60 shut off. Will not start.

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L

Landschooner

10 Year
Joined
Jun 24, 2011
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18
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I've had a succession of problems withstarting. It cranks fine. When it fist did not start I let it sit overnight then tried carberator spray and it started right up. I changed fuel filter although there was no obvious gunk in filter. Then a week later it was idling and shut off. It was parked on and slight hill facing downhill. Fuel gauge needle was just above "E." I could not see fuel in the new filter. I tried spraying carb spray and it coughed a bit, made a pop sound but did not kick over. Today I am going to put a full 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. Here is another odd part to this. I had a trailer hooked up and turned the lights on just todo a safety check to make sure all lights were working. The rear lights of vehicle - and trailer - did not come on. I went to steering column and rotated light switch and I swear that's when the engine shut off. It could have been coincidence but I think not. So maybe there is some weird electrical in play. I'll check fuses today.
 
Ignition relay? Emmision computer faulty maybe; it's in the kick panel below the fuse box. Is your ICS green clip plugged the way it should be or hardwired to the carb?
How's the fuel pump? Stock? Notice any fluid from the weep hole that faces the oil cooler? Pull the hose to the hard line and try cranking it and see if you get gas.
Those are a few of my thoughts.
Others will surely chime in soon.
 
Maybe a floating ground somewhere between front to back is possible too. @Output Shaft has a great sticky (in the 60 Faqs) that outlines how to diagnose one if all symptoms point that way.
 
Also fusible link... includes ignition, alternator and lights (I believe) check for continuity.
 
  • Those are all terrific suggestions. I went back this morning where it had shut off. Miracles! I put 2 gallons of gasin and it started and got me home, about 8 miles. I was able to get trailer back in drive. Then no starting. Crazy. I finally called AAA. For a tow to the mechanic. I'll let you know outcome. It's ann excellent shop, "Iron Pig" in Fredericksburg, Virginia. Man, have I sent them some money over the years. Stay tune. ,Ishtar be a few days. I am thinking fuel pump. It is 32 years old after all, if not 33.
 
At mechanics it started right up. No problem. Was tested for pressure in fuel pump. No problem there. It started regularly and repeatedly. We surmised there may be ethanol gunk. Put in a BG treatment. Drove the 30 miles, toward home, stopped for gas and turned off. After fill up turned on. Drove 30 feet then shut off. Would not start. I saw fuel in fuel filter. What the heck! This is the third no start episode. It always occurs after it has been driven enough to warm up quite a lot. It drove fine the 30 miles home today. WhatS up? It cranks repeatedly just fine but there is no smell of fuel. Definately seems to be fuel, not electrical/spark.
 
I would be skeptical of any shop that, when a customer comes in with an intermittent no start, pours in a can of STP and sends them home. I don't care who they are. Granted it is an intermittent problem but you'd think that maybe they could have driven it around for a couple of days running errands and such until the problem presented itself and then done a real fix on it.

The next time this issue happens, check the fuel level in the sight glass on the carb. Next, pull a plug wire off the plug and check for spark arcing from the end of the plug wire to anything metal while you have an assistant cranking the truck over. Your problem may be fuel related. It could be spark related. You may have a blockage in your tank. You could have a bad coil. Whatever the problem is, a can of STP is not going to fix it...but I guess you know that now. Good luck with it.
 
The story can ntinues. . . I went back to truck this morning, about 36 hours after it quit, sprayed in carb starter fluid and it fired right up. Drove home. I'm thinking crud in the tank, that is obstructing fuel from leaving the tank and being drawn up by fuel line. I am being told that maybe the high ethanol content has damaged or flaked the metal on the tank as nteriot. To recap, in the last month, there have been 4 occasions where the truck had been driven long enough to "warm up", i.e. at least 15 minutes, and after turning it off, and climbing back in to start it, it would not start. On a couple occasions I had started fluid on hand and used it, and it find not start. In each case, the I could see that the clear fuel filter housing did not have fuel in it or was 1/2 or 2/3 full of fuel. When I got the motor running the furl filter housing was full of fuel. So I think I have a tank inspection / clean out project.
 
There's a drain plug in the tank. You could drain it into buckets to see how much crud came out. If you saw big flakes it may give you an idea of how to proceed. I would not rule out blockage due to trash in the tank. Another idea...take the fuel line loose from the tank side of the filter. Blow a little compressed air back toward the tank to dislodge the crud then see if it will start. I would remove the gas cap when you do this so as not to over pressurize the tank.
 
I didn't read where you checked spark by pulling a boot and cranking as suggested above. Check the distributor cap and rotor. The distributor can cause the symptoms you are describing. If you're getting spark, pull the fuel line off the carb, put it in a container and crank motor over to see how much fuel is being delivered. Start with the simple stuff bud.
 
morganism said:
Sounds like a plugged jet. Pull off that glass cover and drain the fuel in carb, maybe you will get lucky and drain chunks out. But the jet is straight behind the window....
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Thanks mwebfj60. The shop cleaned up the carb. (The butterfly valve had come loose from the choke cable so they reconnected and cleaned out, short of carb rebuild.)

So what about fuel tank access? Does anyone have experience getting access to tank adequate enough to clean out? Is there a tank drain plug at bottom? Any kind of access "port" or opening at top? I have found a removeable plate below carpet in rear of truck that I am trying to open but one of the dang screws will not come out. It would great to be able to access tank from above, siphon all gas into another vehicle and look in there to see if there is debris that could be removed - after disconnecting battery of course! Removing the tank would be a real pain. Could be another shop vac project - with hose grounded of course.
 
I don't know if your comprehending what mweb is saying. Yeah the shop cleaned the carb, but rather than pull the tank or drain the tank, why not pull the line off the carb ..crank the motor and run the fuel into a clear cup or mason jar. Then you'll see if there's trash or water in your fuel. Also you will see how weak your fuel pump is. Also I did not see you say or confirm if you pulled the spark plug boot and checked for spark. This way you can narrow it down to electrical. Do this when it fails to start. Like mweb says "start with the simple stuff"
 
g-man said:
I don't know if your comprehending what mweb is saying. Yeah the shop cleaned the carb, but rather than pull the tank or drain the tank, why not pull the line off the carb ..crank the motor and run the fuel into a clear cup or mason jar. Then you'll see if there's trash or water in your fuel. Also you will see how weak your fuel pump is. Also I did not see you say or confirm if you pulled the spark plug boot and checked for spark. This way you can narrow it down to electrical. Do this when it fails to start. Like mweb says "start with the simple stuff"
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Yea, it gets spark regularly. The Mason jar step is a good idea but it appears the fuel coming out of the fuel filter is clean. I replaced the fuel filter a couple weeks ago and the old one was quite clean, ad is the replacement. I suspect the Mason jar trick could catch particles small enough to pass through the filter. . .
 
Thanks everyone . I see I had overlooked a couple of posts, about the Macon jar trick and blowing forced air back through lines from filter. I'll try these. Again, thanks.
 
The jar is simply to verify that your getting fuel from the pump. Disconnect where my finger is pointing and stuff that end of the soft hose into a juice jar. Crank the engine to see if fuel dumps out. If not then your pump has failed.

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It sounds like you are going down the right path of fuel. That seems like the biggest variable to a running truck. Have you replaced fuel lines in the engine bay? If so, did you reinstall some sort of temperature shielding to prevent fuel from boiling/evaporating? Does your post-shut-down fan work?
I haven't looked at the electrical schematic for my FJ60 too in depth, but I had a hot start issue with my 88 4runner due to the factory wiring of the starter relay.
 
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