Axle swap ????

Joined
Mar 26, 2017
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49
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Layton,Ut
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I've had my '97 for 4 years now and just bought a locked '95. I bought it with the intention of swapping a few parts that I needed to replace on the '97 including an ARB front bumper and the locking axles. So here is where I am... I have installed the locker switch, light bulbs in the dash cluster for the lockers, and also the "D" bulb while I was in there! Installed the locker ECU in the passenger kick panel and swapped the wiring harness from the drivers kick panel to the ds rear corner and the one between tail lights. So far so good! Now I'm on to the actual axles. The plan is to rebuild both axles as I switch them over. I am starting with the rear axle. It is pretty rusty and the only problem I am having so far is the 4 bolts on the rear drive shaft where it connects to the rear diff. Any tips or tricks to get them broken loose? Any other suggestions are welcome as well. Thanks in advance!
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My new favorite tool! Something like 1200 ft.lbs. in reverse!
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
1,776
View attachment 1439904 View attachment 1439905 I've had my '97 for 4 years now and just bought a locked '95. I bought it with the intention of swapping a few parts that I needed to replace on the '97 including an ARB front bumper and the locking axles. So here is where I am... I have installed the locker switch, light bulbs in the dash cluster for the lockers, and also the "D" bulb while I was in there! Installed the locker ECU in the passenger kick panel and swapped the wiring harness from the drivers kick panel to the ds rear corner and the one between tail lights. So far so good! Now I'm on to the actual axles. The plan is to rebuild both axles as I switch them over. I am starting with the rear axle. It is pretty rusty and the only problem I am having so far is the 4 bolts on the rear drive shaft where it connects to the rear diff. Any tips or tricks to get them broken loose? Any other suggestions are welcome as well. Thanks in advance!View attachment 1439906
My new favorite tool! Something like 1200 ft.lbs. in reverse!
I'm not trying to flame you, but whoever told you that your electric 1/2 drive DeWalt impact puts out 1200 "Foot pounds of torque" is pulling your leg. You'd need to be in the 3/4 inch air impact (working range 200 to 900 F.P. with 1100 F.P. max output) to 1 inch air impact range (working range 200 F.P. to 900 F.P. with 1475 F.P. max output) to even be close to that amount of torque output.
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2015
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morro bay calif
View attachment 1439904 View attachment 1439905 I've had my '97 for 4 years now and just bought a locked '95. I bought it with the intention of swapping a few parts that I needed to replace on the '97 including an ARB front bumper and the locking axles. So here is where I am... I have installed the locker switch, light bulbs in the dash cluster for the lockers, and also the "D" bulb while I was in there! Installed the locker ECU in the passenger kick panel and swapped the wiring harness from the drivers kick panel to the ds rear corner and the one between tail lights. So far so good! Now I'm on to the actual axles. The plan is to rebuild both axles as I switch them over. I am starting with the rear axle. It is pretty rusty and the only problem I am having so far is the 4 bolts on the rear drive shaft where it connects to the rear diff. Any tips or tricks to get them broken loose? Any other suggestions are welcome as well. Thanks in advance!View attachment 1439906
My new favorite tool! Something like 1200 ft.lbs. in reverse!
Dude Life to short as it is, get some full size Jake stands Harbor freight has them for cheep!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
49
Location
Layton,Ut
IMG_3297.PNG
I'm not trying to flame you, but whoever told you that your electric 1/2 drive DeWalt impact puts out 1200 "Foot pounds of torque" is pulling your leg. You'd need to be in the 3/4 inch air impact (working range 200 to 900 F.P. with 1100 F.P. max output) to 1 inch air impact range (working range 200 F.P. to 900 F.P. with 1475 F.P. max output) to even be close to that amount of torque output.
Dang nice however you read it. Fits in my tool box a lot easier than A 50 gal air compressor and a generator to push the 220 to run it!
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Jan 29, 2014
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Battle Ground
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Dang nice however you read it. Fits in my tool box a lot easier than A 50 gal air compressor and a generator to push the 220 to run it!
My pneumatic impact says 800lb/ft and there is no way it does that much. Their ratings are BS. If that gun you have did 1200, you wouldn't have had to create this thread.
You can always cut those companion flange bolts off. It's fast and you get to make a lot of pretty sparks. :D
 
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Apr 4, 2013
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Springfield, OR
My advice for you, someone mentioned PB blaster... PB is good, not as good as say Kroil in my opinion but even Kroil has nothing on a 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone for rusty bolts. But! Before that I will tell you that you should lightly heat the nut side of the bolts before trying to break then loose. If I recall there is a thin greenish or bluish thread locker on them. Then I'd use a box end wrench and a dead blow to loosen them. That's what I've been doing for years and it works rather well. Just make sure you're going in the counter clockwise direction.
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
49
Location
Layton,Ut
My advice for you, someone mentioned PB blaster... PB is good, not as good as say Kroil in my opinion but even Kroil has nothing on a 50/50 solution of ATF and acetone for rusty bolts. But! Before that I will tell you that you should lightly heat the nut side of the bolts before trying to break then loose. If I recall there is a thin greenish or bluish thread locker on them. Then I'd use a box end wrench and a dead blow to loosen them. That's what I've been doing for years and it works rather well. Just make sure you're going in the counter clockwise direction.
Thanks! Righty tighty! ;)
 
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Jun 30, 2015
Messages
105
Location
Temple Terrace, FL
CRC makes a product called "freeze off". Thats the best penetrate I've ever found. But judging buy your pics I don't see really those bolts being rusty. Two wrenches and some good ole muscle will get them loose. But...I use my 1/2" drive air cat 1200 with swivel impact. Zips them right off and no busted knuckles for me.
 
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Feb 4, 2015
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Dang nice however you read it. Fits in my tool box a lot easier than A 50 gal air compressor and a generator to push the 220 to run it!
Like i said above, I wasn't trying to flame you, but I've spend years working with the tools to repair heavy equipment, based on my experience, i think DeWalt's spec's are stretching the truth more then a little. But hay, those spec's are on them, not you, so if it's working for you, and your happy with it, then that's great!
 

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
 
 
Joined
Mar 29, 2003
Messages
4,901
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PNW - WA
If you have access to a torch, just burn the bolts out.

If not, a MAP gas bottle & any PB Blaster or Kroil or ATF & mineral spirts will get you there.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2015
Messages
1,166
Location
Westminster, CO
Picked up some big jack stands today!
That's great! It makes the front easy when you can use the frame rail way up front. Plus you will need the small ones to make removing the axle easier.

Now's the perfect time to upgrade rod ends, bushings, rebuild driveshafts,flush brake fluid, all kinds of good stuff!

Good luck
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
49
Location
Layton,Ut
That's great! It makes the front easy when you can use the frame rail way up front. Plus you will need the small ones to make removing the axle easier.

Now's the perfect time to upgrade rod ends, bushings, rebuild driveshafts,flush brake fluid, all kinds of good stuff!

Good luck
Thats the plan! Stopped by cruiser outfitters today to pick up front and rear axle rebuild kits and bushings to find out they were closed and trying to get on the road to moab for the jeep safari!
 
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