Build 1977 Freeborn Red FJ40 Patina Build

[FJBen]

My fabricator finished the 3" exhaust and skid plate yesterday morning.

After buttoning up a few items, I took it for a shakedown run out to the lake. I put about 60 miles of mixed driving on it and I'm getting a LOT of gear whine at highway speeds. I'm not sure if it's the H55F, the 1.1:1/4:1 split t-case gears, or the 4.56 diff gears. It's loud AF. Spinning about 2,500 RPM at 55mph.

After the shakedown run, I have a few items I need to address:

The valve cover gasket is leaking. I installed a brand new gasket when I powder coated the valve cover. For now I am just going to snug it down and see if it will stop. If not, I'll pull the cover and try to re-seal it with some Gasgacinch.

I just vented the gas tank through the fuel separator and out the cab to atmosphere near the rear tire. On really steep grades when the tank is full, it will dump fuel out the breather line. I might route it somewhere up high to prevent dumping fuel while 'wheeling.

Finally, the Sniper is making a high-pitched whine. I think it's the fuel pressure regulator on the Sniper. Since I'm running a separate GM fuel regulator/filter, I just capped the regulator/return on the Sniper. You can really hear it at the end of the video when the engine shuts down.

If I had to guess, it’s those 4 to 1 tcase gears. Those are notorious especially at first for being loud and having whine. Add to the fact you have zero insulation in a 40, it’s loud.

 

[Will Van]

If I had to guess, it’s those 4 to 1 tcase gears. Those are notorious especially at first for being loud and having whine. Add to the fact you have zero insulation in a 40, it’s loud.

Agreed. I think it's the t-case gears. They were loud as hell yesterday. But they seem to be breaking in. They're not as loud today.

 

[matzell]

Did I miss it, but why so much gear in the axles? 4:56 over 4:10's for 33's? White wheels rock by the way.

 

[Will Van]

Did I miss it, but why so much gear in the axles? 4:56 over 4:10's for 33's? White wheels rock by the way.

That's what Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters recommended when I purchased the ARB lockers. In hindsight, I should have kept the 4.10s or even gone to 3.70s. It will definitely go to 3.70s if/when I swap to diesel.

But right now it's got an H55F, 1.1:1 High, 4:1 Low, and 4.56 diff gears. I'm trying to just embrace the crawl-aspect of the truck and enjoy it!

 

[Will Van]

Did I miss it, but why so much gear in the axles? 4:56 over 4:10's for 33's? White wheels rock by the way.

Also, thank you for the compliment on the white wheels! I vacillated between white, black, and grey.

 

[Varty Yo]

That exhaust looks sweet!!!

 

[Will Van]

That exhaust looks sweet!!!

Thanks so much! The fabricator did a really good job. I used a Solo Performance Stealth series muffler, which is really quiet. The gears are much louder than the exhaust!

It should also pair nicely if I ever swap to a 2H or 12HT diesel.

 

[Will Van]

I was able to modify the fuel tank breather line and extend it up to the front passenger wheel well. That fixed the fuel dumping issue on steep inclines. It's geared so low it will go down The Hill at our lake property without touching the brakes. And it will go up The Hill without touching the throttle. (It's hard to get any perspective on camera of The Hill. But most 4WDs can't do it at all. Typically have to be locked.)

It also cruises at 65 mph at about 2,800 rpm. That's a little high for my liking, but I'm trying to just enjoy the truck/gearing for what it is.

Here are a few pics. Added stickers too. The Wasatch National Forest is a nod to my mentor who got me involved in Land Cruisers. He lived at the base of the Wasatch in SLC Utah and would take his Cruiser up the ski resort mountains in the summer (back in the early '70s when you could do s*** like that). His last Cruiser was Freeborn Red too.

I'm continuing to shake the truck down and drive it. The gear whine is still annoying, but the Sniper FPR is unbearable. It makes SO MUCH NOISE. I'll have to figure out a way to disable it and just run the LS return-less filter/regulator.

I really need to get the truck inspected and registered, but that has proven to be difficult lately due to Coronavirus.

Not sure what's next for the truck. Probably A/C and a radio. Maybe some outback drawers to store gear. Maybe nothing and save my pennies for diesel.

 

[Will Van]

Well, some good news and some bad news.

The BAD:
Yesterday I got a state inspection for the truck so I can drive it legally. I noticed a lot of clunking from the drivetrain, so I took it to my buddy's shop who specializes in Toyotas and Land Cruisers. The driveline clunk was just normal/standard Toyota looseness in the drivetrain and a lack of ANY insulation. One of the 4WD shifters for the twin-sticks is rubbing on the trans tunnel, but I think I'll just live with it for now.

However, he found tons of leaks - coolant, oil, and vacuum.

The Dakota Digital water temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator is leaking. I used liquid Permatex thread sealant with PTFE, and it can't hold up to the heat/coolant. I had already had the same problem with the Holley Sniper temp sensor in the block, and re-threaded it with Permatex sealant specifically for water pumps and gaskets. It's holding up fine. I should have done the Dakota temp sensor at the same time.

It's also leaking oil at the front timing cover, oil pan, valve cover, and perhaps the rear main seal. This is especially frustrating because it's the whole reason I pulled the engine in the first place. To reseal it and get it dry. However, I've talked to several Toyota guys, and they all say getting the 2F to seal is notoriously difficult. It doesn't leak much oil. It just annoying more than anything. Again, I'll probably just live with it. (For the record, I followed Poser's writeup to the T).

Finally, the Redline adapter plate for the Sniper is leaking at the intake manifold. That's what is causing the loud whistling sound. I know the Redline adapter is perfectly flat, so I'll probably pull the Sniper and try to figure out what's going on. I may have to pull the intake manifold to machine the mating surface, then reinstall.

Overall, I'm kinda irritated that things didn't go back together perfectly after I spent so much time being OCD in reassembly. However, one of the reasons I'm not too worried about the oil leak is below.

The GOOD:
All of my HJ47 2H/12HT stuff is in from Australia!!! (It's a miracle - given the current state of Coronavirus - that anything arrived at all).

Pictured are the left/right engine mounts, clutch fork, bearing carrier, (un-clocked) bellhousing, and left/right bellhousing-to-block braces.

Engine mounts. I was waiting on the left-hand engine mount (on the right in the picture), which arrived today.

Clutch fork and bearing carrier.

Bellhousing

Bellhousing to engine block braces. (Can anyone confirm that the braces are the same for HJ47 and HJ75?)

Obviously I still need a 2H or 12HT engine. But I feel like these are the "hard-to-find" parts for this particular diesel swap. I see 2H's pop up in classifieds fairly regularly.

I also still have Wayne/Crushers 1HZ swap kit if I want to keep my options open. But I think I prefer the 2H/12HT swap. Yes, the 1HZ is arguably a better engine. Certainly more modern with better parts availability. But I like that the 2H/12HT is "bolt in" with these components and works with my current H55F input shaft. Plus, the exhaust is on the correct side. It doesn't hang below the frame rail. And I don't have to re-do the whole exhaust to reposition it on the passenger's side (where there is no room because of the t-case). I may have to figure out the steering shaft if I go 12HT. I have read the steering assembly is really tight to the turbo/manifold.

I'll keep rocking the 2F and saving my pennies for a diesel donor engine.

That's all for now. I'll update once I resolve the intake manifold leak.

 

[matzell]

Not to rain on your parade, but have you looked into the rpm range of the diesel engines? Most do not like to rev very high. I would imagine that 2800 might be close to red line on one.

 

[Will Van]

Not to rain on your parade, but have you looked into the rpm range of the diesel engines? Most do not like to rev very high. I would imagine that 2800 might be close to red line on one.

The OEM redline for the 2F is 4,000 RPM. The redline for both the 2H and 12HT is 4,100 RPM to 4,170 RPM.


So I would certainly be no worse than my current setup.

 

[mrboatman]

If you have a shifter rubbing on the trans tunnel it will amplify your gear wine. Also I`m running stock 4.11 gearing with 33/10.5 tires and 2800 rpm = 65 mph also.
JP

 

[AlbertoSD]

Hey Will,

Regarding your quest for the 2H or 12HT, I think the best two folks to talk to are Roma @roma042987 and Michael @Michael B (which you might know all this already). Roma has also done a 1HZ into a 40-series (same as Wayne @crushers have done multiple times).

Roma has built a few 12HT engines and have done some amazing conversions. He is super familiar with these engines. Here is one of his links:

Builds - 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion

Michael did a 12HT conversion on his 45, and he might be able to help you with the steering shaft part of your conversion. Here is Michael's work:

Builds - My 78' Barn find FJ45

In all this, you might want to re-gear your axles to 4.10 or 3.73. Gasoline engines are semi-happy holding high rpms for extended periods of time. Diesel engines are not so happy doing so. You will need to closely watch your EGT's in order to keep your engine happy and reliable.

If this was my project, my only two engine options would be a 12HT or a 1HZ. I think you would be disappointed with a 2H. The 2H's are nice engines but not very fuel efficient (reportedly, 3B's yield better fuel economy than a 2H) and the 2H's are becoming hard to source parts for.

Hope this helps, but I am sure I am not saying anything that you don't know already

Keep up the good work, Will!!

-Alberto

 

[roma042987]

Will I suspect you will run into some alternator and ac compressor mounting issues if you decide to run ac. That early left side engine block bracket has a provision for the lower alternator which if used will not play nice with 12ht (late model 2h style) ac and alternator mount. I tried explaining this to you in your other thread but perhaps you decided not to run ac. If that is the case you also want to source the rest of the early style 2h alternator bracket (upper). Hope all that makes sense. If needed I can clarify with photos. What you technically wanted was an early 2h (hj60) left side mount or you can cut the alternator provision off yours.

 

[Will Van]

Hey Will,

Regarding your quest for the 2H or 12HT, I think the best two folks to talk to are Roma @roma042987 and Michael @Michael B (which you might know all this already). Roma has also done a 1HZ into a 40-series (same as Wayne @crushers have done multiple times).

Roma has built a few 12HT engines and have done some amazing conversions. He is super familiar with these engines. Here is one of his links:

Builds - 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion

Michael did a 12HT conversion on his 45, and he might be able to help you with the steering shaft part of your conversion. Here is Michael's work:

Builds - My 78' Barn find FJ45

In all this, you might want to re-gear your axles to 4.10 or 3.73. Gasoline engines are semi-happy holding high rpms for extended periods of time. Diesel engines are not so happy doing so. You will need to closely watch your EGT's in order to keep your engine happy and reliable.

If this was my project, my only two engine options would be a 12HT or a 1HZ. I think you would be disappointed with a 2H. The 2H's are nice engines but not very fuel efficient (reportedly, 3B's yield better fuel economy than a 2H) and the 2H's are becoming hard to source parts for.

Hope this helps, but I am sure I am not saying anything that you don't know already

Keep up the good work, Will!!

-Alberto

Thanks so much, Alberto. I have actually reached out to both Roma and Michael.

On the gears - 4.56 diff gears might have been a mistake. That was early in my build process and I just took the advice of the reputable vendor I purchased the ARB air lockers from. I'm not even certain they're "wrong" per se. With the 33" tires, 4:1 t-case low, and H55F 1st gear low, the truck crawls over anything at idle, which is exactly what I wanted. But they're not great for highway driving. The truck would be unstoppable off-road with this gearing and a diesel because of all the low-end torque. But again, not great on the highway. The truck is a handful at 60+ mph anyway.

My plan is to do the diesel swap before I make any more changes to the gearing. Down the road I would ideally like a full-float rear axle and Harrop e-lockers. So that would be an opportunity to swap diff gears at that time. Probably to 3.7. But I still have my old 4.10s. But my main focus right now is to finish shaking down the truck, enjoy it, and find a diesel engine donor. Maybe do some small driver mods like A/C, power steering, and radio. But the ultimate goal is diesel.

In regards to which diesel engine, I'm 99% sure I'll hold out for the 12HT. Yes, they are more expensive and have less parts availability. But so far I have been able to locate the most difficult parts without much headache. Australia and Germany/Denmark seem to have most everything. It makes comparable power/torque to the 1HZ and is easier to turn up because of the turbo. Plus, it's not like ANY of these Toyota parts are easy to find anymore. Hell, 2F parts are a PITA too.

The turn-key/bolt-on convenience is also a huge factor. Based on my research, the 12HT just seems to fit the 40 series chassis better. Which makes sense, because it is the younger brother of the H/2H, which actually went into the HJ4X series chassis.

Will I suspect you will run into some alternator and ac compressor mounting issues if you decide to run ac. That early left side engine block bracket has a provision for the lower alternator which if used will not play nice with 12ht (late model 2h style) ac and alternator mount. I tried explaining this to you in your other thread but perhaps you decided not to run ac. If that is the case you also want to source the rest of the early style 2h alternator bracket (upper). Hope all that makes sense. If needed I can clarify with photos. What you technically wanted was an early 2h (hj60) left side mount or you can cut the alternator provision off yours.

Apologies, I must have missed (or misunderstood) your explanation about the A/C and alternator brackets/engine-mounts for the 2H/12HT engine. It sounds like I actually need a late-style left engine mount bracket with the updated alternator and a/c provision.

Is this correct?

Or otherwise I can run no A/C (with the engine brackets I currently have), but I will also need to source an early-style alternator bracket, correct?

Thanks!

 

[Will Van]

Well, I figured out my (second) vacuum leak with the Holley Sniper.

The first Holley Sniper kit I purchased was from Cam Mosley at Mosley Motors. Cam has been absolutely awesome to work with and is always available for tech support. Without fail - nights and weekends - he is there to help me troubleshoot and diagnose anything going on with the Cruiser. Including parts and work he didn't provide. Top notch guy. However, his adapter plate for the Sniper FJ40 setup interfered with the heat shield/carb insulator and was causing a massive vacuum leak.

Rather than modify my heat shield, I decided to purchase the Redline Land Cruisers Holley Sniper adapter plate from Justin, and delete the heat shield altogether. The Redline plate is absolutely beautiful and machined out of billet aluminum.

(In hindsight, I wish I would have purchased his throttle cable kit instead of hacking up my throttle pedal and drilling my firewall into Swiss cheese. But I digress).

Earlier in the thread I mentioned that after installing the Redline setup my truck was running well, but was constantly making a screaming/whistling sound at idle. I assumed it was the extra fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper, because I'm running an extra LS regulator/filter. I pulled the extra FPR but it was still screaming. Finally, I took it to my buddy's shop and he diagnosed it as a vacuum leak almost immediately. Sure enough, you could put your finger on the gasket between the intake manifold and Redline adapter plate and hear the vacuum leak. I assumed that my intake manifold flange was warped because I knew the adapter plate was perfect. I pulled the intake manifold and figured I would have to get the flange surfaced and then reinstall.

After inspecting the intake manifold flange, it didn't look that warped or out-of-wack. It was marred slightly, but certainly nothing to indicate the massive vacuum leak at the gasket. For the hell of it I decided to dry fit the Redline adapter to the OEM intake manifold.

The intake manifold has four bolts that thread into the mouth to hold the adapter plate in place. Two of them are straight-through threads to the inside of the intake, and two of them are blind threads.

The Redline adapter plate kit is supplied with two sets of bolts and instructions. For the open thread ports you are to use the "long" bolts (with sealant to prevent vacuum leaks) and for the blind thread ports you are to use the "short" bolts. The problem is, even when correctly installing the "short" bolts, the bolts bottom out in the bottom of the blind threads before the intake adapter is cinched down against the manifold. The other two straight-through threads were cinched tight, but not enough to prevent the vacuum leak. I simply never noticed when I torqued them to 10 ft-lbs that they were bottoming out.

This is a pic of the two "short" bolts torqued all the way down and bottoming out in the manifold. Pretty large gap.

Initially I tried to drill and tap the blind threads, but my hand tap was too cheesy to cut the threads in aluminum.

I didn't want to break my tap, so I ended up just cutting the "short" bolts even shorter. I'll have to use sealant on these too to prevent vacuum leaks to atmosphere (since I already drilled the blind threads through).

Pretty frustrated, but glad I figured it out. Now I'm just waiting on replacement gaskets to reassemble. Should I go ahead and replace my Remflex intake/exhaust gasket since I had to pull the intake manifold? It wasn't leaking at the head before, but I don't want it to start either.

 

[roma042987]

I think you got it other than the bracket pictured last, the one you want, is technically an early hj60 bracket not late.

 

[Will Van]

I think you got it other than the bracket pictured last, the one you want, is technically an early hj60 bracket not late.

Will the early HJ60 bracket work in the 40 series? Do you have a photo?

 

[roma042987]

Will the early HJ60 bracket work in the 40 series? Do you have a photo?

Yes. you have a photo of it above.

 

[FJBen]

Nice, you won't be disappointed with a 12HT at all.

I agree the 4.56 are going to be too much unless you jump up to 35's or bigger.

In my BJ74, 13BT>H55F>4.10's>255x85r16's ( tall 33's) I'm running 2350~2400rpms at 65mph. Some 33's are notoriously small, I'm looking at you BFG.

On a 12HT your max torque comes around 2000ish from all I've read.

All this said, these engines will most likely run that RPM all day and not complain. You will probably however complain about noise and MPG rolling 2800+rpms all day on a trip. Most say their best mileage is under 2500rpms. Mine seems to love 2000-2200rpms