Builds 1977 Freeborn Red FJ40 Patina Build (1 Viewer)

[Jdc1]

That sucks about the botched job.

You can run a hard line around the front of the valve cover and drop down just behind the alternator. There is a nice cutout in the splash guard under the battery that’s a straight shot to the fuel tank.

 

[Honger]

At least my valve cover turned out nice.

Love the valve cover!

 

[Will Van]

That sucks about the botched job.

You can run a hard line around the front of the valve cover and drop down just behind the alternator. There is a nice cutout in the splash guard under the battery that’s a straight shot to the fuel tank.

Which hard lines do you recommend? Are any good hardlines malleable by hand? Or do you need a tube bender?

Love the valve cover!

Thanks!

 

[Jdc1]

Which hard lines do you recommend? Are any good hardlines malleable by hand? Or do you need a tube bender?




Thanks!

I’m using 3/8” Nicopp and -6AN fittings. It takes a minute to figure out the bends but I really like doing it. There are benders available on Amazon. Brake lines in Nicopp are easy too. The cheap flaring tools are frustrating, IIRC, there are compression fittings available in AN as well.

 

[Will Van]

I’m using 3/8” Nicopp and -6AN fittings. It takes a minute to figure out the bends but I really like doing it. There are benders available on Amazon. Brake lines in Nicopp are easy too. The cheap flaring tools are frustrating, IIRC, there are compression fittings available in AN as well.
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Wow! Nice!

Pics of the return hardline?

 

[Jdc1]

Wow! Nice!

Pics of the return hardline?

I’m using an LS regulator and plugging the regulator on the Sniper.

 

[Will Van]

Well after the botched job on the braided fuel lines, I decided to take a step back and reevaluate my fuel setup.

At @Jdc1's example, I tried flaring my own hardlines. I randomly had the tools to bend and flare 3/8" stainless steel tubing (and some extra tube) from a different project. I thought to myself, "What the hell, you've got the tools anyway. Take a crack at it."

My first lines turned out really well, so I started ordering more material from Summit. I also blatantly stole @Jdc1's LS regulator idea, and ran just one supply hardline. Speedway Motors has an LS regulator with -6AN fittings already brazed on to the hardline, which simplifies the install.

I think the stainless hardlines turned out really clean.

I was able to anchor the fuel line to the thermostat housing.

And also anchor it at the fuel pump block off.

No leaks!!!

 

[Jdc1]

Well after the botched job on the braided fuel lines, I decided to take a step back and reevaluate my fuel setup.

At @Jdc1's example, I tried flaring my own hardlines. I randomly had the tools to bend and flare 3/8" stainless steel tubing (and some extra tube) from a different project. I thought to myself, "What the hell, you've got the tools anyway. Take a crack at it."

My first lines turned out really well, so I started ordering more material from Summit. I also blatantly stole @Jdc1's LS regulator idea, and ran just one supply hardline. Speedway Motors has an LS regulator with -6AN fittings already brazed on to the hardline, which simplifies the install.

I think the stainless hardlines turned out really clean.

I was able to anchor the fuel line to the thermostat housing.

And also anchor it at the fuel pump block off.

No leaks!!!

Looks great. I can’t take any credit for the LS regulator, @FJ60Cam mentioned it in one of his threads and I researched it on the Sniper forum.

Did you fire it up yet?

 

[Will Van]

Once I got the fuel lines plumbed, I decided to fire up the truck and test the Holley Sniper.

It's alive!!! Running a straight header, so it's really loud.


Unfortunately I have a fairly significant vacuum leak, which is why it's idling so high. It appears the OEM carb heat shield interferes with the Sniper adapter plate.

I may just convert to the early-style carb insulator from SOR and delete the heat shield altogether. Are the bolt patterns the same?

I also have a couple of coolant leaks that I'm not thrilled about.

One at one of the thermostat (was I supposed to add sealant to the threads?)

And the other at the Holley Sniper coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the block. The port in the block is 3/8" BSPT and the Sniper temp sensor is 3/8" NPT. I used a brass adapter, but I think the thread sealant pre-applied to the Sniper temp threads is cheap. I suppose this means I have to drain all the coolant to apply thread sealant?

 

[navydivedoc]

This setup looks fantastic. Almost a shame to get it done so you can drop in the diesel!

 

[Will Van]

I think I’m just going to convert to this adapter from Redline Land Cruisers. I think it will make the install cleaner, since it’s one piece, rather than multiple layers of insulator/heat shield, gaskets, and Sniper adapter. It’s all just once piece.

I’m going to call Redline tomorrow morning.

 

[Will Van]

I'm still battling coolant leak issues. I was able to fix the leak between the upper and lower thermostat housing with a fresh gasket, Gasgacinch, and proper torque (144 in-lbs). But now it's leaking at the upper inlet hose. I

may have the wrong hose? It seems to fit really high on the water pipe inlet.

I may also have the clamp positioned in the wrong place. The end of the hard pipe is marked with black sharpie. Does the clamp need to be closer to the end of the coolant pipe?

 

[FJBen]

I'm still battling coolant leak issues. I was able to fix the leak between the upper and lower thermostat housing with a fresh gasket, Gasgacinch, and proper torque (144 in-lbs). But now it's leaking at the upper inlet hose. I

may have the wrong hose? It seems to fit really high on the water pipe inlet.

I may also have the clamp positioned in the wrong place. The end of the hard pipe is marked with black sharpie. Does the clamp need to be closer to the end of the coolant pipe?

I personally like the OEM style clamps over the screw type, even the fancy ones. They seem to seal better. It should be able to deal though. Is than an OEM hose or aftermarket? I find as well with the non-metric hoses it’s harder for a correct seal.
City racer sells these in stainless. Sweet.

 

[Fire83]

This set up looks super clean. Cam at Mosley is the man if you are having problems with the sniper.

 

[Will Van]

This set up looks super clean. Cam at Mosley is the man if you are having problems with the sniper.

Yeah, Cam is awesome!

Right now I’m having trouble with coolant leaks. Waiting on parts. Then I should be able to fire it up and set timing. Then exhaust.

 

[Will Van]

Sorry it's been so long since my last update. I was battling a coolant leak FOREVER. I finally swapped over to the late-model 4-bolt style upper and lower thermostat housing, which solved the problem.

It's finally out of the garage...


...and in the fabrication shop getting an exhaust and skid plate.

 

[navydivedoc]

Holy short driveshaft batman!

 

[Will Van]

Holy short driveshaft batman!

Yeah, with the H55F, split case, and rear parking drum, it’s pretty short. I think it was about 17” flange-to-flange. But the guys at Tom Woods DS weren’t concerned about it.

 

[navydivedoc]

Yeah, with the H55F, split case, and rear parking drum, it’s pretty short. I think it was about 17” flange-to-flange. But the guys at Tom Woods DS weren’t concerned about it.

Just giving you a hard time. I've wheeled with guys in Jeeps that had shorter than that, no issues. Tom Woods rock, will be going into my 67. Truck looks great.

 

[Will Van]

My fabricator finished the 3" exhaust and skid plate yesterday morning.

After buttoning up a few items, I took it for a shakedown run out to the lake. I put about 60 miles of mixed driving on it and I'm getting a LOT of gear whine at highway speeds. I'm not sure if it's the H55F, the 1.1:1/4:1 split t-case gears, or the 4.56 diff gears. It's loud AF. Spinning about 2,500 RPM at 55mph.

After the shakedown run, I have a few items I need to address:

The valve cover gasket is leaking. I installed a brand new gasket when I powder coated the valve cover. For now I am just going to snug it down and see if it will stop. If not, I'll pull the cover and try to re-seal it with some Gasgacinch.

I just vented the gas tank through the fuel separator and out the cab to atmosphere near the rear tire. On really steep grades when the tank is full, it will dump fuel out the breather line. I might route it somewhere up high to prevent dumping fuel while 'wheeling.

Finally, the Sniper is making a high-pitched whine. I think it's the fuel pressure regulator on the Sniper. Since I'm running a separate GM fuel regulator/filter, I just capped the regulator/return on the Sniper. You can really hear it at the end of the video when the engine shuts down.