tucker74
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3F-E Conversion Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lelandEOD
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #102
Thanks guys!
A quick question for those with 3FE conversions in their 40's:
A fellow on another forum recently asked me where I was going to put the intake cooling fan. Frankly, I didn't know it was important and I deleted it. Is anyone else having vapor lock/hard starting issues without this fan?
I'm a little freaked out that I may have completely missed such potentially big issue. Thoughts?
A quick question for those with 3FE conversions in their 40's:
A fellow on another forum recently asked me where I was going to put the intake cooling fan. Frankly, I didn't know it was important and I deleted it. Is anyone else having vapor lock/hard starting issues without this fan?
I'm a little freaked out that I may have completely missed such potentially big issue. Thoughts?
I'm not using the carb fan. I didn't see how it would help on an efi engine.
I can guarantee this. The 3FE will not disappoint you. Love my engine (2FE).
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
No carb cooling fan on my 3FE in the 55 body.
I have no problems, but I should actually drive it before I give you such assurances...
I have no problems, but I should actually drive it before I give you such assurances...
I too have no intake fan on my 3fe conversion. It's not a fj40 but a fj55 like Pablo. I have wheeled it hard in 100+ Colorado heat with multiple stops and starts and have no problems at all. I would run it and see how it does. You can always add it later.
My Ozzie friend don't lie.
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Fun to drive too ... you're gonna love it
Tucker
Agree, have a ton of seat time in '40's and Rootbeer is by far my favorite. Not the fastest, most powerful of the bunch, but, the 2FE is well matched, feels "right" in the 40, is a real pleasure to drive/wheel.
Not running the carb fan, zero issue.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #110
I've been working on brakes the last few days but have toyed with the engine a little. I fab'ed my own exhaust by bending pipes on a friends tubing bender. That was a lot of fun, let me tell you. I used a massive GM muffler to get this thing as quiet as I can.
My last remaining hurdle is sourcing ONE oxygen sensor connector. My donor motor was missing one and I'm having a devil of a time finding someone willing to cut off one male 02 sensor pigtail for me to graft onto my engine harness.
I have it rigged temporarily, but it's not a permanent solution. Also, I let the motor run for about 8-9 minutes after I finally got the oil pressure sender showing that I was indeed building oil pressure. Now the issue appears to be overheating. The motor (according to my new autometer gauge) was pushing the 230-240 degree mark. I really wish I had an IR temp scanner to confirm but for now this is all I have to go on.
Is there anything I should check for an easy solution before I replace the thermostat? The radiator is original but has been refurbished by a shop at some point (has a service tag soldered to the top). It isn't excessively heavy so I don't think it's plugged up. I've topped off the fluids but am not sure if there's a way to burp the system or something.
Ideas?
My last remaining hurdle is sourcing ONE oxygen sensor connector. My donor motor was missing one and I'm having a devil of a time finding someone willing to cut off one male 02 sensor pigtail for me to graft onto my engine harness.
I have it rigged temporarily, but it's not a permanent solution. Also, I let the motor run for about 8-9 minutes after I finally got the oil pressure sender showing that I was indeed building oil pressure. Now the issue appears to be overheating. The motor (according to my new autometer gauge) was pushing the 230-240 degree mark. I really wish I had an IR temp scanner to confirm but for now this is all I have to go on.
Is there anything I should check for an easy solution before I replace the thermostat? The radiator is original but has been refurbished by a shop at some point (has a service tag soldered to the top). It isn't excessively heavy so I don't think it's plugged up. I've topped off the fluids but am not sure if there's a way to burp the system or something.
Ideas?
Last edited:
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I burp mine by elevating the front of the rig, and watching the coolant level.
How are your top and bottom hoses feeling? Is the heat flowing into the radiator? Is thermostat opening?
How are your top and bottom hoses feeling? Is the heat flowing into the radiator? Is thermostat opening?
I have a coolant flow chart for the 3fe at work can post tomorrow. Might help. I has an air bubble cavitate in a 2f once. Steam locked it in place.
Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
Try this to help with any coolant questions..
i'm not far enough to have a concern about overheating. Still havent mounted the PTO box to the side of the TCase thus haven't made exhaust yet..
And have a new alum radiator waiting. Champion radiator but Jenn ordered it thru cruiser corp. Same product, different vendor. It's still sitting new in the box. my old radiator had a pinhole leak and was almost 50 years old.
Can't see how a cruiser can overheat with proper fanclutch, waterpump and thermostat and shroud.
I run a similar radiator in the wagon with a v8 and it doesn't overheat.
And have a new alum radiator waiting. Champion radiator but Jenn ordered it thru cruiser corp. Same product, different vendor. It's still sitting new in the box. my old radiator had a pinhole leak and was almost 50 years old.
Can't see how a cruiser can overheat with proper fanclutch, waterpump and thermostat and shroud.
I run a similar radiator in the wagon with a v8 and it doesn't overheat.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #116
I believe the T-stat is opening because the upper radiator hose gets pretty hot at about 180 degrees (gauge indicated). The lower hose stays fairly cool (compared to the top hose). I've also burped the coolant using the method described by others (front elevated, coolant cap off). I get no noticeable drop in coolant level.
On a related note, how can I tell if I've got a bad water pump?
My first suspect is the fan clutch. There seems to be little resistance when I spin the fan with the engine cool or after I shut it down when the motor reaches 230 degrees (it feels about the same to me using my calibrated fingertips). It should be pretty obvious when the clutch engages, right... like the fan sound should change dramatically?
On a related note, how can I tell if I've got a bad water pump?
My first suspect is the fan clutch. There seems to be little resistance when I spin the fan with the engine cool or after I shut it down when the motor reaches 230 degrees (it feels about the same to me using my calibrated fingertips). It should be pretty obvious when the clutch engages, right... like the fan sound should change dramatically?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Yes, fan sound changes when it is sucking air.
I had a 3FE fan clutch that was on all the time, perhaps yours is never on?
I had a 3FE fan clutch that was on all the time, perhaps yours is never on?
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #119
I just installed a brand new fan clutch and my temp gauge is reading 240. Too damn hot!
I thought the fan clutch was supposed to lock/become harder to spin when the engine gets really hot? First of all, I can't hear any difference in fan noise from cold, to hot, to too hot. And second, I notice that the fan spins easier, by hand, immediately after I shut the engine down. Is this wrong or am I completely missing something on the operation of the fan clutch?
I thought the fan clutch was supposed to lock/become harder to spin when the engine gets really hot? First of all, I can't hear any difference in fan noise from cold, to hot, to too hot. And second, I notice that the fan spins easier, by hand, immediately after I shut the engine down. Is this wrong or am I completely missing something on the operation of the fan clutch?
