A little here, a little there. 72 FJ55

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Jan 23, 2022
Spokane WA
So while I'm waiting for this thing to sell or trade I'm going to work to make it reliable, fix a few things and maybe to some body work. Why? Because it is fun to drive and the Wife does not care for it so the more I do the more somebody might be inclined to make an offer. So follow along if you like or don't if you don't either way here goes the cold water!

First thing first, if you have an FJ55 you gotta have a working back window, even if nothing else is working right, right? So today I pulled my rear window regulator out for the second time to measure the gear so that I know how far to scale up the stl file so I can print me a new gear and to make some other minor repairs.

The gear is slightly chewed up and cracked, I know that'll buff out. The I guess guide pins for the widow rail are broken off and somebody did some janky stuff with the regulator. The pins are easy enough. Clean up the rust reinsert and then hit them from inside the channel with the tig torch. Now the regulator, I'm going to need some help from the community to figure out what exactly somebody was thinking and what that linkage does that somebody cobbled up with some wire and a spring. I didn't get a pic but the terminal board is toast. For that I may Buy a small phenolic sheet and some rivets, salvage the terminals and make a new one.
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So today I fired up the ol' 3D printer and the welder. The guide pins are back on the rear window channel. The tig welder was a bad idea. After making a mess with the tig welder I switched over to the mig and then cleaned up my butchery.

She's not pretty but she's solid.
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And on to the gear! For anyone wanting to print out the gear the diameter is 50.9524 mm. I just rounded up to 51 mm in the slicer. I printed the test gear in PLA and I'm going to print the actual gear in nylon. The tooth engagement looks good. The gear is a little loose on the shaft, nothing a little epoxy won't fix.


I'm going to need some help from the community to figure out what exactly somebody was thinking and what that linkage does that somebody cobbled up with some wire and a spring.
I was just fixing mine a couple days ago, fortunately was able to find a good used window channel.
The stock connection between window channel and the regulator arms is weird, you need the C-channels that the end of the arms ride in, the slide-in keeper thingies and the clips that are supposed to be attached to the bottom of the window channel. Right side and left are different.
Pics from today because stuff stays in the back of my Pig for a while...



Other than the pins all of that is intact. I think what I am missing is the rod that stops the tail gate latch from working when the window is up.
OK new gear is printed, and a comparison between the original and the PLA. I used PCTPE made by Taulman3D. It is some kind of nylon mix, it's got nylon and some type of thermoplastic. It's supposed to have the best properties of the two ingredients, kinda like a Labradoodle, only it's not it's a gear and it's not made of a Labrador and a Poodle, ok I guess it's not like a labradoodle. I had a lot of stringing so my settings were not quite right so a little clean up is needed. I may just adjust the settings and print another gear and see if I can get better results.
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A few years back there were metal gears being made, I ordered one. Did those become unobtanium?
It seems like a place where a gear made of steel will save you from future headaches.
A few years back there were metal gears being made, I ordered one. Did those become unobtanium?
It seems like a place where a gear made of steel will save you from future headaches.
I have seen and heard of such an animal and they were a good idea 20 years ago but with rear window parts hard to come by a nylon gear makes a good fuseable link. The nylon gear, tailgate switch and circuit breaker are probably more important now then in the past. Finding good window regulators parts after your current regulator eats its self does not sound like a good time to me. Also I can print them out as needed.
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So print number three it is! I had to play with the settings on my printer and the material I'm using does not machine very well but it does hold up well to attacks from files and sand paper. The down side is the print has to be almost perfect, which it is not but it is good enough and runs ok in dry testing. Some more cleaning, some judicious lubing and the window is back in and working!:bounce:

Now on to the Carb!
Looks like you figured things out, but we do have some resources in here for you...

We have the gear design on file for order, and we have a great thread that describes the rear window in great detail.
Yes, I got it all figure out. I made it through one or two pages of the thread and realized that the rear widow regulator was not rocket science. I was a bit worried some made it sound like the boogeyman was hiding in the rear tail gate and that regulator was made out of moon rocks and the wiring was stolen alien technology. I've been a professional mechanic in one form or another since 1993 and Toyota was never one to play stump the chump especially with the early land cruisers. They designed these thing to be fixed in the back country with sticks and shoe laces, much to the detriment of future owners. I like that this forum, makes it easy to find things and that all the veteran land cruiser owners don't send the newbie on the hunt by berating them and telling them that that dead horse has been beat so use the search. I did find the gear under a creative commons license and that can be hit or miss sometimes but it worked out.
OK, time to get the carb sorted. This 55 had an aftermarket carb for a 2f when I bought it and it ran horrible. The PO had somebody "rebuild" the original carb and when he couldn't get it to work swapped in the Chinese 2f carb knock off. Lucky for me he kept the original carb, at least most of it. I put the carb back on, it had stalling issues from the start. PO cleaned the tank and lined it with Red-Kote but there was still some schmutz in the lines that made it into the carb and was clogging the jets and accel pump. I finally got the chance to pull the carb and look it over. I only found two things, first the pump discharge check ball and weight were installed upside down and the high speed stop lever is gone. I put the pump discharge check ball and weight back in correctly and checked the rest of the carb over for excess wear. Some of it was excess of what the manual specified but no too far out. Put the carb back in and what do know my vacuum gauge was at work. Fired it up and it actually started a lot easier than it has since I brought it home. I adjusted the idle to around 600 and played with the idle mixture by rpm and ear, no substitute for a vacuum gauge but it'll work in a pinch. As the engine warmed up the idle dropped to 400-450. I bumped the idle back up to 600. The idle dropping as it warmed up has me concerned but it no longer stalls when I step on the brakes. Next up it to adjust the valves and figure out the timing. The timing is going to be tricky since I put in an hei dizzy and I don't have a good way to map the mechanical and vacuum advance curve and if I did I don't have a good stock dizzy to base line off of.

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