Builds 1975 Red (green) Money pit

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Tommy, if you don’t want to drop the transmission to see if you can run a tap through the hole, then run a bolt a little bit longer that will go through the bellhousing and put a nut on the inside. It’s 12x1.25. I think a stock tow hook bolt should work for you.
 
You could also one of those steel inserts to return to the factory thread. The drill threw and use a longer bolt with a nut is likely the easiest and most cost effective.
 
It’s been slow going. Not to mention hot AF.
Partly done with frame. Using chassis saver and then spraying engine
Tommy, if you don’t want to drop the transmission to see if you can run a tap through the hole, then run a bolt a little bit longer that will go through the bellhousing and put a nut on the inside. It’s 12x1.25. I think a stock tow hook bolt should work for you.
Have to rebuild trans. Needs synchro gears, and clutch and pressure plate.
So guess I will look into the insert method.
 
Anyone order one of these? Really thinking about it.
Wondering about how it looks/fits compared to OEM.

Thanks

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There’s a carriage bolt that slides into the bottom of the step, goes through a cushion and fastened to what you have there with a nut. You can buy a replacement cushion as a ~1/4” thick piece of rubber.

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THANKS!
 
Question for you paint gurus.
Currently I have everything covered in epoxy primer.
I have my 2k primer ready to spray, but I don't think I will be able to spray color for at least a few months.
Would it be okay to go ahead and spray 2k primer and just scuff later before I spray color? Especially since the 2k will have shrinkage. It will have plenty of time to go through that process before I spray color.

thoughts....??
 
Question for you paint gurus.
Currently I have everything covered in epoxy primer.
I have my 2k primer ready to spray, but I don't think I will be able to spray color for at least a few months.
Would it be okay to go ahead and spray 2k primer and just scuff later before I spray color? Especially since the 2k will have shrinkage. It will have plenty of time to go through that process before I spray color.

thoughts....??
Yes, but you'll have more prep work than scuffing to do.

Also, regarding your Topnault hood question, take a look at @dmaddox's latest build, post #1201. He wasn't happy at all.
 
Been very slow going right now. Worked on a few small parts that need my attention.
So what are you guys using for paint on this part, fan shroud and the radiator housing?
Chassis saver?

Also looking to replace radiator with an aluminum one. Best ones out there?

Thanks!
Tommy

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Been very slow going right now. Worked on a few small parts that need my attention.
So what are you guys using for paint on this part, fan shroud and the radiator housing?
Chassis saver?

Also looking to replace radiator with an aluminum one. Best ones out there?

Thanks!
Tommy

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I use satin enamel black with preparation being key. Lasts and is easy to touch up.

I have not heard good things about aluminum radiators for our 40’s. Aren’t the OE ones still available?
 
/this\

I am not a fan of the aluminum radiator. Never installed one, but I’ve pulled a few out! As a matter of fact I just pulled a very nice leak-free aluminum rad out of the TekTEQ cruiser. I’m sure she would let it go cheap. And I’ve got the Toyota box her replacement came in that I could ship it in. LM K
 
/this\

I am not a fan of the aluminum radiator. Never installed one, but I’ve pulled a few out! As a matter of fact I just pulled a very nice leak-free aluminum rad out of the TekTEQ cruiser. I’m sure she would let it go cheap. And I’ve got the Toyota box her replacement came in that I could ship it in. LM K
Well.... Sounds like I should just stick with the stock one. I assumed it would be better here in Texas 100 deg summers. :oops:
 

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