Build 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
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- Thread starter
- #542
It engages really softly so you can’t hear it. I’ve done some more digging and it sounds like you have to spin the pinion/driveshaft for it to engage the locker and the axle shafts won’t. I also find it almost needs some type of shock to give the force needed to get over the initial ramp to engage it as when I went slow they wouldn’t move off of their spot.
- Thread starter
- #545
Thanks for the heads up! I’ll have to save the diagram again so I have it in the future.
Talked with ECGS and they say it seems to be working correctly. I’ll be putting it back in and rolling with it and if it acts up on obstacles then maybe I’ll end up with ARBs.
- Thread starter
- #546
I’ve been waiting for this video from TinkerersAdventure. A true breakdown of the Eaton e locker and it does blow my mind. Obviously with the 8” the size isn’t as big of a factor but the engagement backlash (something I did notice when testing mine) is insane. IMO I think the OE Toyota E locker is the way to go if you want e lockers in these trucks. It’s just not the route I wanted to go with mine. I wanted to be able to use my old diffs as spares, I wanted an high pinion front, and at the time the cost difference wasn’t that much when it involved regearing. I do have a factory e locker on the shelf of the shop that may see use someday.
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i ended up being pretty happy with the toyota elockers.
i waa a little skeptical initially. but i definitely put them to the test a few times. especially when pushing 6k lbs.
they just have a critical setup step when setting carrier preload. thats why so many launched from the factory on small tires.
i waa a little skeptical initially. but i definitely put them to the test a few times. especially when pushing 6k lbs.
they just have a critical setup step when setting carrier preload. thats why so many launched from the factory on small tires.
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- Thread starter
- #548
I think I remember from years ago that they needed a longer axle shaft in the rear as the factory ifs shafts didn’t have enough engagement on the older axles. No clue if that was a real issue or not and I didn’t go too far into it as I felt like if it was enough of an issue for custom axle shafts I would just go full float rear end anyways. At this point the Eaton is going back in and I’ll try it out at cruisin the woods this September. I’ve got a laundry list of items to complete before then.
- Thread starter
- #550
Spent some time on my days off working on the truck. 3 days of constant 100+ degrees and heavy smoke from the surrounding fires means it was slow progress. One fire went from 7k acres to 19.2k acres in a span of two days.
Rebuilt the rear brakes again with new shoes and drums, I had done this a few months back but I didn’t catch that I had one of the shoes too tight and it overheated, I also pulled the rear diff to replace the RTV with a lube locker gasket. I use them on my F350 and really like them so I’m excited to see how they perform on the Yota. I’m also using one on the front diff as well.
Reinstalled the front diff and got lucky. I was tightening up the nuts and one went from righty-tighty to righty-loosy. Thankfully it was the bottom stud and was easy to get back out. I was able to source one from the local hardware store and had some extra nuts on hand from past projects so I could keep all 12mm nuts
Started reinstalling the turbo as well. The downpipe is just tacked, I need to get the transmission back before I final weld anything and I still need to route the wastegate to the downpipe. I’ll be extending the MAF wires to get them out of the danger zone as they are already pretty crispy from the last time I had it on I’m using a 3” to 2.5” reducer to help with the downpipe fitment.
Tested out the turbo blanket as well. Pretty happy about it
I upgraded my oil feed lines and drain line to non-carbon PTFE lines. They’re rated to withstand higher heat so I feel more comfortable with them but I’ll still be putting heat shielding on them. I also routed the feed line off the back of the oil filter housing (which supplies dirty oil) through a turbosmart pressure regulator that controls the oil psi at 40 psi and has a 44 micron stainless steel filter inside of it. The line is close to the exhaust manifold though and I’m not sure if I’m comfortable with it after the smoke show that happened last time. I don’t know how much it’ll move during every day driving or off road. I also discovered how close the manifold is to the oil filter housing itself. Nothing a hammer can’t solve.
Truthfully though, I may end up going with a different manifold. I love the look of this one but the packaging just doesn’t work well for me. Maybe if I was a better fabricator and had my own bender I could make it work but it looks like the oil drain line is going to have fitment issues with the wastegate exhaust line. I won’t know until I can tack the wastegate exhaust line together though.
I also got my spare tire rack figured out. I’ve been driving without a spare tire but now that I’m not near where I used to live, having a spare tire is important. It’ll fit up to a 14.5” wide tire and has room for a 37” tire. I used to nuts to service it to the bed with some M8 bolts. I picked it up from overland vehicle systems.
Rebuilt the rear brakes again with new shoes and drums, I had done this a few months back but I didn’t catch that I had one of the shoes too tight and it overheated, I also pulled the rear diff to replace the RTV with a lube locker gasket. I use them on my F350 and really like them so I’m excited to see how they perform on the Yota. I’m also using one on the front diff as well.
Reinstalled the front diff and got lucky. I was tightening up the nuts and one went from righty-tighty to righty-loosy. Thankfully it was the bottom stud and was easy to get back out. I was able to source one from the local hardware store and had some extra nuts on hand from past projects so I could keep all 12mm nuts
Started reinstalling the turbo as well. The downpipe is just tacked, I need to get the transmission back before I final weld anything and I still need to route the wastegate to the downpipe. I’ll be extending the MAF wires to get them out of the danger zone as they are already pretty crispy from the last time I had it on I’m using a 3” to 2.5” reducer to help with the downpipe fitment.
Tested out the turbo blanket as well. Pretty happy about it
I upgraded my oil feed lines and drain line to non-carbon PTFE lines. They’re rated to withstand higher heat so I feel more comfortable with them but I’ll still be putting heat shielding on them. I also routed the feed line off the back of the oil filter housing (which supplies dirty oil) through a turbosmart pressure regulator that controls the oil psi at 40 psi and has a 44 micron stainless steel filter inside of it. The line is close to the exhaust manifold though and I’m not sure if I’m comfortable with it after the smoke show that happened last time. I don’t know how much it’ll move during every day driving or off road. I also discovered how close the manifold is to the oil filter housing itself. Nothing a hammer can’t solve.
Truthfully though, I may end up going with a different manifold. I love the look of this one but the packaging just doesn’t work well for me. Maybe if I was a better fabricator and had my own bender I could make it work but it looks like the oil drain line is going to have fitment issues with the wastegate exhaust line. I won’t know until I can tack the wastegate exhaust line together though.
I also got my spare tire rack figured out. I’ve been driving without a spare tire but now that I’m not near where I used to live, having a spare tire is important. It’ll fit up to a 14.5” wide tire and has room for a 37” tire. I used to nuts to service it to the bed with some M8 bolts. I picked it up from overland vehicle systems.