Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (2 Viewers)

mrboatman

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You are correct on the learning part. I went in and changed the closed setting to open for the cold. Mine is getting better with every start. Also I cycle the key twice before starting that just gives it a double squirt.
 

Zjohnsonua

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Question for those with some miles on theirs. Mine doesn’t want to cold start to save it’s life. It’ll start and die probably 2 or 3 times before it’ll start, idle really low, and slowly rise to around 1000rpm. Is that something that will self learn and get better the more I drive? I haven’t put more than 10 miles on it since the conversion. I’ve tried adjusting the coolant temp enrichment up to near 200% and it doesn’t do anything for cold start in my case. Should I just drive it more? The problem I see is that it isn’t learning below 160° so how will it learn?
Otherwise, it’s a drastic difference with how much better it runs.

Check your IAC position at cold. Sounds like your initial position set is incorrect.
 

wngrog

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Check your IAC position at cold. Sounds like your initial position set is incorrect.
IAC at cold is worthless. Has to be checked at 160
 

Zjohnsonua

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IAC at cold is worthless. Has to be checked at 160

Ya got me. I used the wrong name. It trims down at 160, for sure. I was referring to the speed/throttle screw.
 

mrboatman

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Closed to open on what?
Do you have this sniper manual? On page 56 is how to enable/disable the 0deg to 160deg open/closed loop or adjust that temp. I didn't change the temp I just changed if it was enabled or disabled. If it don't work out it is easy to change back.
 

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MoaByte

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My sniper definitely prefers warmer ambient temps on start up. On really cold winter days I sometimes have to restart it. Usually it will stumble along for several seconds before it goes to high idle then I let it idle for two or three minutes before driving or it or may stall. It does blow a lot of condensation out the tailpipe, much more than it used to do with the carb. Anyhow, it still starts easier than it used to.
 

wngrog

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Has anyone had issues with backfiring upon initial setup and drive? I only have drove it in first and second down my neighborhood.

Did you ever get it to idle correctly and set up your timing and IAC before you drove it?
 

wngrog

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I set up my timing but not IAC. I’ll give that a try

Go back to the manual and see the section about IAC.

You don’t adjust the throttle with the screw on the butterfly. You do it with the Wizard setup then adjust IAC after.

If that settles in 2-10 then drive it. See what’s what.

Timing 7-10
 
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Go back to the manual and see the section about IAC.

You don’t adjust the throttle with the screw on the butterfly. You do it with the Wizard setup then adjust IAC after.

If that settles in 2-10 then drive it. See what’s what.

Timing 7-10
I have a HEI DUI dizzy do you still want the timing at that?
 

wngrog

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I have a HEI DUI dizzy do you still want the timing at that?
Timing is critical and is the #1 reason other than an exhaust leak for backfires.

Slow down.


Idle the truck. Clamp off your vacuum advance line.

Set timing at the BB which is 7*. 10* max. (3* past BB or 10* off line)

Get Sniper to 160* then adjust the IAC until you get it in the 2-12 range. If the TPS ticks up. Cycle the ignition.

If the Wizard was set up correctly and you go through these steps and you still have problems then it’s an input issue.

Spark, Fuel, O2

It’s rarely the Sniper or the stock settings.
 

MoaByte

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What did you do to fix it?
I rebuilt the unit and lubed the 'bushing well' with high temp wheel bearing grease. The spark was grounding through the dissy shaft and it turned the old lube to gum.

Also, if you haven't checked your valve lash, this can create some serious tuning issues. I recommend a vacuum gauge to help get this sorted.
 

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