No worries man, I can finger it out! Can you grab me that measurement w/ wheels centered? I no longer have a center link...
Build 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration
- Thread starter dmaddox
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Gratitude!!!
I am going to have to look up @GA Architect and the issues they are having.
My 40 doesn’t seem to be venting fuel vapors into the charcoal canister. It is just building pressure in the tank and then I smell fuel by the pump.
Those steering dampers are in the KYB catalog. They of course make them for Toyota, and toyota outs their big markup on them. I tried to get a KYB shipped from Australia, because they sell them as aftermarket there, but had no luck. I ended up cleaning my original and just putting new rubbers on it. $25 was a whole hell of a lot cheaper than $250 from the stealership.
$250 for the KYB w/ Toyota p/n? Hmm... Mine is not a perfect resto, so I will go for the KYB eqivalent.
I do like KYB products.
Question, do you know a way to search their catalog by dims, vs. application?
When I enter my 40, they don't show steering stabilizer, and when I search steering stabilizer, they only list by application.
I want to search steering stabilizers by length: extended and stuffed:
- Thread starter
- #728
I didn't pay 250 for that damper, that's for sure. Anyway....working on the fuel system.
Inside of the fuel tank is clean....believe it or not. I lucked out, there. The outside however, needed love.
Sanding and cleaning:
Simple green:
After cleaning and using a prep chemical (alcohol/xylene blend) I used this, as I bought too much for the frame:
I then used an undercoating on the bottom as well.
New drain plug and gasket:
Inside of the fuel tank is clean....believe it or not. I lucked out, there. The outside however, needed love.
Sanding and cleaning:
Simple green:
After cleaning and using a prep chemical (alcohol/xylene blend) I used this, as I bought too much for the frame:
I then used an undercoating on the bottom as well.
New drain plug and gasket:
- Thread starter
- #729
Continued:
From City Racer:
From Toyota:
If I recall, the fuel sender can only be installed one way. Screws are spaced to ensure this.
Oil pressure sending unit had the electrical post broken off, so I needed a new one.
Used a little teflon tape.
Onto the fuel filter and lines.
From City Racer:
From Toyota:
If I recall, the fuel sender can only be installed one way. Screws are spaced to ensure this.
Oil pressure sending unit had the electrical post broken off, so I needed a new one.
Used a little teflon tape.
Onto the fuel filter and lines.
Sometimes teflon tape on the sending units will block the electrical path through the block. If you have oil pressure reading problems, that could be the reason.
Tank restoration looks great!
Andrew
Tank restoration looks great!
Andrew
- Thread starter
- #731
Last (thank you Andrew, I'll remove the teflon tape).
I purchased a low permeating "submergible" fuel line...if such a word exists. It is marine grade and has several layers to it. This is to reduce not only cabin odor, but longevity for the fuel line. I've also read horror stories of ethanol based fuels eating some standard fuel lines. So, this is also e85 compliant. Too bad I couldn't find anything with "Made in Japan" on it. Will have to just use "Made in the good ol' USA". It is.....however....being used on a pleasure boat. So.....
I tried to find a good fabric line, but ended up using nylon braided.
test fitting, as I need to install the fuel tank cover before this line can be installed permanently.
To the fuel pump.
I have a few details to touch up here to make it look cleaner, and figure out the spark plug wire routing. Its just roughly sitting there.
New cap, of course.
I purchased a low permeating "submergible" fuel line...if such a word exists. It is marine grade and has several layers to it. This is to reduce not only cabin odor, but longevity for the fuel line. I've also read horror stories of ethanol based fuels eating some standard fuel lines. So, this is also e85 compliant. Too bad I couldn't find anything with "Made in Japan" on it. Will have to just use "Made in the good ol' USA". It is.....however....being used on a pleasure boat. So.....
I tried to find a good fabric line, but ended up using nylon braided.
test fitting, as I need to install the fuel tank cover before this line can be installed permanently.
To the fuel pump.
I have a few details to touch up here to make it look cleaner, and figure out the spark plug wire routing. Its just roughly sitting there.
New cap, of course.
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You can leave the teflon tape in place, sometimes the senders seem to read just fine with it. I've seen a couple instances where freshly rebuilt engines appear to have no oil pressure due to a taped sending unit, and panic quickly sets in. Just didn't want you to have the same issue.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
Coming along, and looks great!! For braided hose I've found VW sells ethanol safe fuel hose in metric sizes (jbugs.com or belmetric.com) instead of nylon. 10mm ID is listed below but you get the idea.
M10X15 Braided - Flennor Multifuel Hose RHM10BRAID - https://belmetric.com/m10x15-braided-flennor-multifuel-hose-rhm10braid/
Last edited:
firemanj92
SILVER Star
I don't really know, The frayed ends don't come apart like the nylon braids-they are glued to the rubber.
Last edited:
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looking great!
I was taught a long time ago by a Pipefitter to always leave the first thread bare to prevent the tape getting into the "system" and to twist the fitting into the tape as you would be when installing it so that it doesn't unravel as you actually install the fitting., just a FYI. Build looks fantastic @dmaddox!
- Thread starter
- #740
Thank you @Robs76fj40 - after @Andrew S mentioned the possible interference, I removed it, removed the teflon tape and reinstalled. I probably didn't need to, but I did anyway. /shrug. I figured the threads of the sensor are brass and intentionally a softer metal to seal on the steel plug of the oil cooler.
I've been working on each detail - this week, I've been working on restoring the PCV system, braided hose, new parts from Toyota. I had the valve cover bracket that holds the PCV line, but I was missing the manifold one. SOR to the rescue and I am working on completing that system. After I finish the fuel system, I'll work on the brake system at the firewall.
This weekend is supposed to be beautiful. The goal is to have the rest of the body pieces sans hood ready for paint. I just need a coat of feather fill, block, seal and then its ready for base.
SOAP BOX - I've been using sold trucks on Bring A Trailer (historical, as most, if not all are now South American imports) as a reference guide. There are a few on there that are survivors that have excellent photos of the "original" factory details. A couple things to note.
1. When people say they have a survivor or it is all original. I think it was @overton that had a list of funny seller quotes?
2. Liberal use of rattle cans, in the gloss black variant. The Krylon Gloss Black should ad should read, "Your car have crusty britches? Spiff em' up with just one can!"
3. Liberal use of what I call tire juice. Reminds me of "Soul Glo" hair product from "Coming to America" when the actors heads left oil stains on the sofa....
4. Restoration. I mean, I get it....even what I am doing is my best effort to "factory reset" the FJ40. That term is used liberally and can mean a million things. I think the neat thing about all of us working on these is that no matter what we do, unless it is a true survivor truck....each of our projects is nothing more than our idea of what we want the final product to be. Do I despise the unstoppable rash of Colombian and Costa Rican resto jobs that flow into Florida like kilo's of cocaine in 1990? YES. It is confusing new Toyota Land Cruiser fans. "I ordered tune-up parts for my 1978 FJ40 and it came with the wrong air filter and brake pads!"
So, I have a hard time finding trustworthy examples from which to base this restoration on. I mean factory brochures and some of the photos of survivor trucks only go so far, you know? Do any of you know of a source with detailed, high-resolution, GOOD photos of the top, bottom, inside and out of true original 1978 FJ40's? That would be a big help. I think I pester @SteveH on a daily basis for phots of this and that. He should start charging me.
Happy Friday.
I've been working on each detail - this week, I've been working on restoring the PCV system, braided hose, new parts from Toyota. I had the valve cover bracket that holds the PCV line, but I was missing the manifold one. SOR to the rescue and I am working on completing that system. After I finish the fuel system, I'll work on the brake system at the firewall.
This weekend is supposed to be beautiful. The goal is to have the rest of the body pieces sans hood ready for paint. I just need a coat of feather fill, block, seal and then its ready for base.
SOAP BOX - I've been using sold trucks on Bring A Trailer (historical, as most, if not all are now South American imports) as a reference guide. There are a few on there that are survivors that have excellent photos of the "original" factory details. A couple things to note.
1. When people say they have a survivor or it is all original. I think it was @overton that had a list of funny seller quotes?
2. Liberal use of rattle cans, in the gloss black variant. The Krylon Gloss Black should ad should read, "Your car have crusty britches? Spiff em' up with just one can!"
3. Liberal use of what I call tire juice. Reminds me of "Soul Glo" hair product from "Coming to America" when the actors heads left oil stains on the sofa....
4. Restoration. I mean, I get it....even what I am doing is my best effort to "factory reset" the FJ40. That term is used liberally and can mean a million things. I think the neat thing about all of us working on these is that no matter what we do, unless it is a true survivor truck....each of our projects is nothing more than our idea of what we want the final product to be. Do I despise the unstoppable rash of Colombian and Costa Rican resto jobs that flow into Florida like kilo's of cocaine in 1990? YES. It is confusing new Toyota Land Cruiser fans. "I ordered tune-up parts for my 1978 FJ40 and it came with the wrong air filter and brake pads!"
So, I have a hard time finding trustworthy examples from which to base this restoration on. I mean factory brochures and some of the photos of survivor trucks only go so far, you know? Do any of you know of a source with detailed, high-resolution, GOOD photos of the top, bottom, inside and out of true original 1978 FJ40's? That would be a big help. I think I pester @SteveH on a daily basis for phots of this and that. He should start charging me.
Happy Friday.