick search did not locate photos of it.

MyCruiserisaHogBeast said:
I remember I stumbled across someone who made a bolt in replacement torque tube. I have a 1979 2F/SM465/4Speed and the PO cut the cross member out, I don't have a replacement although I do have another one that's been chopped up....

Does anyone make a replacement that just bolts up for easy removal? I've heard mixed opinions about the function of the tube anyways, and I've been debating: Leave as is? Weld the chopped up one back into place with no option to service/ remove TC or parking brake from below, also not much clearance? Create a big, bad removable crossmember out of round or square stock? Box the frame is a Ruff Stuff kit and leave the crossmember out? Buys this "prefabbed" bolt in torque tube I saw on here and can't remember where I saw it?

Experts weight in!!!! Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Your use of the phrase "torque tube" is incorrect.

Torque_tube_axle_(Autocar_Handbook,_13th_ed,_1935).jpg
 
Fast Eddy said:
Your use of the phrase "torque tube" is incorrect.

Torque_tube_axle_(Autocar_Handbook,_13th_ed,_1935).jpg
Click to expand...

I always thought that calling it a torque tube was a little odd.... I think we should rename it. My vote is for the "WHY THE F DID THEY PUT IT RIGHT THERE?!?!?" Cross member. We could just create an acronym for it : WTFDTPIRT Makes perfect sense to me. It's so early, I should be working.
 
UZJ40 said:
This is what I'd use if I wanted a removable piece:

Camburg Billet Tube clamps

CAM-040001.jpg


interlock-parts.jpg
Click to expand...


I like that idea, the only thing is that my understanding of the tube is that is actually loads up when the frame twists, the clamp wouldn't work under that situation, someone clarify because if I'm wrong that is a great idea.
 
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B y r o n said:
If you want it to be removable you could probably weld flat plate to the ends of the one you have. Drill mounting holes in the flat plate and wedge it back into the frame and bolt it up. Pictures of what you have to work with might help.
Click to expand...

The truck is at the shop as of right now, basically the original tube was cut with a couple of inches left sticking out on each side. I have a tube that is roughly the right size to weld in, just wanted to do something that moves it back.
 
Technically incorrect as it is lots of people call it the torque tube... long time cruiser heads as well... correctly i quess it should be "Round Tube Crossmember" or " Tubular Crossmember" or just crossmember


or maybe it should be called the:

TRTT "Twisted round tube thingy"
 
Probably a fair amount if in-out/left-right stress on the frame here too since there's no other crossmember from the bellhousing to the rear crossmember (except the body)and the spring hangers have to put a good amount of stress to this part of the frame.
 
MyCruiserisaHogBeast said:
I like that idea, the only thing is that my understanding of the tube is that is actually loads up when the frame twists, the clamp wouldn't work under that situation, someone clarify because if I'm wrong that is a great idea.
Click to expand...

The couplers are designed so they are stronger than the tube they're connecting. They'll work.
 
Thread resurrection time.

I've run into a late-game issue with the torque-crossmember-tube thing on my '73. I'm fitting a 1HZ/H55 into a late '73 (mine is a crossover model with the later '74+ frame). When I test fit the powertrain, it cleared the cross member without any modification and, at the time, my thought was I could always lower the rear of the engine to service the transfer case, so I moved on to other things.

Months later, I'm now reinstalling the finished motor/trans assembly and the longer I've stared at that tube, the more I realize I'd be screwing myself if I leave it in the stock location. There is no way I can lower the rear end of the engine low enough to clear the transfer case (I've tried; the engine will hit the firewall first). I do not look forward to removing the entire drivetrain just to service the transfer case. So, now I need to make a decision.

Do I:

-Cut, relocate, and weld the tube ~5-6" rearward?
-Make the tube removable in the stock location with the use of a scab plate/bolts or the Camburg adapters?
-Just remove the tube altogether since I'm already using a frame crossmember under the 5 speed transmission?

Thoughts???
 
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