2ndGenToyotaFan
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That tank looks pretty good to me.... I would not worry about it.
Another 1st Gen 4Runner Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mervo
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- 1st gen 4runner 3vze 4runner
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Yours is so clean compared to mine, I would consider eating off the inside of your tank.
Down here in the south the humidity will ruin anything...
However, the coating kit is so cheap that while you have it out, its almost dumb not to treat it.
Down here in the south the humidity will ruin anything...
However, the coating kit is so cheap that while you have it out, its almost dumb not to treat it.
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok, new fuel pump installed, screws anti-seized, new gaskets, pump, and everything else that Bryan's thread outlines.
Upon turning ignition to 'start' I still don't here the pump.....
BUT using the paper clip jumper fuel pump pressurized, pumps but still no start.
I followed FSM but I gotta be missing a short to the pump somewhere and something else.
Thoughts?
Upon turning ignition to 'start' I still don't here the pump.....
BUT using the paper clip jumper fuel pump pressurized, pumps but still no start.
I followed FSM but I gotta be missing a short to the pump somewhere and something else.
Thoughts?
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The fact that you are getting fuel with the test connector shorted, and it still won't start, says it's not a fuel issue. Look someplace else. Have you tried pulling codes?
- Thread starter
- #25
Looks like code 51, although it rapidly blinks in the 'On' position. I tried resetting the EFI fuse (remove for 30) and I still get the incredibly rapid blink with no break. HOWEVER, if I attempt to start, engine turns, code 51 flashes, 5 rapid blinks, pause, 1 blink, 4.5 sec later it repeats.
According to code 51 it could be the following;
51 Switch signal -A/C switch ON during diagnosis Wiring, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, ECM
51 Switch signal -closed throttle position (CTP) switch OFF during diagnosis Wiring, CTP switch, ECM
51 Switch signal -park/neutra! position (PNP) switch not in P or N during diagnosis Wiring, PNP switch, ECM
I suppose I'm going to start trouble shooting the CTP....
According to code 51 it could be the following;
51 Switch signal -A/C switch ON during diagnosis Wiring, A/C switch, A/C amplifier, ECM
51 Switch signal -closed throttle position (CTP) switch OFF during diagnosis Wiring, CTP switch, ECM
51 Switch signal -park/neutra! position (PNP) switch not in P or N during diagnosis Wiring, PNP switch, ECM
I suppose I'm going to start trouble shooting the CTP....
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Checking the neutral start switch is pretty easy. Disconnect from transmission. Jumper.
- Thread starter
- #27
Not exactly sure of how to do that...but I'll find out. My google-fu is strong!!!
- Thread starter
- #28
Well, it was none of the above..... shocking I know.
Apparently in my haste when I was installing the new distributor cap and rotor I must have knocked the ignition coil wire off when putting the cap cover back on..... I know what you're thinking... wtf... yes, that was my problem.
But at any rate, here's the engine running. What's with the knocking? Drove it around the block, seems extremely sluggish but never stalled. Sat for 10 minutes in the driveway, never stalled.
How's it sound?
Apparently in my haste when I was installing the new distributor cap and rotor I must have knocked the ignition coil wire off when putting the cap cover back on..... I know what you're thinking... wtf... yes, that was my problem.
But at any rate, here's the engine running. What's with the knocking? Drove it around the block, seems extremely sluggish but never stalled. Sat for 10 minutes in the driveway, never stalled.
How's it sound?
2ndGenToyotaFan
Moderator
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It's a little hard to tell, but it sounds like valve noise to me... Hook up a timing light and see if the noise is in time with the light, or faster. If in time, then probably valvetrain, if faster, then probably piston/crank related.
At least it's running! And bumping a wire off is not the dumbest thing I've done.....
At least it's running! And bumping a wire off is not the dumbest thing I've done.....
- Thread starter
- #30
It's a little hard to tell, but it sounds like valve noise to me... Hook up a timing light and see if the noise is in time with the light, or faster. If in time, then probably valvetrain, if faster, then probably piston/crank related.
At least it's running! And bumping a wire off is not the dumbest thing I've done.....
Ah, good call. I'm on it.
Got it cleaned up, vacuumed, washed, waxed and top removed.
Wife ran tail-gunner in the 80 in case things went south.
- Thread starter
- #31
Previous owner told me the rig had a bad transmission due to the shifter having more play than a hooker on Halloween.
Seemed like shifter bushings after looking on MUD and yotatech and from everyone's feedback I was guessing 1.5 banana job....
Took me 3.0 hours but I spent 1.5 hours trying to find the shifter rod pin which I'll now have to replace..... It fell in the black hole vortex while trying to reinstall never to be seen again.
(got a nut temporarily in place just to hold the position, I won't drive it until I replace it)
Overall, pretty easy job. I knew nothing about any of these components and I was able to fumble my way through it using this thread.
Loose Auto Shifter Fix - YotaTech Forums
On to the pics.
Might as well clean up while your in there.
Out and ready to remove the rubber boot. Be sure to remove the little aluminum bushings from each rubber grommet hole BEFORE you try to pry it off. In the pic below you can still see the bushings in each grommet hole.
What's left of the original bushings. NOTHING. NOT A SCRAP.
Bushings installed and ready for reassembly. Right side not pushed in just to show the size.
After that put it all back together and your shifter is back to factory feel!!
Seemed like shifter bushings after looking on MUD and yotatech and from everyone's feedback I was guessing 1.5 banana job....
Took me 3.0 hours but I spent 1.5 hours trying to find the shifter rod pin which I'll now have to replace..... It fell in the black hole vortex while trying to reinstall never to be seen again.
(got a nut temporarily in place just to hold the position, I won't drive it until I replace it)
Overall, pretty easy job. I knew nothing about any of these components and I was able to fumble my way through it using this thread.
Loose Auto Shifter Fix - YotaTech Forums
On to the pics.
Might as well clean up while your in there.
Out and ready to remove the rubber boot. Be sure to remove the little aluminum bushings from each rubber grommet hole BEFORE you try to pry it off. In the pic below you can still see the bushings in each grommet hole.
What's left of the original bushings. NOTHING. NOT A SCRAP.
Bushings installed and ready for reassembly. Right side not pushed in just to show the size.
After that put it all back together and your shifter is back to factory feel!!
