8x Series V8 Swaps (13 Viewers)

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One of the 80’s is the one OGBeno procured parts for Boltripper’s build mentioned earlier in the thread . I think it was the last one SLEE built and the build was over the top ! The builder and OGBeno are too modest it’s truly amazing!
 
Hey guys Im looking into LS swapping my 1995 Land cruiser and this will be my first engine swap, is there a thread on this forum that specifically talks about LS swaps with the 80 series?
The fist page of this thread has some builds listed. Several guys including myself have build threads linked in they're sig at the bottom of each post.
 
Hey guys Im looking into LS swapping my 1995 Land cruiser and this will be my first engine swap, is there a thread on this forum that specifically talks about LS swaps with the 80 series?
Go here and read this:


Another member sent this to me.
 
Well probably stripped my marks adapter. What torque did y’all use to mount the t-case to marks adapter. Guess I should’ve just snugged it up. I’m embarrassed to tell you want torque I tried. But let’s say 27 foot pounds is too much. Figure if it was good enough for the t-case assembly it would be good to mount it.
 
Well probably stripped my marks adapter. What torque did y’all use to mount the t-case to marks adapter. Guess I should’ve just snugged it up. I’m embarrassed to tell you want torque I tried. But let’s say 27 foot pounds is too much. Figure if it was good enough for the t-case assembly it would be good to mount it.

I helicoil all of them adapter threads before assembly now. You aren’t alone.
 
I helicoil all of them adapter threads before assembly now. You aren’t alone.
Yeah. There is a lot of lessons learned in this thread. Similar to the suspension thread sticky, we should start a common gotchas LS swap thread, bullet list to watch out for. Just a recommendation for the group if a moderator would start it. Helicoil Marks Adapter is on it for sure.

Now it’s going to eat at me and of course it’s the top middle, the one you really can’t do without taking it out. I think I will take the t-case back out once I get the driveline set. I was able to mount the rear drive shaft. But the fwd one wouldn’t slide in, the little cup that fits in fwd drive flange just barely catches. So I’ve got some wiggling to do. I was surprised it didn’t just go in, considering the marks adapter was supposed to put the t- case about in the same spot. I am using land cruiser shop engine mounts and transmission cross member support. Probably just need some massaging! Not sure if jacking up the front end or anything will help.
 
Yeah. There is a lot of lessons learned in this thread. Similar to the suspension thread sticky, we should start a common gotchas LS swap thread, bullet list to watch out for. Just a recommendation for the group if a moderator would start it. Helicoil Marks Adapter is on it for sure.

Now it’s going to eat at me and of course it’s the top middle, the one you really can’t do without taking it out. I think I will take the t-case back out once I get the driveline set. I was able to mount the rear drive shaft. But the fwd one wouldn’t slide in, the little cup that fits in fwd drive flange just barely catches. So I’ve got some wiggling to do. I was surprised it didn’t just go in, considering the marks adapter was supposed to put the t- case about in the same spot. I am using land cruiser shop engine mounts and transmission cross member support. Probably just need some massaging! Not sure if jacking up the front end or anything will help.
I may be wrong, but there might have been acouple different T-cases during the 80 series production run. I recall some folks perplexed with the positioning of the shifter knob. I suspected the Marks adapter was suited for only one of the possible T-cases. (But I could be wrong)
 
Yeah. There is a lot of lessons learned in this thread. Similar to the suspension thread sticky, we should start a common gotchas LS swap thread, bullet list to watch out for. Just a recommendation for the group if a moderator would start it. Helicoil Marks Adapter is on it for sure.

Now it’s going to eat at me and of course it’s the top middle, the one you really can’t do without taking it out. I think I will take the t-case back out once I get the driveline set. I was able to mount the rear drive shaft. But the fwd one wouldn’t slide in, the little cup that fits in fwd drive flange just barely catches. So I’ve got some wiggling to do. I was surprised it didn’t just go in, considering the marks adapter was supposed to put the t- case about in the same spot. I am using land cruiser shop engine mounts and transmission cross member support. Probably just need some massaging! Not sure if jacking up the front end or anything will help.
Good to know, I would be in favor of that sticky
 
Good to know, I would be in favor of that sticky
Stick Gotcha's
1. Tap and helical the bolt holes on marks adapter that the T-case bolts to.
2. Selkirk aka Land Cruiser shop engine mounts w/ 4L80 will require drive shaft modification.
3. Marks adapter does not line up the Hi/Lo shifter mounts.
4. Get a dakota digital box for tach and PRND light and Neutral Safety Switch integration.

Add to the sticky - My poor assumption that using a marks adapter, since the transmission mounts to what I thought was about the same locations. I now need to get my driveshafts lengthened in the rear and shortened in the front.

So, I went with Land cruiser shop's aka Selkirk's engine mount and transmission crossmember. I incorrectly assumed this combo with a marks adapter was placing the t-case about in the stock location. That is not the case, I spoke with them on the phone, their mounts are made for ease of engine installation, which is 100% correct, stock GM truck accessories fit fine, no issues stock a/c, power steering etc.

This is not a knock on Selkirk engine mounts, I think they worked perfectly, every modification is most likely going to have a give and take. For me I wanted bolt on accessories, as I do not have a welder or welding skills. The idea of grinding off the old engine mounts and welding new ones, didn't seem like something I wanted to tackle. Trying to center or place a motor in from scratch, seemed a bit pass my experience level. I know everyone has an opinion on how to do these swaps. My only point is to make this aware for anyone else weighing their options. Selkirk referred me to Tom Woods 4x4 drive shafts for replacements. Not sure if I will go with new ones, or see if there are actually any driveshaft shops still in business. Joke is on me for thinking I was down to wiring and knuckle re-build!
 
Stick Gotcha's
1. Tap and helical the bolt holes on marks adapter that the T-case bolts to.
2. Selkirk aka Land Cruiser shop engine mounts w/ 4L80 will require drive shaft modification.
3. Marks adapter does not line up the Hi/Lo shifter mounts.
4. Get a dakota digital box for tach and PRND light and Neutral Safety Switch integration.

Add to the sticky - My poor assumption that using a marks adapter, since the transmission mounts to what I thought was about the same locations. I now need to get my driveshafts lengthened in the rear and shortened in the front.

So, I went with Land cruiser shop's aka Selkirk's engine mount and transmission crossmember. I incorrectly assumed this combo with a marks adapter was placing the t-case about in the stock location. That is not the case, I spoke with them on the phone, their mounts are made for ease of engine installation, which is 100% correct, stock GM truck accessories fit fine, no issues stock a/c, power steering etc.

This is not a knock on Selkirk engine mounts, I think they worked perfectly, every modification is most likely going to have a give and take. For me I wanted bolt on accessories, as I do not have a welder or welding skills. The idea of grinding off the old engine mounts and welding new ones, didn't seem like something I wanted to tackle. Trying to center or place a motor in from scratch, seemed a bit pass my experience level. I know everyone has an opinion on how to do these swaps. My only point is to make this aware for anyone else weighing their options. Selkirk referred me to Tom Woods 4x4 drive shafts for replacements. Not sure if I will go with new ones, or see if there are actually any driveshaft shops still in business. Joke is on me for thinking I was down to wiring and knuckle re-build!
The stock ac compressor fit? Passenger side below the exhaust manifolds?
 
The stock ac compressor fit? Passenger side below the exhaust manifolds?
Yes, all stock 6.0 LQ4 truck accessories fit. I can get some pics if you'd like. I am using the summit hugger headers. That's the only aftermarket engine component. Also I put on a 5.3L power steering pump that doesn't have the 3rd hose for boosted steering.
 
Here ya go. Power steering pump isn’t installed. Pulled original off for one off a 5.3L.

A0C4D67F-8B4E-40AD-8A30-C48BDF295346.jpeg


0244BF14-F0C0-46E7-924D-77EDD6F264F2.jpeg
 
The compressor fits but do the ac fittings clear
Not stock from a 2500 HD at least, I will get some fittings that come straight up which are very common with after market a/c mods. Have to get the lines modified anyway to match the toyota bulkhead fitting. Great news on the drive shaft, actually paid off to live in a rural area with lots of HD farm equipment. There is a great driveline shop, showed them what a I got and said easy as pie! I hesitantly asked for a ball park price, he said 350-450. With new bearings, I laughed and said Tom Woods wants 500 apiece! He laughed and said, I hear that all the time, said he has no idea why he sells them for so much, not like his steel is any different! So he will shorten my fwd drive shaft and make basically a new one for the rear. Only issue is I have to get my new springs now to measure accurately. So now the big debate of which springs to go with!!
 
Not stock from a 2500 HD at least, I will get some fittings that come straight up which are very common with after market a/c mods. Have to get the lines modified anyway to match the toyota bulkhead fitting. Great news on the drive shaft, actually paid off to live in a rural area with lots of HD farm equipment. There is a great driveline shop, showed them what a I got and said easy as pie! I hesitantly asked for a ball park price, he said 350-450. With new bearings, I laughed and said Tom Woods wants 500 apiece! He laughed and said, I hear that all the time, said he has no idea why he sells them for so much, not like his steel is any different! So he will shorten my fwd drive shaft and make basically a new one for the rear. Only issue is I have to get my new springs now to measure accurately. So now the big debate of which springs to go with!!
That's what I was referring to is the after market ac fittings..
 
You will need an AC manifold of some sort. I use these from Hawk Motorsport. They have two types, essentially on puts the ports forward, the other puts the ports rearward. Both photos of the same piece.

93826826_3173266596037543_737863995494498304_n.jpg

94192411_3173266506037552_797402326800269312_n.jpg
 
So, I went with Land cruiser shop's aka Selkirk's engine mount and transmission crossmember. I incorrectly assumed this combo with a marks adapter was placing the t-case about in the stock location. That is not the case, I spoke with them on the phone, their mounts are made for ease of engine installation, which is 100% correct, stock GM truck accessories fit fine, no issues stock a/c, power steering etc.

This is not a knock on Selkirk engine mounts, I think they worked perfectly, every modification is most likely going to have a give and take. For me I wanted bolt on accessories, as I do not have a welder or welding skills. The idea of grinding off the old engine mounts and welding new ones, didn't seem like something I wanted to tackle. Trying to center or place a motor in from scratch, seemed a bit pass my experience level. I know everyone has an opinion on how to do these swaps. My only point is to make this aware for anyone else weighing their options. Selkirk referred me to Tom Woods 4x4 drive shafts for replacements. Not sure if I will go with new ones, or see if there are actually any driveshaft shops still in business. Joke is on me for thinking I was down to wiring and knuckle re-build!
Interesting.
I got one of the first sets of motor mounts (before they became Selkirk) and everything fit perfectly.
I did not use the crossmember. I don't think it was available in 2020. I run a Iron Pig crossmember.
 
Interesting.
I got one of the first sets of motor mounts (before they became Selkirk) and everything fit perfectly.
I did not use the crossmember. I don't think it was available in 2020. I run an Iron Pig crossmember.
I used a 4L80e from a 4WD host. Only takes a few inches of transmission difference to throw off the driveshafts. Who knows.
 
From a few posts back, looking to get the cruise control set up, for DBC, (drive by cable). Looking at the wiring diagram, looks like I don't have to do anything wiring side? Just get the cable rigged properly. I do see two wires that went to the trans eco for o/d and ect, will the be an issue? Saw the posts on DBW, but non on DBC, hoping that is because it just works!!
 

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