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- #41
Another diesel 40 build
- Thread starter roma042987
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Getting proficient at removing the rivets between everything I've had to remove off these two frames. I generally use a carbide burr followed by a flap disk and then drill a hole before hammering them out. If I'm not planning on saving the part I'm removing (like the steering pedestal) I skip the burr and just use a cut off wheel.
Since I can't decide which engine I'll use for this truck, I decided to do something somewhat unique on this build. Since the frame will be galvanized and welding on it wont really be an option, I decided to make the frame side engine mounts removable. The original 2f mounts can be used with 12ht engine I have or, the B engine mounts will allow me to install one of my B engines. I have three 12hts in my garage at the moment as well as three 3bs and possibly a couple of 15b series engines to choose from.
Today I removed the 2f mounts and installed the BJ40 mounts on the frame (using the rusty bj40 frame for reference). I slightly enlarged all the rivet holes to accept 12mm hardware. The transmission should be in the same spot for both engines but I really need the cross member I'm going to use here to test fit everything.
On the right side frame rail, I removed a couple of weld nuts and welded up two holes that fell too close to where the BJ mount need to be mounted.
This frame had a couple of broken off fender holes in the frame that I didn't have much luck removing. I ended up punching the weld nuts out and will weld in new ones once the frame is sand blasted and before it goes to galvanizing.
Since I can't decide which engine I'll use for this truck, I decided to do something somewhat unique on this build. Since the frame will be galvanized and welding on it wont really be an option, I decided to make the frame side engine mounts removable. The original 2f mounts can be used with 12ht engine I have or, the B engine mounts will allow me to install one of my B engines. I have three 12hts in my garage at the moment as well as three 3bs and possibly a couple of 15b series engines to choose from.
Today I removed the 2f mounts and installed the BJ40 mounts on the frame (using the rusty bj40 frame for reference). I slightly enlarged all the rivet holes to accept 12mm hardware. The transmission should be in the same spot for both engines but I really need the cross member I'm going to use here to test fit everything.
On the right side frame rail, I removed a couple of weld nuts and welded up two holes that fell too close to where the BJ mount need to be mounted.
This frame had a couple of broken off fender holes in the frame that I didn't have much luck removing. I ended up punching the weld nuts out and will weld in new ones once the frame is sand blasted and before it goes to galvanizing.
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- FL Panhandle. Pcola/Miramar Beach
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Oddly gives me comfort seeing guys who have experience building great projects like you, have the same problems, like removing fender bolts from the frame I’ve had in the past. I wasted hours over days years back before throwing in the towel and saying 3 out of 4 bolts ain’t bad. Really deflated progress I was making. Or at least progress in my head before I had to walk away and do other things.
Have you thought about this cruisers use in your life for which engine would work best. Are you going to drive it often? On highway? Local or long distance? What speeds? How frequently? What are your plans for the built motors in your other vehicle homes that may work better for the motor I’m sure are things you’ve thought of.
With your nice little family you may need a troopy body or 43 to hold everyone for your adventures. Or now I’m also learning for their adventures you get to drive to.
Have you thought about this cruisers use in your life for which engine would work best. Are you going to drive it often? On highway? Local or long distance? What speeds? How frequently? What are your plans for the built motors in your other vehicle homes that may work better for the motor I’m sure are things you’ve thought of.
With your nice little family you may need a troopy body or 43 to hold everyone for your adventures. Or now I’m also learning for their adventures you get to drive to.
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- #44
This 40 is one of 4 so it will be a relatively mellow build. 31" tires and very mild lift. I was saving this 12ht for a clean 60 or 62 because I really want another 60 series but it's been sitting for two years now and I'm tempted to install it in something. I have a new h55 and rebuilt tcase sitting in a locker to put behind it already as well.
I'm prepping a 15bf to going into my yellow 40 currently so the 3b in it will be a candidate as well as this 3bii h55 combo I picked last year. If my 15bft ever arrives from Japan it'll go in the yellow truck and I'll yank the 15bf and put it in this 40.
At this point it doesn't make much sense to pull the drivetrain out of my donor 60 since I have several others sitting on the floor in the garage already.
Two of the other 40s are slated to be father/daughter and father/son projects.
Great diesel engines and projects mate!
PS. It sems that you did "dieselize" the horses at your stable, something quite uncommon in AZ, I guess...
- Thread starter
- #46
I do prefer the diesels for these old rigs.
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- #47
Test fitted the BJ40 engine block brackets to my 89 model 3bii. Pretty cool the block has the holes to accept the early mounts. I had to clean the threads up but they fit perfect.
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- #48
I noticed a couple of bolts missing for the IP bracket so that's what the two shiny gold ones are in the last picture.
I ordered new BJ40 isolators as well as new HJ47 isolators. Also a late and early trans crossmember isolator. I really want to use a 4plus crossmember @lcwizard on this truck which uses the later isolator but have an early 3 piece one here I could use to mock everything up with in the mean time.
Are you going to split the frame for galvanizing?
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- #50
Negative, no way I would want to remove that many rivets. I also don't like removing rivets and replacing them with bolts. Ultimately, I think the rivets are much stronger. I galvanized this frame over a decade ago and it doesn't have a spec of rust on it. I think galvanizing a 40 frame makes it pretty much last a lifetime.
- Thread starter
- #51
I also did this M416 trailer a while back. I actually have another m416 I'm going to get dipped when I do this 40.
Good thing I didn't know that thing was so close to me. I probably would have tried to get it. I'm actually glad I didn't know about it. I decided to go the route of a 1HDT for more power. Can't wait to see your project progress.
How much did it run you to galvanize the frame?
How much did it run you to galvanize the frame?
- Thread starter
- #53
$150 bucks. They charge by weight, it's $50 per one lbs. They have recently implemented a 500 lb minimum which is why I'm doing the other m416 trailer when I do this frame.
@roma042987 awesome stuff. Old Landy we have was galvanized frame, axle housings, etc. Went halfway around the world, did a stint in Alaska and was in Kodiak Island for about three years. Held up beautifully. One downside that you have to manage is being super careful when welding as the gases are toxic. Removing the galvanizing prior to welding is key. Means more thought into fab before galvanizing. I am preaching to Roma’s choir. 🤣. Carry on.
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- #56
I havent heard of anyone plating a frame before other than maybe chrome for a hot rod or something. You're not talking about e-coating perhaps are you? Would love to do that but, I only know of one place that does it in the south east and they won't even talk to you unless you're a manufacturer. I like powder but it's not as rust resistant as galvanizing and expensive if you can't do it yourself. I'd also be hesitant to let just any powder coater do a frame because I'm picky as heck.
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- Thread starter
- #57
I know all about the welding on galvanizing lol that's exactly why I modified this frame to accept two different engine mounting options. Didn't know Landy was galvanized, that's pretty sweet!
I'm not worried about welding on galvanized metal. I do it all the time. Grind it off the best you can, and just don't breathe in the fumes. (as always) $150 seems cheap as hell. Where did you have it done?
- Thread starter
- #59
South Atlantic in Chatanooga
I was looking at a company locally. It as a black zinc chromate of some sort. According to their website, it can be painted. What all that entails for paint, I'm not sure. I need to speak with somebody and get a better understanding.
When the time comes, I'm curious what just that blank chromate looks like. If it doesn't need to be powder coated and looks good enough, I'm probably in. My vehicle isn't a show rig, but I still want it to look decent and not rot away.
Powdercoating can't get everywhere. Plating does.
Both might be a good option for looks and corrosion resistance.
🤷🏻
