60 key code/worn key/alternator problems (1 Viewer)

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g-man

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my fj60 key is worn pretty bad. I can pull it out of the ignition while the switch is in the run position. Lately my alternator light comes on with the brake light and the voltage drops from 14 to 12. It is intermittent and will go back to 14 volts after a few minutes. I have tested my batteries while this is happening and the voltage gauge is accurate. I am losing alt. voltage and running on batteries while this happens. I just last year had my alternator rebuilt and the terminals are tight and corrosion free. I wonder if the loose key is causing this?? the ignition switch itself is not loose but the button on the top of the column is a bit worn ...does not always catch. I can't seem to reproduce the problem by wiggling the key or even pulling it out or part way out.

I wanted to replace my key first but can't find a key code on the front door cylinders. Only a three digit number on the linkage behind the cylinder. Where else can I find a key code?
 
The code shoul be stamp on the barrel itself, not on the linkage. Have you check driver and passenger key barrel ?

... or go to a Toyota Dealer with your VIN.
 
I don't see a way for the loose key to be causing those issues. That's more of a worn key/tumbler issue. If the ignition cylinder was causing electrical issues I would think you would have issues beyond voltage drop when pushing the brakes. I would lean more toward a ground or short in the brake circuit.
 
The code is only on the (US) passenger side front door lock.

Dyno
 
I don't see a way for the loose key to be causing those issues. That's more of a worn key/tumbler issue. If the ignition cylinder was causing electrical issues I would think you would have issues beyond voltage drop when pushing the brakes. I would lean more toward a ground or short in the brake circuit.

Not happening when on the brakes. Just brake light comes on and ignition light comes on and voltage drops. Similiar to when you turn your key to the ACC position. I also notice that the first relay (cylindrical shaped) gets really hot. Is that the ignition relay?

Also could the ignition control regulator on top of the alternator cause this problem? I thought that when regulators go the voltage goes up like 15 volts or more.
 
Now that you found the code mark it down on the inside of the glove box door with a sharpie. That way next time you wont have to take the door apart (in 30 more years).

Dyno
 
When the alternator spins it creates volts & amps (or at least it should). If you've measured the battery voltage at the battery with a hand held volt meter and the voltage drops to 12.something when the engine is running, there's a problem with either the voltage regulator or the alternator.

Most rebuilt alternators do not include a new voltage regulator and these regulators don't last forever.

If you've got a shop near you that can check alternators, that's an option. Or you could by a new VR and hope that fixes the problem (it may not, but it's good to have a spare anyway).

The worn out key isn't creating the electrical problem.
 
Now that you found the code mark it down on the inside of the glove box door with a sharpie. That way next time you wont have to take the door apart (in 30 more years).

Dyno


I will write it down in the Memo section in the back of the owners manual. Then in 30 years I will have forgotten where I wrote it down.
 
When the alternator spins it creates volts & amps (or at least it should). If you've measured the battery voltage at the battery with a hand held volt meter and the voltage drops to 12.something when the engine is running, there's a problem with either the voltage regulator or the alternator.

Most rebuilt alternators do not include a new voltage regulator and these regulators don't last forever.

If you've got a shop near you that can check alternators, that's an option. Or you could by a new VR and hope that fixes the problem (it may not, but it's good to have a spare anyway).

The worn out key isn't creating the electrical problem.

Thanks. I will have to check on the availability of the regulator. I see there are three screws inside the cover. do I remove these and just pull it off??
 
Toyota makes a remanufactured VR for the stock alternator.
No guarantee that this is the problem, but here's the part number.
Two screws clamp the outer shell down, while three screws make the electrical connection inside.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Toyota makes a remanufactured VR for the stock alternator.
No guarantee that this is the problem, but here's the part number.
Two screws clamp the outer shell down, while three screws make the electrical connection inside.

View attachment 1444036 View attachment 1444037 View attachment 1444038

copy that p/n. just called the dealer and the DO recognize the key code but don't have any blanks. The blanks are TR33, many on ebay, but will check the local hardware store.
 
I will write it down in the Memo section in the back of the owners manual. Then in 30 years I will have forgotten where I wrote it down.
If I'm really, really lucky I may still be driving my '86 FJ60 in 30 years. But there's hope - George Burns lived to be 7 years older than I'll be then.
 
Got 2 new keys cut at the dealership for free. Amazing because they usually charge 2x what you would expect for anything. Also thought it was interesting that one parts counter people did NOT no what an FJ60 was!!! Ordered the voltage regulator ...about 42.00 but will take some time to get here. Now my voltage is staying low 8 to 12 volts and no brake or ignition light on.???
 
If I'm really, really lucky I may still be driving my '86 FJ60 in 30 years. But there's hope - George Burns lived to be 7 years older than I'll be then.

I'll be 84 but by then a new truck will be 200k so I guess I have no choice but to keep cobbling it together.
 
My local toyota dealership code cuts keys cheaply too, but they really aren't cut well. If there is no definition to the key edges with little tiny indents and bulges, then go to a real locksmith- you will be shocked at the difference. Toyota dealers may have a key cutting machine- but they aren't pro locksmiths...
 
As I recall, if you have the manufacturers key code, a "Good" locksmith can cut the key. We had keys made for a Honda years ago from the key tag that comes with new cars.

A relative died, and the car keys could not be found. The car was unlocked and in the manual he had taped the key code tag. Went to a locksmith and they looked up the info and cut the key. This was at least 10 years ago, so maybe different now?
 

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