Build 73 FJ40 Refresh

[Engineer8000]

A little better.

 

[Engineer8000]

I'm picking up my jump seat frames from the body shop soon, they are making progress blasting and priming parts. Best I can tell they were pewter or black originally. Pictures I have found look like the bottoms were gray but can't really tell. Can someone verify if pewter is correct for the 73 long jump seats? Thank you in advance.

 

[73FJ40]

I'm picking up my jump seat frames from the body shop soon, they are making progress blasting and priming parts. Best I can tell they were pewter or black originally. Pictures I have found look like the bottoms were gray but can't really tell. Can someone verify if pewter is correct for the 73 long jump seats? Thank you in advance.

Pewter. I'm the second owner of a Jan 73, acquired in 1977.

The first owner did nothing to alter the truck except load up the frame with mud.

The rear seat frames were all pewter, even underneath the seat cushions.

 

[Engineer8000]

Thank you sir!

 

[charliemeyer007]

My 72 rear seat hardware is pewter.

 

[Living in the Past]

My 73 came with the jumps loose in the back of my 73 when I bought it in 1994. Still original. Frame was definitely pewter color. Front seat have black frames. 74 had a roll bar and narrow jump seats with black frames. 73 was the only year of mixed colors of the seat frame.

 

[Engineer8000]

I finally gathered the bends and tubes to fab up the tail pipe. On the 73, the tail pipe exits behind the left rear wheel. Without a body on there it is difficult to estimate how far out the tail pipe should protrude past the clamp. From photos, it looks like it should be about even with the outer sidewall of the tire. Can someone provide the measurement from the clamp to the end of the tailpipe, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Living in the Past]

My 73 does not have the original exhaust but here is what it has. Just over ten inches from the bottom clamp.

From the frame to outside of the tub is around ten and a half inches.

 

[Engineer8000]

perfect, thank you!

 

[Engineer8000]

I was installing the steering shaft in the column today. I had to chase one of the screw threads that were messed up in the ignition switch housing. I found the bearing in the ignition switch housing needs some attention too. I was surprised to find it is not a sealed bearing. I am soaking it in diesel fuel overnight and will repack when cleaned up. NSK B18Z-1B1, 18.72 x 38 x 10.

And I think I got it upside down at the firewall bracket.

 

[Engineer8000]

I ordered some DIN 73379 braided cover fuel line for the vapor separator tubing.

 

[73FJ40]

I finally gathered the bends and tubes to fab up the tail pipe. On the 73, the tail pipe exits behind the left rear wheel. Without a body on there it is difficult to estimate how far out the tail pipe should protrude past the clamp. From photos, it looks like it should be about even with the outer sidewall of the tire. Can someone provide the measurement from the clamp to the end of the tailpipe, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I have an OEM tail pipe clone and an OEM pipe hanger. I get 7 1/2" from the edge of the hanger and 10 1/4" from the frame.

 

[Engineer8000]

Thank you!

 

[Engineer8000]

I started on my PTO winch today.

I got it torn down and some preliminary cleaning/degreasing started. It had a small amount of water in the gear case but no real corrosion in there. The disengaging linkage is currently frozen. The bottom roller bolt nut is also being stubborn; I put some penetrating oil on these for the night. I found one thread that discussed disassembly. Other than removing the bolts for the covers, the only other trick is heating the lever end piece a bit (not red hot or anything) to get it to slide off the shaft.

The worm shaft has some damage. Don't know whether to find a replacement or run this one. I will never winch anything with it.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Cool hand Luke. I would weld that up and then use a Dremel tool/bit to smooth it back out.

 

[Engineer8000]

Thought about that but not sure of the material. Cast steel? Or possibly machined from a steel forging?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Drill in some small angled pins and weld them together. It will not take a lot of heat. That chip out will act as a lathe bit chewing the gear it works with. If nothing else use the Dremel with a grinding stone and lightly radius/softening that cutting edge.

 

[Engineer8000]

I have two winches, Im pulling the gears from the other one to check condition.

 

[Engineer8000]

I disassembled the second winch and it had a good worm shaft, so combining parts of both I will get a pretty decent PTO winch. Dropped off the winch parts to be media blasted. Stopped by the powder coater and discussed my jump seat frames. He said they could do the umb-2062 shimmer gold so that is set.

After a few days in the de-rust bucket and a few days in the crock pot, I was able to get this cast hitch cleaned up and painted.

I revisited the reverse light. I cut out a gasket using my cricut machine. It didn't cut very well, I need to figure that out. I used 2mm EVA foam. Installed new OEM rim screws and washers/nuts for the mounting on the back.

 

[JohnnyC]

the best you could do with the worm is to find a good used one? maybe mark aka 65swb45 has one.... or weld/fix it... its doable for a good welder... then file back down and heat treat it