60 shut off. Will not start.

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It sounds like you are going down the right path of fuel. That seems like the biggest variable to a running truck. Have you replaced fuel lines in the engine bay? If so, did you reinstall some sort of temperature shielding to prevent fuel from boiling/evaporating? Does your post-shut-down fan work?
I haven't looked at the electrical schematic for my FJ60 too in depth, but I had a hot start issue with my 88 4runner due to the factory wiring of the starter relay.


I have not replaced lines, recently. Part of the unknown here is the possibility that lines have deteriorated due to ethanol fuel, and possible this deterioration has left gunk in the lines - or fuel tank.
 
Yes I did get the tank replaced through the recall. I think it was in about 2008. I've had the truck 18 years. Got it from a guy who moved up here to Virginia from Texas. I have to take a few days away from working this further due to day-job demands.
 
There's a drain plug in the tank. You could drain it into buckets to see how much crud came out. If you saw big flakes it may give you an idea of how to proceed. I would not rule out blockage due to trash in the tank. Another idea...take the fuel line loose from the tank side of the filter. Blow a little compressed air back toward the tank to dislodge the crud then see if it will start. I would remove the gas cap when you do this so as not to over pressurize the tank.

Blowing air back through is a great idea. I defeated Nate
Y want to try that. Dang. I just filed the tank. There are 17 some gallons of fuel to deal with whenever I get to drawing and blowing. That's a pain. I don't want to siphon into a note car, could send crud along!
 
@g-man This is my father's truck, and he admits 'mud can be hard for him to navigate. So if I remember correctly, he had it towed to IPOR and they rebuilt the butterfly valve on the carb and did some other work including the BG flush. This was the first trip, it died on him coming back from this visit. I will ask him what they did to correct the not starting. It is back home with him now though.
 
Almost seems like the ICS is acting up. But that normal won't keep it from starting, but it can cause it to die randomly.

Also is your carb cooling fan working?
 
Carb cooling fan should run for about 20 mins after the truck is shut off If not, then you need to check the wiring, temp sensor and if the fan is even there anymore ;)

Because of all the emmison crap the carb cooling fan is needed to prevent vapor lock (I think)
 
My father has had the truck since 1999, and it was in Texas before as far as we know so i'm not sure if there is smog equipment on there still or not. I should know more about this but I don't...that is why I lurk.
 
Hello Everyone - I tried most all of the suggestions offered. All very helpful. Finally took it back to shop to drain tank. Found the fuel lines segment closest to tank had pin holes in it, causing the system to suck air and not fuse, and reducing that vacuum abi
It's of the fuel line system. These were replaced and it now runs. All the suggestions helped to definitely prove it was a fuel problem and not electrical. I could see spark. When carb fluid was sprayed into air filter housing it would cough and run until the fluid was burned up. This was an important diagnostic indicator of no fuel being delivered. This was not an inexpensive experience. I tell you though, once it was back and running and humming down the road with the full cruiser mojo in motion, it seems worth it. . . sort of. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Toyota calls it the "Fuel Cut Solenoid Valve". Other people here refer to it as the ICS (idle cut solenoid?...idle control solenoid?)

It's the electrically activated plunger valve screwed into the carb (green plug) that cuts off a fuel circuit when not energized.

I suppose the correct acronym for it should be FCS.

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