Build 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
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- #542
It engages really softly so you can’t hear it. I’ve done some more digging and it sounds like you have to spin the pinion/driveshaft for it to engage the locker and the axle shafts won’t. I also find it almost needs some type of shock to give the force needed to get over the initial ramp to engage it as when I went slow they wouldn’t move off of their spot.
- Thread starter
- #545
Thanks for the heads up! I’ll have to save the diagram again so I have it in the future.
Talked with ECGS and they say it seems to be working correctly. I’ll be putting it back in and rolling with it and if it acts up on obstacles then maybe I’ll end up with ARBs.
- Thread starter
- #546
I’ve been waiting for this video from TinkerersAdventure. A true breakdown of the Eaton e locker and it does blow my mind. Obviously with the 8” the size isn’t as big of a factor but the engagement backlash (something I did notice when testing mine) is insane. IMO I think the OE Toyota E locker is the way to go if you want e lockers in these trucks. It’s just not the route I wanted to go with mine. I wanted to be able to use my old diffs as spares, I wanted an high pinion front, and at the time the cost difference wasn’t that much when it involved regearing. I do have a factory e locker on the shelf of the shop that may see use someday.
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i ended up being pretty happy with the toyota elockers.
i waa a little skeptical initially. but i definitely put them to the test a few times. especially when pushing 6k lbs.
they just have a critical setup step when setting carrier preload. thats why so many launched from the factory on small tires.
i waa a little skeptical initially. but i definitely put them to the test a few times. especially when pushing 6k lbs.
they just have a critical setup step when setting carrier preload. thats why so many launched from the factory on small tires.
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- Thread starter
- #548
I think I remember from years ago that they needed a longer axle shaft in the rear as the factory ifs shafts didn’t have enough engagement on the older axles. No clue if that was a real issue or not and I didn’t go too far into it as I felt like if it was enough of an issue for custom axle shafts I would just go full float rear end anyways. At this point the Eaton is going back in and I’ll try it out at cruisin the woods this September. I’ve got a laundry list of items to complete before then.
- Thread starter
- #550
Spent some time on my days off working on the truck. 3 days of constant 100+ degrees and heavy smoke from the surrounding fires means it was slow progress. One fire went from 7k acres to 19.2k acres in a span of two days.
Rebuilt the rear brakes again with new shoes and drums, I had done this a few months back but I didn’t catch that I had one of the shoes too tight and it overheated, I also pulled the rear diff to replace the RTV with a lube locker gasket. I use them on my F350 and really like them so I’m excited to see how they perform on the Yota. I’m also using one on the front diff as well.
Reinstalled the front diff and got lucky. I was tightening up the nuts and one went from righty-tighty to righty-loosy. Thankfully it was the bottom stud and was easy to get back out. I was able to source one from the local hardware store and had some extra nuts on hand from past projects so I could keep all 12mm nuts
Started reinstalling the turbo as well. The downpipe is just tacked, I need to get the transmission back before I final weld anything and I still need to route the wastegate to the downpipe. I’ll be extending the MAF wires to get them out of the danger zone as they are already pretty crispy from the last time I had it on I’m using a 3” to 2.5” reducer to help with the downpipe fitment.
Tested out the turbo blanket as well. Pretty happy about it
I upgraded my oil feed lines and drain line to non-carbon PTFE lines. They’re rated to withstand higher heat so I feel more comfortable with them but I’ll still be putting heat shielding on them. I also routed the feed line off the back of the oil filter housing (which supplies dirty oil) through a turbosmart pressure regulator that controls the oil psi at 40 psi and has a 44 micron stainless steel filter inside of it. The line is close to the exhaust manifold though and I’m not sure if I’m comfortable with it after the smoke show that happened last time. I don’t know how much it’ll move during every day driving or off road. I also discovered how close the manifold is to the oil filter housing itself. Nothing a hammer can’t solve.
Truthfully though, I may end up going with a different manifold. I love the look of this one but the packaging just doesn’t work well for me. Maybe if I was a better fabricator and had my own bender I could make it work but it looks like the oil drain line is going to have fitment issues with the wastegate exhaust line. I won’t know until I can tack the wastegate exhaust line together though.
I also got my spare tire rack figured out. I’ve been driving without a spare tire but now that I’m not near where I used to live, having a spare tire is important. It’ll fit up to a 14.5” wide tire and has room for a 37” tire. I used to nuts to service it to the bed with some M8 bolts. I picked it up from overland vehicle systems.
Rebuilt the rear brakes again with new shoes and drums, I had done this a few months back but I didn’t catch that I had one of the shoes too tight and it overheated, I also pulled the rear diff to replace the RTV with a lube locker gasket. I use them on my F350 and really like them so I’m excited to see how they perform on the Yota. I’m also using one on the front diff as well.
Reinstalled the front diff and got lucky. I was tightening up the nuts and one went from righty-tighty to righty-loosy. Thankfully it was the bottom stud and was easy to get back out. I was able to source one from the local hardware store and had some extra nuts on hand from past projects so I could keep all 12mm nuts
Started reinstalling the turbo as well. The downpipe is just tacked, I need to get the transmission back before I final weld anything and I still need to route the wastegate to the downpipe. I’ll be extending the MAF wires to get them out of the danger zone as they are already pretty crispy from the last time I had it on I’m using a 3” to 2.5” reducer to help with the downpipe fitment.
Tested out the turbo blanket as well. Pretty happy about it
I upgraded my oil feed lines and drain line to non-carbon PTFE lines. They’re rated to withstand higher heat so I feel more comfortable with them but I’ll still be putting heat shielding on them. I also routed the feed line off the back of the oil filter housing (which supplies dirty oil) through a turbosmart pressure regulator that controls the oil psi at 40 psi and has a 44 micron stainless steel filter inside of it. The line is close to the exhaust manifold though and I’m not sure if I’m comfortable with it after the smoke show that happened last time. I don’t know how much it’ll move during every day driving or off road. I also discovered how close the manifold is to the oil filter housing itself. Nothing a hammer can’t solve.
Truthfully though, I may end up going with a different manifold. I love the look of this one but the packaging just doesn’t work well for me. Maybe if I was a better fabricator and had my own bender I could make it work but it looks like the oil drain line is going to have fitment issues with the wastegate exhaust line. I won’t know until I can tack the wastegate exhaust line together though.
I also got my spare tire rack figured out. I’ve been driving without a spare tire but now that I’m not near where I used to live, having a spare tire is important. It’ll fit up to a 14.5” wide tire and has room for a 37” tire. I used to nuts to service it to the bed with some M8 bolts. I picked it up from overland vehicle systems.
- Thread starter
- #551
Had some time to go back and work on the truck again. I think one more good 3-4 day stretch and it’ll be driving again.
I ended up swapping to a LCE turbo manifold and it’s helped the install tremendously. I do have to use an adapter for the T3 to Tial V band and the one in the photo ended up being incorrect so I have another one on the way.
New downpipe fabbed and wrapped. I was able to use a lot off of the other downpipe I had fabbed so that wasn’t a waste. I’m now using a 40mm wastegate so I’ll be keeping an eye on the boost to make sure I don’t have boost creep. I did my best at making the wastegate exhaust go into the downpipe as smooth as possible and angled it so the exhaust leaving the turbo will help pull the wastegate exhaust out too.
Added some more heat shield to the passenger side since my plan is to have the exhaust go over top of the skid plate and I wanted to protect the brake lines from heat and the wiring.
Downpipe connects to a flex coupler using V bands so it’s replaceable if it every need to be replaced or I can service it as needed. Right now I can pull the downpipe from the bottom without removing the turbo. I also want to have a middle section of exhaust removable so I can drop it if I need to remove the transmission without having to remove the downpipe or tail pipe sections.
A glamor shot of the turbo in its natural habitat. I’m going to be running an open element air filter this time so I have two AFE filters coming to see which one fits better. One’s a 5” long filter and the other is 7” with an open nose. I’m hoping the 7” will work so I can feed this turbo as much air as possible. I also extended the MAF wiring so I could route it away from the downpipe.
I ended up swapping to a LCE turbo manifold and it’s helped the install tremendously. I do have to use an adapter for the T3 to Tial V band and the one in the photo ended up being incorrect so I have another one on the way.
New downpipe fabbed and wrapped. I was able to use a lot off of the other downpipe I had fabbed so that wasn’t a waste. I’m now using a 40mm wastegate so I’ll be keeping an eye on the boost to make sure I don’t have boost creep. I did my best at making the wastegate exhaust go into the downpipe as smooth as possible and angled it so the exhaust leaving the turbo will help pull the wastegate exhaust out too.
Added some more heat shield to the passenger side since my plan is to have the exhaust go over top of the skid plate and I wanted to protect the brake lines from heat and the wiring.
Downpipe connects to a flex coupler using V bands so it’s replaceable if it every need to be replaced or I can service it as needed. Right now I can pull the downpipe from the bottom without removing the turbo. I also want to have a middle section of exhaust removable so I can drop it if I need to remove the transmission without having to remove the downpipe or tail pipe sections.
A glamor shot of the turbo in its natural habitat. I’m going to be running an open element air filter this time so I have two AFE filters coming to see which one fits better. One’s a 5” long filter and the other is 7” with an open nose. I’m hoping the 7” will work so I can feed this turbo as much air as possible. I also extended the MAF wiring so I could route it away from the downpipe.
- Thread starter
- #552
Went back to the shop for another few days to finish the truck up.
New adapter came in, fit nicely and was barely any different height wise thankfully. The one on the left originally had a ring but I had sanded it off so things would fit for mock up.
Finally have a spare tire that isn’t dry rotted or the wrong size for the first time since owning this truck in 2015. New 35” from Les Schwab, not the biggest fan of them but beggars can’t be choosers when there’s a tight timeline involved. I plan on adding a chain through the hub bore to make sure no one can walk off with it.
Turbo was installed for the last time, coolant hoses ran, oil system primed and I had oil going through the feed line before I hooked it up to the turbo and through the drain line before I fired it off as I’m using a new CHRA this time. After the last drain line and feed line melting I was concerned about some shaft play and lack of lubrication .
The bigger AFE filter ended up working which makes me happy as it also pulls air through the nose of the filter. Tomorrow I’ll have the wrap I need for the AC lines, coolant lines, and the wiring harness. The black vacuum line going over the filter will have a fuel filter installed on it as it’s the vent to atmosphere for the wastegate so it can operate correctly. If I noticed any issues it’ll be the first thing I remove to check and make sure it’s not causing the problems.
I routed the catch can vent line and evap box to the same line going to my intake pre-turbo. One issue I had last time was smell, I originally had it venting to atmosphere and that was awful. I need to track down a 90 degree fitting but first I need to figure out what thread it is as it’s not an NPT fitting. It’s a cheap Amazon catch can from Evil Energy so I’m not holding my breath.
Hacked up the old exhaust mount for the transmission. It fits nicely at the top but has a gap at the bottom so I may pull it and bend the bottom or I may just leave it if the clamp fits good.
Tomorrow I should get the motor mounts chained and it’ll be ready for its exhaust appointment on Wednesday. For chaining the mounts I’m planing on running a chain through the 3rz-22re adapter mounts and call it good. I could weld the chain on but I’m lazy and don’t want to remove the tires and have to paint stuff.
New adapter came in, fit nicely and was barely any different height wise thankfully. The one on the left originally had a ring but I had sanded it off so things would fit for mock up.
Finally have a spare tire that isn’t dry rotted or the wrong size for the first time since owning this truck in 2015. New 35” from Les Schwab, not the biggest fan of them but beggars can’t be choosers when there’s a tight timeline involved. I plan on adding a chain through the hub bore to make sure no one can walk off with it.
Turbo was installed for the last time, coolant hoses ran, oil system primed and I had oil going through the feed line before I hooked it up to the turbo and through the drain line before I fired it off as I’m using a new CHRA this time. After the last drain line and feed line melting I was concerned about some shaft play and lack of lubrication .
The bigger AFE filter ended up working which makes me happy as it also pulls air through the nose of the filter. Tomorrow I’ll have the wrap I need for the AC lines, coolant lines, and the wiring harness. The black vacuum line going over the filter will have a fuel filter installed on it as it’s the vent to atmosphere for the wastegate so it can operate correctly. If I noticed any issues it’ll be the first thing I remove to check and make sure it’s not causing the problems.
I routed the catch can vent line and evap box to the same line going to my intake pre-turbo. One issue I had last time was smell, I originally had it venting to atmosphere and that was awful. I need to track down a 90 degree fitting but first I need to figure out what thread it is as it’s not an NPT fitting. It’s a cheap Amazon catch can from Evil Energy so I’m not holding my breath.
Hacked up the old exhaust mount for the transmission. It fits nicely at the top but has a gap at the bottom so I may pull it and bend the bottom or I may just leave it if the clamp fits good.
Tomorrow I should get the motor mounts chained and it’ll be ready for its exhaust appointment on Wednesday. For chaining the mounts I’m planing on running a chain through the 3rz-22re adapter mounts and call it good. I could weld the chain on but I’m lazy and don’t want to remove the tires and have to paint stuff.
Engine bay looks good.
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- #554
Rest of the wrap showed up. Both AC lines are wrapped, wiring harness and brake lines. I’ve got some extra play if I need to take the smaller AC line heat shield to the firewall. All the gold is DEI and the AC and wiring harness is Heatshield Products. I’ll be curious which one holds up better.
This is how I chained the Drivers side motor mount. It should work the same as the way everyone else does but may introduce a rattle. If this is absolutely dumb as hell feel free to call me out on it. I was running out of time and this was my solution. I couldn’t find Vinyl coated chain so I just grabbed some good old 1/4” and ran some M10x1.25 bolts with lock nuts. The extra link in the drivers side is in case I need to length it since it’s tight.
Passenger side is chained the same way as well.
Loaded up and ready for exhaust tomorrow then back to PDX Thursday morning.
This is how I chained the Drivers side motor mount. It should work the same as the way everyone else does but may introduce a rattle. If this is absolutely dumb as hell feel free to call me out on it. I was running out of time and this was my solution. I couldn’t find Vinyl coated chain so I just grabbed some good old 1/4” and ran some M10x1.25 bolts with lock nuts. The extra link in the drivers side is in case I need to length it since it’s tight.
Passenger side is chained the same way as well.
Loaded up and ready for exhaust tomorrow then back to PDX Thursday morning.
- Thread starter
- #555
Thank you! I’m trying my best to mitigate heat causing me any issues. I may have gone a bit overboard
I was going to chain my engine years ago but all I had was some small cable and clamps. I went from the frame up to one of the engine lifting brackets. Kind of an engine limiting strap. Never tore another motor mount. It seems to help the T-case mount as well when your engine isn't cranking over the entire drive train. I just did the driver side since that is the side that lifts and always was the side that tore.
The heat insulating stuff works so I don't thinks it's over kill. Especially with a turbo.
The heat insulating stuff works so I don't thinks it's over kill. Especially with a turbo.