Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration

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You hear that @SteveH ? At the very least you should insist on minimum wage!
 
Thank you @Robs76fj40 - after @Andrew S mentioned the possible interference, I removed it, removed the teflon tape and reinstalled. I probably didn't need to, but I did anyway. /shrug. I figured the threads of the sensor are brass and intentionally a softer metal to seal on the steel plug of the oil cooler.

I've been working on each detail - this week, I've been working on restoring the PCV system, braided hose, new parts from Toyota. I had the valve cover bracket that holds the PCV line, but I was missing the manifold one. SOR to the rescue and I am working on completing that system. After I finish the fuel system, I'll work on the brake system at the firewall.

This weekend is supposed to be beautiful. The goal is to have the rest of the body pieces sans hood ready for paint. I just need a coat of feather fill, block, seal and then its ready for base.

SOAP BOX - I've been using sold trucks on Bring A Trailer (historical, as most, if not all are now South American imports) as a reference guide. There are a few on there that are survivors that have excellent photos of the "original" factory details. A couple things to note.
1. When people say they have a survivor or it is all original. I think it was @overton that had a list of funny seller quotes?
2. Liberal use of rattle cans, in the gloss black variant. The Krylon Gloss Black should ad should read, "Your car have crusty britches? Spiff em' up with just one can!"
3. Liberal use of what I call tire juice. Reminds me of "Soul Glo" hair product from "Coming to America" when the actors heads left oil stains on the sofa....
4. Restoration. I mean, I get it....even what I am doing is my best effort to "factory reset" the FJ40. That term is used liberally and can mean a million things. I think the neat thing about all of us working on these is that no matter what we do, unless it is a true survivor truck....each of our projects is nothing more than our idea of what we want the final product to be. Do I despise the unstoppable rash of Colombian and Costa Rican resto jobs that flow into Florida like kilo's of cocaine in 1990? YES. It is confusing new Toyota Land Cruiser fans. "I ordered tune-up parts for my 1978 FJ40 and it came with the wrong air filter and brake pads!"

So, I have a hard time finding trustworthy examples from which to base this restoration on. I mean factory brochures and some of the photos of survivor trucks only go so far, you know? Do any of you know of a source with detailed, high-resolution, GOOD photos of the top, bottom, inside and out of true original 1978 FJ40's? That would be a big help. I think I pester @SteveH on a daily basis for phots of this and that. He should start charging me.

Happy Friday.
I wonder if there are any color videos of the assembly line for mid 70's FJ40's. It would be awesome to see these come together at the factory. What you're doing is incredibly time consuming; a methodical system by system, bolt by bolt, research/ parts sourcing restoration. This community appreciates your work and will use your photo's as the benchmark for years to come.

Having gone through my 1976 Colombian FJ40 to bring this as "stock" as possible has been a challenge. In part, because of the lack of restoration images of factory general markets 40's. What I ended up with is a part US/General Markets truck. My goal was to go through each system using factory Toyota OEM parts to have a reliable and well running 40. After 3 years since acquiring and working on it, I've reached the end. It is as good as I have the ability to make it. It is a very different truck than what I bought on BAT 3 years ago but it will never be a 1976 US Spec Fj40.

Having learned so much about what is required to do a factory reset, in hindsight, I would never have pulled the trigger on mine and spent much more for a US Spec restoration. Most FJ40 fans will not have the knowledge to know why an imported FJ40 that looks great is worth $40-$50K vs. those that are US Specs that command $100k+.
 
@Ackcruisers You have a beautiful cruiser. I've been following and looking through your posts for the last while. I didn't mean to offend, if I did. Where I was going:
1. I really dislike the idea of lowballing Colombians/SA's and then commanding a premium on BaT or eBay or whatever.
2. New people to the Cruiser scene...either always wanted one....or their dad/family member had one growing up...are (in my opinion) not privy to the differences.
3. They buy the cruiser and then when they order stuff, it doesn't match up - and as you know, there are multiple little differences.
4. The work when they are restored down south (and even here, really) is a giant array of quality.

In short, I just feel bad. I met a guy at a cars and coffee that had a 1978 FJ40, Freeborn Red. It reminded me of that Johnny Cash song where he snatches parts over the years he works at a factory. And ended up with a 49,50,51,52,53,54,55 automobile! Did he know? Nope. Did he even care? Probably not, until he orders a 78 air filter or front brake pads. At least now, BaT clearly indicates the origin in the first sentence, as enough people likely complained.

Anyway - don't be hard on yourself, think of what you have as an anomaly, not owned by an uninformed buyer with wads of cash, but an informed cruiserhead that has gone above and beyond to build something special.

At the end of the day, that's what we are all doing, building "OUR" cruisers. I even read through @airon23 work this morning. Great stuff. This community is just awesome. I've loved it and used it for nearly 20 years. With this build I am doing now....its a love hate to be honest. It will never be "true" original, as I've replaced quarters on it, rear sill and a few other smaller pieces. I regret buying this cruiser nearly every day. Case-in-point, that smurf blue FJ40 for sale in the classifieds as we speak - THAT is a deal. A solid buy. I was filled with more crap than a broken toilet at a truck stop, when I was buying this mustard 40. Go back to the first 10 pages of this thread, you'll see what I mean. If I could have started with that blue one in the classifieds - I'd be done and enjoying a beautiful rig by now.
19k, plus travel, 20k for my cruiser and I haven't added it all up but I guarantee I am close to 50k if not more in parts, supplies, and whatever else by now. Its like a second 401k.

Two things I'll say on that. 1. I am having fun learning, documenting and working with all of you. 2. I love buying parts from this community (which by the way @ToyotaMatt send goods please) and helping in some small way keep FJ40's alive.

Thank you again @Ackcruisers for the kind words. Have a great weekend.
 
I’ll have to go back in my photos, but I can’t see why I didn’t set the rear axle studs. Did I accidentally swap front and rear?

Doesn’t look right to me.

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So in investigating why the rear axle studs are so short....I went back to my earlier post. I did not replace the wheel studs on the rear axles. Also, on page 2, I snapped this just after receiving the cruiser. So a question to the "crew" here is, are these the OEM rear studs?

After working on my 1993 911, and the various wheel combinations and stud lengths, I would sure prefer a 1/2" or so of threads exposed. If nothing else, a little peace of mind. I also don't want to have to yank the rear axles out again, after having sealed it all up.
 
The rear studs can be remove without tearing anything apart. Just remove the drum. I screwed a lug nut on to protect the threads and knocked them out. I just measured a stk stud and its 1 1/2" from under the head to the end. I installed longer studs on mine, because of rear disc brake rotor.
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Hard to tell from pics but it doesn’t look like the rear wheel hole is clearing the rear axle hub. If so, however, I don’t know why based on your parts descriptions.
 
When I was researching I didn't find anything from Toyota. There are other studs folks have used. If you use the search and enter the # from the pic you will find threads on this subject. I think they're about a 1/4" longer. I purchased from summit. Iir, Dormans site has good search and dimensional info on there studs.
 
I thought that, too @middlecalf but the hub (maybe aftermarket?) is seating on the gasket that prevents the hub from binding to the axle.

I used a rubber mallet and really seated it on there just now. Same results. Maybe Toyota just intended the lug nut to be flush…ish with the wheels stud.

Don’t mean to kick a dead horse, just making sure I have this right.
 
I think if everthing was stk, your studs should be proud of the nut like in the frt. Can you measure how long the studs are? Backside of the flange to the end.
 
I’ll research the studs and see what I can come up with. Thank you. When I get the new ones in I’ll measure.

Clutch slave soft line. I apologize for bouncing around, I’m waiting on parts to finish the fuel system and paint the cover.

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Oh mate, what an awesome resto work you are doing, congrats!
You motivate me to go ahead with my J45 pickup resto project!
 
Thank you for the PM on the reference to 90942-02079. 12 are coming from Japan. That solves the wheel stud issue on the rear axles. Fronts are perfect, and purchased for the specific year, 1978. Should you be working on your FJ40.

Thank you, @Greek Cruiserhead go get 'em!
 
Good stuff Dallas!! You've pretty much hit every obstacle on this build!! Your going to know every inch of this cruiser. Can't wait to see it completed!
 
Some older resto/project threads from @antFJ @SSCR @TEQ and @Gusb may yield photos you need of certain areas. I think all these rigs are similar era to your ‘78. Keep going, looks great!
 
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