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- #2,081
Build 1988 BJ74 “Number 1”
- Thread starter FJBen
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I think you have removed your transmission a few times over the years, yes? Not familiar with the frame on a 74, do you have a hard time removing/installing the transmission? On the Ute there isn't enough room to pull the transmission back far enough to lower it without going sideways a bit to have enough clearance to drop/install. Been fighting my transmission for the past two days, I will see if I can put it into 1st gear and remove the shifter then I should be able to wiggle the gears to help line up the splines. I'm trying a uniclutch and the tolerances are very tight.
I would agree, if I only would have one.
Read carefully: 3b(x) was the object
, the dinosaurs , not the advanced stuff.But I generally agree: Wouldn't mind to keep my 3B engine. Hope it stays healthy and doesn't die on me for just a discontinued standard part one day.
Cheers Ralf
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- #2,084
Just saw this. Yes I have removed it more times than I’d like to admit. Im guessing you might have a crossmember or frame piece in the way that the 74 doesn’t have.
I always put it in neutral then remove the shifter. I use 2 jacks to start. 1 far enough back to remove the crossmember, then I put the tranny jack under there.
I also put a 2x4 over the fenders (with blanket) and a ratchet strap to the rear motor lift hook to keep the engine in place. I very slightly lift the tranny jack to take pressure off the input spline.
Remove the bolts on the bellhousing then usually wiggling the tranny back and fourth it will pop off easily. Only times it has given me
Fits is when I either had the transmission too high or too low on the jack causing bind.
I have used a screwdriver to pry a little on each side if it sticks. As for room, once the shaft is out of the clutch, I start lowering it and going back.
I have to jack up the rear tire about 8” and put in on blocks so I can wheel the combo out from under it.
How long will it take? You can use the garage at my place if you want!Fail.
View attachment 3569426
It’s antifreeze. It’s coming from the cooler so quite the joyous task coming up.
So at this point I need to tackle these at the same time:
Pushrod cover
Front timing cover
Oil cooler gasket
Which means pull a whole lot of crap off the engineIt sucks becuase it’s like $25.00 in gaskets but nearing a kegs worth of beer.
The worst part…my shop. It’s angled so I can really only pull forward. I would have to pull the top and rear doors to back in…
Have I whined enough?
Wait til the parts get in and setup a plan. I have a feeling this is how 1hd-FTE swaps begin….
Haha…no
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That's a generous offer and can confirm 11/10 the garage is mint! Scanner is mobile and can meet there when you get around to this project @FJBen.
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- #2,087
Super cool and generous offer! I’m not sure how long it will take, I’d image a weekend of normal work or 1 really long day. I’ll have to see how long the part gathering takes and how the timing works. Definitely don’t want to put you out at all.
His place is definitely cool…Can confirm! That is a dream shop.
That would be awesome to get that scanned, very cool and I’m sure useful to it of people.
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- #2,089
Much appreciated! Will let you know for sure once all parts get here!
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- #2,090
Fresh off the plane from Australia. Appears to be the right part.
Now to find some time to get it scanned.
Now about my maturity.
They are redoing a 2 mile section of dirt road I have to drive everyday. This means new gravel and big rocks. Well all the @sshats drive fast and throw rocks. Especially company truck jerks. Drive fast, kick up rocks. Hit 2 different vehicles of mine multiple times.
Well me being a mature adult, I consider options to the most effective way to positively deal with this.
First info grab my Land Cruiser. Why would I risk my Bj74 you ask? Geolander MT G003s are why. Big lugs pickup big rocks.
I went full Oprah on those bitchez…
You get a rock! You get a rock! Little kid waiting for the bus? You get a rock! Everyone gets a rock!
I’m not proud.
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- #2,092
Semi tech question and maybe to cork sniffer for a race tractor.
Toyota paper gaskets are great. They come covered with a coating. I’m not sure if it’s a sealant or what it is or if all of their gaskets come with that.
You can see the difference in the Toyota gasket then the new one (aftermarket) I got from Australia.
So my questions are:
#1 can you get OEM Toyota paper sheets? Or who is a supplier?
# 2 if above is no, then I suppose it’s is there any paper coated like this available to buy in sheets?
#3 can I fit 35’s? (Sorry I’m in a shaming 100 series mood today)
#4 screw it, scan this one, slap it on and hope for 100k miles without leaks.
And for fun, I remember thinking how cool this rig was back in the day. Some of you may remember it from pirate4x4 in the early 2000’s
Toyota paper gaskets are great. They come covered with a coating. I’m not sure if it’s a sealant or what it is or if all of their gaskets come with that.
You can see the difference in the Toyota gasket then the new one (aftermarket) I got from Australia.
So my questions are:
#1 can you get OEM Toyota paper sheets? Or who is a supplier?
# 2 if above is no, then I suppose it’s is there any paper coated like this available to buy in sheets?
#3 can I fit 35’s? (Sorry I’m in a shaming 100 series mood today)
#4 screw it, scan this one, slap it on and hope for 100k miles without leaks.
And for fun, I remember thinking how cool this rig was back in the day. Some of you may remember it from pirate4x4 in the early 2000’s
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Scan it, thin thin layer of RTV or anaerobic sealant and call it good. Yes 44's will fit.
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- #2,094
I used gasgacinch on the oil cooler paper gasket and that apparently didn’t work out. I mean it did for 30k miles.
I wonder if that loctite 518 that everyone uses on the transmission/tcase will work with a fine smear, or more like “the right stuff” FIPG light smear on both sides.
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- #2,096
Unrelated news…but I’ve got a few things I’m going to post of up for sale (not the cruiser)
But any idea what to price a rebuilt ct26 at?
I won’t be going going back to the stock ct26 and seems silly to keep it.
But any idea what to price a rebuilt ct26 at?
I won’t be going going back to the stock ct26 and seems silly to keep it.
This is a tough one with all the chinesium ones out there for anyone crazy enough to bolt one of those on. Seems like you can get one of those for $150
If it is the original toyota CT-26 then I would think you should be able to get $250 - $300 for a refurbished original. Just an opinion of course...
I think I saw a wanted ad in the diesel classifieds for a CT 26 for their 1HD-T build.
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- #2,099
Might have finally found the culprit.
I don’t see the manual saying anything about sealant on these bolts. It was a little loose.
I went ahead and loosened it slightly and coolant started coming down. Tightened back up and cleaned it off. I suppose another test drive is in order.
I don’t see the manual saying anything about sealant on these bolts. It was a little loose.
I went ahead and loosened it slightly and coolant started coming down. Tightened back up and cleaned it off. I suppose another test drive is in order.
I removed a couple of oil coolers from 3B and noticed a couple changes in this area (from inside) from thin aluminum wall to thicker. On some, the thin aluminum wall started to be corroded. If you remove your cover, pay good attention to surface contact. Yes I thing a small layer of sealant both side gasket could not hurt.
You could maybe try to seal the thread on that bold but on long term, coolant get trapped on the bold and might corrode around bad enough that removing the bolt in the futur is near impossible