Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup

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All my OEM temp sensors are in the head.
The temp sensor for the non enumerated dummy gauge is in the head. The units used for motor function, which is what the sensor in the sniper is used for, are right below the T-stat that controls engine temp. I'm guessing the drain plug is where it is, because without it much of the fluid will sit in the block if not removed. I didn't see a point in second guessing the engineers, as they could have put them anywhere, but they chose there.
 

wngrog

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Again, no argument from me. That said, I’ve used 3 places in the past. TStat (have to lengthen the harness which is no big deal) and you also need a late model lower housing that has a provision. Most people don’t have that

Head….have to go get adapters to make it fit. That’s also if you have a head with a 3rd hole) and block.

Drain Plug. Pull. Insert. No adapters.

I have one truck that runs 10-15 degrees higher than my others. I tried 2 spots for the sensor. TStat and Block (with head covers on the block plug) thinking I was getting some bad numbers due to the exhaust.

No change.

So, you for sure are thinking correctly and again I’m not arguing with you but I am saying the easy button spot seems to work fine and I think the only thing you are needing from that sensor is to tell the sniper it’s at 165* and time to start learning
 

klinetime574

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I’ve noticed the discrepancy of the analog gauge on the digital screen too. Kinda silly the digital lines up and the analog does not.

@zipper I definitely agree with the thought process behind where the temperature sensor should be. It didn’t make sense to put it in the block drain but for this system it probably doesn’t matter much. I feel there would be minimal variance (temperature at each location) until it reaches operating temperature. Definitely glad I removed my drain and cleared what I could. It was plugged. What tools do y’all use to clear that out? @wngrog
 

wngrog

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I’ve noticed the discrepancy of the analog gauge on the digital screen too. Kinda silly the digital lines up and the analog does not.

@zipper I definitely agree with the thought process behind where the temperature sensor should be. It didn’t make sense to put it in the block drain but for this system it probably doesn’t matter much. I feel there would be minimal variance (temperature at each location) until it reaches operating temperature. Definitely glad I removed my drain and cleared what I could. It was plugged. What tools do y’all use to clear that out? @wngrog

Coat hanger to dig around and push water through with pressure. Air and water.
 

klinetime574

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Coat hanger to dig around and push water through with pressure. Air and water.
Mine must have been really bad. I scraped around in there with a screwdriver for probably 30 mins until I could even get the sensor to start threading in. Mind you I was laying across the front bumper/ top of the engine (uncomfortable to say the least).
 
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Again, no argument from me. That said, I’ve used 3 places in the past. TStat (have to lengthen the harness which is no big deal) and you also need a late model lower housing that has a provision. Most people don’t have that

Head….have to go get adapters to make it fit. That’s also if you have a head with a 3rd hole) and block.

Drain Plug. Pull. Insert. No adapters.

I have one truck that runs 10-15 degrees higher than my others. I tried 2 spots for the sensor. TStat and Block (with head covers on the block plug) thinking I was getting some bad numbers due to the exhaust.

No change.

So, you for sure are thinking correctly and again I’m not arguing with you but I am saying the easy button spot seems to work fine and I think the only thing you are needing from that sensor is to tell the sniper it’s at 165* and time to start learning
My unit is clocked 90* with my adapter so the stock cable has enough length.
 
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Just pulled my tank to start my Sniper conversion. This post has been really helpful but I hit a snag!

My tank does not look like the ones in the photo and I have no spot to put my in take fuel pump. Maybe my tank was relaced sometime? Has anyone seen this before. The flat area that others are drilling out to fit the in tank pump does not exist on my tank. Crap.

I'm thinking I'll need to move to an inline fuel pump. Didn't really want to do that. Any suggestions for a setup that won't make too much noise?

IMG_9939.JPG
 

DrRock

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Has your truck had the fuel tank recall completed? Hopefully others will chime in here but that tank looks like the original and not the updated one.
 
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Has your truck had the fuel tank recall completed? Hopefully others will chime in here but that tank looks like the original and not the updated one.
I was thinking it might. It is stamped H60 2003 (maybe 2008, hard to read) which doesn't seem like a part number.
 

Downey

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You can not use my in-tank fuel pump mounting kit because the top wall of your tank has to be much flatter than it is (in order to fit our top aluminum plate that houses the fuel pick-up fitting, fuel return fitting, and the sending unit). You could, however, use a genuine "FiTech" external, in-line fuel pump that I have in my ebay store for $69.95.
 

MoaByte

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Just pulled my tank to start my Sniper conversion. This post has been really helpful but I hit a snag!

My tank does not look like the ones in the photo and I have no spot to put my in take fuel pump. Maybe my tank was relaced sometime? Has anyone seen this before. The flat area that others are drilling out to fit the in tank pump does not exist on my tank. Crap.

I'm thinking I'll need to move to an inline fuel pump. Didn't really want to do that. Any suggestions for a setup that won't make too much noise?

View attachment 2894749
My tank was like that too. If I did it again, I'd do the surge tank method.
 

MoaByte

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Ordered my Sniper kit from Mosely yesterday. My only expectation is to get rid of the SMOG stuff. I don't expect increased MPG or HP. I do expect flawless starts and smooth idle. This will be fun.
My MPG didn't improve. But there is a noticable improvement in acceleration and holding higher speeds on hills. Start up is usually flawless, but never difficult.
 

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