Another overheating thread

[mindcrash]

I apologize as I know this has been covered ad-nauseum, but posting here is my last resort before taking it to a shop. I've consumed every overheating thread I can find and none of the solutions have helped. I'm still running too hot when climbing or when driving for extended time when it's hot outside. When driving from Denver to Ft. Collins she would get up to 220 on the highway, turn off the AC, and cool back down to 216 and the AC would turn back on, and the cycle would repeat. When climbing from Denver on I70 she was at 230 when I pulled off the highway at the Lookout Mountain exit (this is basically the first exit in the mountains, still in the foothills really).

I've owned this 1997 FZJ80 since January. 196k currently on the odometer. Since my ownership I've had the engine completely resealed (including head gasket), had a new radiator installed, new water pump, new thermostat, new hoses, new drive belts - all are OEM. I've installed a modified blue hub fan clutch from Landtank, foam gasket around the fan shroud, flushed the system until the water ran clear 2x, and made sure she was burped after refilling with 50/50 Toyota Red. Belts appear to be tensioned correctly by feel but I have no way to verify for certain (they give about 1/4" when I tug on them). I have an ARB front bumper and winch installed, but nothing is mounted in front of the grille to restrict airflow. 3" lift on 33's running stock gearing.

I'm planning on checking the timing tomorrow, but assuming that was done correctly at the shop, what else can I do here? I don't think an upgraded radiator should be necessary and am trying to avoid that.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated. We have a trip planned to go wheel in Palo Duro Canyon in 3 weeks and want to make sure she'll make it there and back.

 

[lumbee1]

Which fan hub do you have?
Does the fan spin easily by hand with engine off?
Does the fan pull a huge rush of air at startup?
Is there foam around the radiator?
Which coolant, red or green?
What does the coolant look like?
Did the overheating start after the headgasket?
Has the system been burped?

 

[lanierchris]

With the radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and fan setup already addressed, I’d verify the things that can still make a healthy 3FE run hot before buying a bigger radiator. Check base timing with TE1/E1 jumped and a light rather than relying on the shop’s assumption; retarded timing can show up mostly under load. Confirm the fan clutch actually locks when hot and that the shroud and every foam seal around the radiator are intact. An IR reading across the radiator, plus checking the dash gauge/sender, can separate a real temperature problem from a bad reading. I’d also pressure-test the system and do a combustion-gas test after the head-gasket work, and inspect the lower hose for collapse. The 33s/stock gearing add load, but shouldn’t by themselves cause 230°F in the foothills. We specialize in 80/100s out of Hagerstown — happy to assist.

 

[jonheld]

With the radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and fan setup already addressed, I’d verify the things that can still make a healthy 3FE run hot before buying a bigger radiator.

He's got a 97 FZJ80.

 

[mindcrash]

Which fan hub do you have?
Does the fan spin easily by hand with engine off?
Does the fan pull a huge rush of air at startup?
Is there foam around the radiator?
Which coolant, red or green?
What does the coolant look like?
Did the overheating start after the headgasket?
Has the system been burped?

OEM Blue Hub modified by Landtank
It spins by hand but does not spin freely - as in when I remove my hand it stops spinning.
Yes, there's a whoosh.
I installed foam around the sides and bottom of the fan shroud.
Red coolant, brand new.
Unknown - I bought it in January, drove it from Tulsa to Denver with no issues regarding the temperature (but no scanguage for that drive). I took it for the headgasket and other work within 2 weeks of bringing it home. The original headgasket was leaking.
Yes, the system has been burped.