4Runner PS Pump / Gearbox Leak?

[Charles4x4]

This is the final final issue I've found on my new-to-me 4runner. Looks a leak at the gearbox or pump.

Think it is worth repairing given I plan to do a SAS or will it make it a few months with just adding fluid every few weeks/months?

Thanks!

 

[Charles4x4]

Here is how much it leaked after 1-day, so not a huge deal:

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If you SAS the truck you're going to want that steeering box for cross-over steering, so you may as well fix it now.

 

[Charles4x4]

If you SAS the truck you're going to want that steeering box for cross-over steering, so you may as well fix it now.

Is it going to be strong enough for 37s with hydro assist? I assumed I'd upgrade over stock at SAS.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

With hydro assist, yes, it'll be fine. Plenty of them are pushing 40's around.

 

[pappy]

I'll bet you that leak is one of the hoses.

 

[Charles4x4]

I'll bet you that leak is one of the hoses.

I'll check those tomorrow and see if it is a simple fix. Are there o-rings on the hoses or will the hoses likely need to be replaced?

 

[Charles4x4]

With hydro assist, yes, it'll be fine. Plenty of them are pushing 40's around.

Wow, wasn't expecting that - great! I'll fix it and save some $ down the line.

 

[pappy]

I'll check those tomorrow and see if it is a simple fix. Are there o-rings on the hoses or will the hoses likely need to be replaced?

There is one high pressure hose from the pump to the gear box that is a bit more involved. The other three are just hose. The supply and return lines from the cooler are 3/8" hose, and I think the supply line to the pump is 5/8" hose.

 

[Charles4x4]

There is one high pressure hose from the pump to the gear box that is a bit more involved. The other three are just hose. The supply and return lines from the cooler are 3/8" hose, and I think the supply line to the pump is 5/8" hose.

I cleaned the gearbox and it looks like it might be the output seal above the pitman arm. Check out the pics below. I may have to jack it up and watch it while cycling the steering to know for sure...

Doesn't look like the supply or return lines now though.

 

[Charles4x4]

From my view of the pics, it looks like I still need to clean it more and cycle the steering to me though. Let me know if anyone see's something I cannot see in them.

 

[lndshark]

Looks like the seal on the control valve shaft (where the steering shaft connects). Relatively easy job on the bench if you remove the control valve assembly from the gearbox (4 bolts, two lines, etc). Get a new o-ring for where the valve meets the gearbox as well.

 

[Charles4x4]

Looks like the seal on the control valve shaft (where the steering shaft connects). Relatively easy job on the bench if you remove the control valve assembly from the gearbox (4 bolts, two lines, etc). Get a new o-ring for where the valve meets the gearbox as well.

Thanks. Yeah, another member mentioned he thought it was the input seal:

"It's the input seal. Leaking at the back, running down the gearbox, and finding it's way down toward the pitman arm. If it were leaking at the output seal, the oil would run down the splines and you would see your drip on the pitman arm and not the gearbox housing. You can even see a drip at the front of the gearbox in that picture."

Sounds like you agree as well. Any chance there are pics of someone removing the control valve assembly? It not, I can glance at the FSM to make sure I'm removing the right control valve assembly only.

Also, when you remove the PS lines, will fluid rush out (i.e. do I need to drain and refill)?

 

[Charles4x4]

Looks like the seal on the control valve shaft (where the steering shaft connects). Relatively easy job on the bench if you remove the control valve assembly from the gearbox (4 bolts, two lines, etc). Get a new o-ring for where the valve meets the gearbox as well.

Hmm...4 bolts...2 lines... and 2hrs later and I'm stuck.

Here's what I've done:
1) Removed 4 Bolts - easy
2) Tried to remove two PS fittings - impossible with a wrench. Had to go buy a 17mm crows foot wrench and use my 1/2" breaker bar and lots of PB Blaster. Regardless, 1.5 hrs later and the fittings are off
3) Tried to pull the control valve assembly off - no way its sliding off the shaft
4) Loosened steering shaft at firewall to create room - still nowhere close to enough space to pull control valve assembly off the shaft
5) Loosened two bolts in the middle of the steering shaft - now its loose

But the control valve assembly still won't come off. Pic below.

Four questions:
1) How do I get this off? Is there a hidden c-clip in there? Or brute force?

2) Do I need to be marking position of any of these shafts or will lining the steerjng wheel back up be easy later?

3) Do I need to somehow drain all PS fluid with engine on to make sure it is all out? I read something about run engine and disconnect return line from reservoir to fully drain system?

4) Once I get it all back together, how do I bleed the PS system?

Thanks for any help!

Before I took steering shaft apart at middle joint 2-bolt 2 prong section.

Where I am stuck:

After taking steerjng shaft apart at middle:

Full freedom but the control valve assembly won't come out.

 

[Charles4x4]

Well, guess I'll get out the FSM tonight.

 

[Charles4x4]

Per the FSM, looks like I need to mark and then disconnect the U Joint completely (it's probably rusted on) and then remove the lock nut and I should be able to access the o-ring where the leak is likely occurring.

Also, I do need to run engine to flush system. Then bleed the system per the FSM.

 

[Charles4x4]

Hopefully I don't have to get anywhere near the worm shaft. It gets complicated from there!

 

[Charles4x4]

So is this the only O-Ring that needs to be replaced? I'm guessing so... anyone have a Napa part number?

 

[FrankTorres]

I would have thought that one would completely remove the gear box from the truck to do this work.
I've rebuilt a few FJ80 boxes everything is straight forward when its on the bench.

Charles, I would suggest you remove the gear box form the truck and finish rebuilding it on the bench...

Good luck

 

[Charles4x4]

I would have thought that one would completely remove the gear box from the truck to do this work.
I've rebuilt a few FJ80 boxes everything is straight forward when its on the bench.

Charles, I would suggest you remove the gear box form the truck and finish rebuilding it on the bench...

Good luck

Actually it's much easier leaving it on. The pitman arms on 1st gens are notorious for breaking pullers. Once I figured out the sequence and got the right tools (17mm crows foot), it was strategist forward.

Just waiting for the new seal to come in tomorrow. Nothing else needs to be rebuilt. There are a few threads that cover this at the high level but hopefully others can learn from my steps above and do it in half the time.

Likely a 1-2 hr job the 2nd time.