80 series Slinky/ICON Long Travel Suspension officially coming to the U.S.A. (1 Viewer)

[dirtyboots]

All good things to say about this kit, and communication with Justin. Something to consider if your getting 75mm, and running 37s, Redline has pre cut plates to move the frame side control arm mount holes forward. In addition to that I moved the rear axle back 10mm using the often discussed rear control arm tube sleeve mod. Even with 315s the wheelbase extension is quite worthy of some high quality mall parking lot photo ops.

 

[dogfishlake]

While I don't have a slinky kit, I have kept up with the threads from the start and have read all I can about @AutoCraft Aus Darren and I have to say, he has put an insane amount of time and effort into this suspension set up. It is a lot of money, mostly because of the shocks, but that is kind of how it goes in the shock world. The slinky spring concept is genius and I know it works. There are many jumping on this technology and more similar kits will emerge, and that is how it goes, I suppose. I have a very good Slee spring/shock set up and it has far less travel than the slinky kit.

 

[baldilocks]

I installed Dobinson 3" tapered coils a
Couple months ago. They ride great everywhere and stand 23.5" tall free height. I can tell you guys this; the front radius, arms, with new oem bushings won't come close to using that much spring as per Rubicon testing.

The main reason to run a progressive or dual rate spring is ride comfort.

If you want real travel a three link is your ticket.

 

[1973Guppie]

I installed Dobinson 3" tapered coils a
Couple months ago. They ride great everywhere and stand 23.5" tall free height. I can tell you guys this; the front radius, arms, with new oem bushings won't come close to using that much spring as per Rubicon testing revealed.

The main reason to run a progressive or dual rate spring is ride comfort.

If you want real travel a three link is your ticket.

agree, the only reason I would swap my oem J's out is for ride comfort, do you feel like the on road driveability changed after install of the progressives?

 

[baldilocks]

agree, the only reason I would swap my oem J's out is for ride comfort, do you feel like the on road driveability changed after install of the progressives?

Are you asking if the vehicle leans or sways more when turning? Yes, a little, but I was running stiff OME comp springs before and Slee before that and 850j before that. It's not enough to make a real difference in safety especially when you figure in how much better the 80 rides in all situations. I realized a huge improvement with only front dual rates. I still have the Slee heavy progressives in the rear with OME sport shocks.

 

[1973Guppie]

Are you asking if the vehicle leans or sways more when turning? Yes, a little, but I was running stiff OME comp springs before and Slee before that and 850j before that. It's not enough to make a real difference in safety especially when you figure in how much better the 80 rides in all situations. I realized a huge improvement with only front dual rates. I still have the Slee heavy progressives in the rear with OME sport shocks.

thx, yes that is what I was asking, I just did not want to move to a spring that was unstable in corners and mountain driving. I really like the way my cruiser drives on country roads now. Does not sound like it would change too much with moving from J springs to a progressive spring.

 

[baldilocks]

thx, yes that is what I was asking, I just did not want to move to a spring that was unstable in corners and mountain driving. I really like the way my cruiser drives on country roads now. Does not sound like it would change too much with moving from J springs to a progressive spring.

As far as handling, no, but your ride quality will improve vastly. When my buddy, who is a member here, got Slinky's I thought, ok so you spent money you did not need to but then I drove his 80. It was akin to riding in a caddy. Think of them as two or even three springs in one.

 

[retrofive]

As far as handling, no, but your ride quality will improve vastly. When my buddy, who is a member here, got Slinky's I thought, ok so you spent money you did not need to but then I drove his 80. It was akin to riding in a caddy. Think of them as two or even three springs in one.

This is good to know. I'm sort of in the same position as @1973Guppie . Currently on J's, and honestly have no issues, but one day the grass is greener is going to bite and I will swap them with something, if only for placebo effect.

 

[baldilocks]

This is good to know. I'm sort of in the same position as @1973Guppie . Currently on J's, and honestly have no issues, but one day the grass is greener is going to bite and I will swap them with something, if only for placebo effect.

We are only getting older. LOL. J's get the job done but dual rates and progressives get it done with more class.

 

[Box Rocket]

I was 100% in the same camp. I had been running OME Js and Nitrochargers with no real complaints. After seeing/feeling how the Slinky/icon kit performed I couldn't do the OME stuff anymore. It isn't that the OME kits are terrible, it's just that the Slinky kits are a big step up from them.

 

[BerettaMato]

As of now they are the best upgrade I have made to my rig and cant look back at the OME I had before.

 

[1973Guppie]

This is good to know. I'm sort of in the same position as @1973Guppie . Currently on J's, and honestly have no issues, but one day the grass is greener is going to bite and I will swap them with something, if only for placebo effect.

I am now considering swapping the coils eventually to a progressive or dual rate, not anytime soon, however I just can't get myself to spend the type of $$ needed on a fancy remote reservoir rebuildable shock. Just can't do it. So many other things I want to spend my $$ on. I am not desert racing in the rig. I am a cheap SOB for sure, lol. Not saying it is not worth it just not where I want to spend that type of money. I don't really drive fast on or off road in the cruiser. As far as shock fade, I have never experienced it. I suppose if I do I might make the switch. I wish I could drive a truck with this setup to experience it myself first hand.

 

[alia176]

I am now considering swapping the coils eventually to a progressive or dual rate, not anytime soon, however I just can't get myself to spend the type of $$ needed on a fancy remote reservoir rebuildable shock. Just can't do it. So many other things I want to spend my $$ on. I am not desert racing in the rig. I am a cheap SOB for sure, lol. Not saying it is not worth it just not where I want to spend that type of money. I don't really drive fast on or off road in the cruiser. As far as shock fade, I have never experienced it. I suppose if I do I might make the switch. I wish I could drive a truck with this setup to experience it myself first hand.

I bet lots of folks are in the same boat so don't feel bad amigo!!!

 

[4rings5cyls]

^^^Why not just run single tube 2.0 shocks then?

 

[ericbirk]

I just want to throw this out on the thread so there is some documentation. I am in no way shape or form attempting to discredit Icon as their response to the issue was spot on AND the shocks are great when attached.

'95 FZJ80, J springs, 2.0 Icon shocks. First trip on the shock's and this happened... I was down in Washington when it happened, gave Icon a call and sent them the pictures. I was going to be in Nanaimo 3 days later, and they shipped a new shock out there for me to install.

Still not sure how this could happen as there is no spring load on the shock at full droop. Looked to me like the "stud mount" simply didnt have enough thread engagement as there are 3-4 threads undamaged in the shock body.

Now the positive side. Did the WABDR trail solo, truck at roughly 7,000lbs. She drove fantastic, new shocks are WAY better than the OME's that they replaced.

 

[bryson]

<snip>

Still not sure how this could happen as there is no spring load on the shock at full droop. Looked to me like the "stud mount" simply didnt have enough thread engagement as there are 3-4 threads undamaged in the shock body.
<snip>
View attachment 1523676

Well that's crappy. I agree that it looks like the stud wasn't quite threaded in all the way, but even if there's no spring tension on the shocks at full droop, a heavy axle/wheel/tire all pulling on that stud repeatedly isn't going to end well - even with fully-engaged threads. Shocks aren't typically engineered to be used as droop stops. Looks like limit straps should be in your future!

 

[GeoRoss]

This is good to know. I'm sort of in the same position as @1973Guppie . Currently on J's, and honestly have no issues, but one day the grass is greener is going to bite and I will swap them with something, if only for placebo effect.

Same here, current set up served its purpose. I'm now ready for something that rides a little less jarring around town.

 

[ericbirk]

Well that's crappy. I agree that it looks like the stud wasn't quite threaded in all the way, but even if there's no spring tension on the shocks at full droop, a heavy axle/wheel/tire all pulling on that stud repeatedly isn't going to end well - even with fully-engaged threads. Shocks aren't typically engineered to be used as droop stops. Looks like limit straps should be in your future!

I had that discussion with them when the failure occurred, as I was thinking the same thing. Their response was that I shouldnt have any issue with the current configuration.

 

[HDJdreams]

I get that the Slinky kit rides great, but I wonder has anyone been on a trail where there were rigs with both the ICON and Slinky suspensions? How does the ICON kit ride on the trail compared to the Slinky? Is there anyone with actual experience with both and not just keyboard racing?

Both are "designed for 35s" and both use dual rate set ups.

For comparable shocks, ICON kit runs a $1000 less. The ICON kit is designed for maximum travel with stock bump stops. The Slinky kit extends the bumpers stops to run a slightly longer shock, giving another 1-2" of droop.

Given ICONs reputation, I would have guessed that it would handle speed better than Slinky, but the Slinky guys say that it handles great so I'll take their word for it.

I am looking seriously at both kits. Right now my impression is that they are both similar quality. I want the one that swallow oscillations the best and smooth out the trail as much as possible. Based on the paper specs, I would lean towards ICON. But the Slinky kit keeps getting rave reviews and a cult like following by those that have ridden it. So has anyone experienced both?

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Have never seen a 2.0 pull that pin before, though I have seen 2 slide hammer apart from topping out, so the shock insert pulled before the stud did. Extra length of course helps compared to being short and topping out alot because of it.

Ideally as rule of thumb, minimum 70mm down travel from ride height to protect from "topping out"

I guess any time there is an organic component in assembly on a mass produced item, variables happen.

How they are fixed is super important.