8x Series V8 Swaps (9 Viewers)

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Nice! That's pretty reasonable.
I've been looking for a checklist for the fj80 ls swap?.. Part numbers and such? I've got a handful of items sorted out but I'm sure there's something I'm missing. Does anyone in here know of any such genaral checklist that pertains to the fj80 ls swap?
I know my build will end up being different as I'm interested in using an Atlas 2-speed transfer case instead of the Toyota. Also converting the front axle to selectable hubs.
I don't think there's a list of part numbers, but you can find a lot by reading this thread and other swap threads. You will miss some things but they'll become obvious as you do it.
 
I need to know how!
Be a cheap ba$tard. There are more professional swaps on here that
and they deserve their respect. I just needed a new drivetrain was limited on budget, and had less than a summer to do it. I spent the time researching ahead of time finding the cheapest but still decent way of doing things. Also learned from others mistakes as much as possible but regardless still made my own. I was able to save on big things like waiting for the right ls combo to come on Craigslist and finding a cheap guy to modify the stock harness and program the pcm. I also have a junkyard in my town which I visited frequently. I also went cheap on things like the exhaust and I was able to make my own brackets for everything.
 
Wont the atlas put your driveshaft in the middle? Are you going to do a custom rear axle or just run the driveshaft at an angle?
I would also be interested in some sort of a list if anyone has one.
Yes you are correct the atlas will put the driveshaft at a slight angle. I'm interested in the possibility of upgrading to a different rear axle in the future. This is my fishing rig and I don't expect to daily drive it. We'll see :) I will have to make a new main tank because the center output will interfere with the front inside corner of the main tank. Then I will be adding an AUX tank and transfer pump after the engine is running and the drivetrain is functioning.. No problem doing that.
Yeah copy that on the list. Hopefully someone has something lying around of substance.
 
Just eating through a big mud hole in low range. Either the input shaft or pump went out. I think it's the pump. Would just need to pull a cooler line to find out. It's a built tranny as of last summer.

IMG806535624.jpg
 
Just eating through a big mud hole in low range. Either the input shaft or pump went out. I think it's the pump. Would just need to pull a cooler line to find out. It's a built tranny as of last summer.

View attachment 2097636
Did you extend the transmission vent? Otherwise you may have gotten a ton of muddy water in the transmission.
 
Did you extend the transmission vent? Otherwise you may have gotten a ton of muddy water in the transmission.
Vent is at top of firewall. No water in fluid. There are some sparkles in the fluid though lol
 
Ok, so having some trouble getting things to fit. I have a Gen3 5.3L LS engine, 4L60 transmission, Marks adaptor, HF2 transfer case. Trying to make it fit in my 93 FZJ80.

I have the transmission crossmember bolted up to the adaptor. Got a passenger side bolt into the crossmember ok, but had to pry, and shift, and curse to get one in the driver's side.

But now that I did, it's clear the engine isn't where it needs to be. It's hard against the firewall (actually the AC line) on the passenger side.
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And the front of the engine is way to far to the driver's side.

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And I still can't get most of the bolts into the crossmember.

Any idea what's going on? I thought bolting up the crossmember would pretty much put the engine where it needs to be.
 
Ok, so having some trouble getting things to fit. I have a Gen3 5.3L LS engine, 4L60 transmission, Marks adaptor, HF2 transfer case. Trying to make it fit in my 93 FZJ80.

I have the transmission crossmember bolted up to the adaptor. Got a passenger side bolt into the crossmember ok, but had to pry, and shift, and curse to get one in the driver's side.

But now that I did, it's clear the engine isn't where it needs to be. It's hard against the firewall (actually the AC line) on the passenger side.
View attachment 2106707

And the front of the engine is way to far to the driver's side.

View attachment 2106714View attachment 2106717View attachment 2106718

And I still can't get most of the bolts into the crossmember.

Any idea what's going on? I thought bolting up the crossmember would pretty much put the engine where it needs to be.

I slotted the two crossmember bolts 1/2” toward the front get a little more room between the heads and crossmember.

Also ditched that section of AC hard line and came straight out of the firewall with the new one.
 
I slotted the two crossmember bolts 1/2” toward the front get a little more room between the heads and crossmember.

Also ditched that section of AC hard line and came straight out of the firewall with the new one.
I also deleted that hard line.
 
may seem stupid, BUT can someone do a hill climb test for me and log it on hp tuners or EFI live....... Im running into fueling issues on longer climbs, I want to see if anyone else has their Injector Duty Cycle climb but AFR drop, this is a real anamoly more fuel vapor makes the wideband read richer.....

Im likely ordering a surge tank setup, I know im running more power than the average joe so perhaps its just a combination of things, but im curious IF this is a common issue, our fuel tank does have baffles but no fuel bowl so curious on that aspect

im in prep for hotter longer wheeling
 
may seem stupid, BUT can someone do a hill climb test for me and log it on hp tuners or EFI live....... Im running into fueling issues on longer climbs, I want to see if anyone else has their Injector Duty Cycle climb but AFR drop, this is a real anamoly more fuel vapor makes the wideband read richer.....

Im likely ordering a surge tank setup, I know im running more power than the average joe so perhaps its just a combination of things, but im curious IF this is a common issue, our fuel tank does have baffles but no fuel bowl so curious on that aspect

im in prep for hotter longer wheeling
What motor and fuel pump are you running?
 
What motor and fuel pump are you running?

Fully built alluminum 6.0 with flat top Mahle pistons around 11.5CR, ported and polished 6.2 heads, ls3 manifold, ls9 injectors (this is where we get the estimated HP based off duty cycle), I am running a bigger cam with a stall around 3200 ish lol

Fuel pump is an aeromotive 340 lph in tank, I do have a second inside the thank aswell,just not wired or plumbed, Ill likely be chaning my entire fuel system this winter anyways. i did order a perfomace world surge tank setup to avoid and a fuel pressure sensor to monitor closer
 
Anyone have experience with a LM4 engine? Found a crate motor for a good price. All aluminum.

My concern is if anyone knows of potential problems on swap. Looks like oil pan has hole in it for driveshaft to pass through, but found a few threads that say that other pans will fit on it. Wiring harness sounds like it may be slightly different....


ModelYears Produced
Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT2003–2005
Isuzu Ascender2003–2004
GMC Envoy XL2003-2004
Chevrolet SSR2003–2004
Buick Rainier2004

LM4
The LM4 was introduced in 2003 as a lightweight version of the LM7. It was available in GM SUVs until 2005. The LM4 was also known as the Vortec 5300.

L33
The L33 was introduced in 2005 as the "High Performance" 5.3L engine. It was only available in the 1/2 ton, 4WD, extended cab Silverado and Sierra until 2007. The L33 was known as the Vortec 5300 H.O.
 
Think @cruisermatt has that engine in his 62 might be the lm7 as far as the pan goes don't worry about it need a different pan anyway would like to see a pic of the hole for the drive shaft also need to redo tbe wiring harness or get an aftermarket one for the swap.
Tommy
 
@2fpower @tmxmotorsports Mine is a L33. Functionally there is no difference between any of the Gen 3 truck motors as far as wiring. Any pan fits any motor they are all modular.
 

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