Another 1st Gen 4Runner Build (1 Viewer)

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Aug 10, 2015
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790
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Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Fellow Mudders,

Earlier this week my wife told me a neighbor from a few blocks away stopped by as they always see me in the driveway working on my 80 series, and hauling stuff to the dump in my 95 standard cab 22re (first vehicle I ever purchased).

Well, to make a long story short, the neighbor has a 1st Gen 4Runner that she wondered if I wanted to purchase.

Me- "How much?"
Her- "two thousand"
Me- "Does it run?"
Her-"No- hasn't in a 2 years."
Me- "How about $500?
Her- "How about $750?"
Me- "I'll take it."

So here's what I'm working with.

1989- 4Runner 3vz-e, automatic, 155k,
(Yeah, yeah, I know the dreaded engine and its an auto, so crucify me)


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Joined
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Messages
790
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
The problem areas

Bad spots- Apparently from a fender bender that was improperly "fixed."

Passenger side, rear wheel.

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Don't like this either.

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
So today I purchased a new battery, drained old gas (full tank), add new gas, new battery, changed the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor....

No dice, no start. Engine rotates but will NOT start.

According to my handy dandy Haynes manual things to check;

1. Fuel tank empty- Negative, 5 gallons of premium are in it. Enough?
2. Bad battery- Negative, brad new battery, all electrical is working... well except the back window that rolled DOWN but WON'T roll up...
3. Distributor components- Negative, replaced today.
4. Water in fuel- Negative.
5. Spark plugs- Negative

Things still to diagnose;

6. Fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump? Haven't looked into any of this and will need a FSM to do so (which seems to have vanished from the interwebz)
7. Choke not operating properly (see above, need FSM to diagnose).
8. Low cylinder compression- ?????
9. Valve clearance- ????
10. Defective IC ignition unti (FSM needed)
11. Clogged carburetor
12. Starting circuit wires- (FSM needed)
13. Timing belt/chain
14. Loose distributor- (changed today, but does that matter?)

So.... here's what it sounds like.


Any thoughts by 4Runner, and 3vz-e experts.
 
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Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Messages
790
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Oh, and for the love of the MUD brotherhood, if anyone has an FSM for me I shall reward you handsomely.

I've searched high and low only to find dead links at every turn or websites that scream VIRUS.
 

2ndGenToyotaFan

Just spend all the money.....
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Well.... At least it doesn't have a red interior! :D

It looks like a decent truck for 750. I would check for spark and gas at the engine (you can crack the fuel line at the cold start injector to see if you're getting fuel)

I can't believe they were still doing that beige in 89!! Hahaha!
 
Joined
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Well.... At least it doesn't have a red interior! :D

It looks like a decent truck for 750. I would check for spark and gas at the engine (you can crack the fuel line at the cold start injector to see if you're getting fuel)

I can't believe they were still doing that beige in 89!! Hahaha!

Agreed, red interior would have been a deal breaker.

And wife wants the rig painted....It's her find so I'll probably make it happen at some point. But first there are a bazillion other things I need to work on like getting rid of the 5 wasp nests that I've found so far!!!!!

I'll check the fuel line at the CSI tomorrow! Thanks for all the info.
 
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This ain't right. Never had a carburetor. Pic of what's under the hood please.
Yup, fully aware. I was wondering if someone was going read that with as quizzical of a look as i did when I read it in the Haney manual.

My thought was? "At I truly this clueless or did the editor miss something?" But then upon closer inspection it's because the manual covers 1979- 1992 (not even sure how that's possible)

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KLF

Frame waxer
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Check the fuel pump. Unbend a paperclip, stick it across the B+ and Fp contacts in the diagnostic connector, the one behind the fuse box under the hood, behind the battery. Turn the key to ON (but not start). Go to back of the truck and listen. You should hear the pump running. You can also hear it from inside if you flip up the passenger side rear seat bottom.

If you hear it running, see if it starts. If it does, then it is probably the Circuit Opening Relay, behind the pass side kick panel.

There is no choke on an EFI truck, which 4Runners have had since 1985.
 

KLF

Frame waxer
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Based on the video, your engine is "turning over", but not starting.

Also, make sure the distributor is turning. Broken timing belt?
 
Joined
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Messages
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Based on the video, your engine is "turning over", but not starting.

Also, make sure the distributor is turning. Broken timing belt?
Checking this ASAP.

Seems like an easy check, remove cap, turn key. Rotor not spinning might mean belt related.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Rotor spins, thank goodness. But no noise from fuel pump after connecting paper clip to B+ and Fp.

Removed hatch under passenger side back seat to make sure. Sure enough, not a peep from the fuel pump, not so much as a click.

On the plus side I think I'm up to the removal of 7 wasp nests at this point. GTF outta here wasps!!!!!!

One of many. This came out of the drain below the windshield.




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KLF

Frame waxer
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Now that is impressive.

Funny, I just had my cowl cover off today too. I was shocked at the amount of crap, leaves, dirt, pine needles, etc had collected under there.

Sometimes the fuel pump will stick if it's been sitting for too long (happened to me when I put mine back together). The impeller is very tight tolerance in the pump body, so even a tiny spec of dirt or a little bit of dried gas lacquer will jamb it so it can't start. Before you buy a new one, pull it out, disconnect the intake sock, reach in with a pick and spin the impeller a little, then try it again. Might free it up, mine's been fine ever since. They're not cheap.
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Messages
790
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Now that is impressive.
Sometimes the fuel pump will stick if it's been sitting for too long (happened to me when I put mine back together). The impeller is very tight tolerance in the pump body, so even a tiny spec of dirt or a little bit of dried gas lacquer will jamb it so it can't start. Before you buy a new one, pull it out, disconnect the intake sock, reach in with a pick and spin the impeller a little, then try it again. Might free it up, mine's been fine ever since. They're not cheap.
I'll do it tomorrow.

I'm not exactly sure about everything you said, but I'll at least get it out and see what I'm working with.

Bees nests... its a miracle I didn't get stung. I had to have killed at least a hundred of them. Oh, and PB Blaster kills them as quick as wasp spray.
 
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Now that is impressive.

Funny, I just had my cowl cover off today too. I was shocked at the amount of crap, leaves, dirt, pine needles, etc had collected under there.

Sometimes the fuel pump will stick if it's been sitting for too long (happened to me when I put mine back together). The impeller is very tight tolerance in the pump body, so even a tiny spec of dirt or a little bit of dried gas lacquer will jamb it so it can't start. Before you buy a new one, pull it out, disconnect the intake sock, reach in with a pick and spin the impeller a little, then try it again. Might free it up, mine's been fine ever since. They're not cheap.

Same here. I have mesquite trees with tons of pollen and tiny leaves. I cover my vents with a towel when I park during the really messy times of the year. I did booty fab an extension on the shop vac to help clean it out.n
 
Joined
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Messages
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Great deal for $750. I might be able to point you to the 88 FSM if that helps you at all.
Thanks for the offer brother. @2ndGenToyotaFan hooked me up and the process has begun!!!!!

Since it would appear that the fuel pump is bad the FSM is telling me to check;

1. fusible links
2. fuses (EFI, 15a- IGN7.5a
3. EFI relay
4. COR
5. Fuel pump

Let the games begin!!!!!
 
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Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Messages
790
Location
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Now that is impressive.

Funny, I just had my cowl cover off today too. I was shocked at the amount of crap, leaves, dirt, pine needles, etc had collected under there.

Sometimes the fuel pump will stick if it's been sitting for too long (happened to me when I put mine back together). The impeller is very tight tolerance in the pump body, so even a tiny spec of dirt or a little bit of dried gas lacquer will jamb it so it can't start. Before you buy a new one, pull it out, disconnect the intake sock, reach in with a pick and spin the impeller a little, then try it again. Might free it up, mine's been fine ever since. They're not cheap.
Ok, pump removed, sock removed, impeller spun. Should it spin fairly freely? Mine seem to require some force to spin it with the pick. Is there any to test without reinstalling? Or just give it the old college try and get it back in the rig?

Oh, and does everyone else's gas tank look like this on the inside? Need cleaning? I figure if I'm going to drop it, now's the time. I'd certainly be game for doing what @bryan89 did if this is what his gas tank looked like beforehand.

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