1965 FJ45 LWB Saving a Survivor (1 Viewer)

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About 12k newer than my 02/64 motor. Just wondering because mine was odd size (non-metric 7/16”, possibly 11mm dia.), also the water pump bolts. No obvious reason why (e.g. nurserts), I thought they were suppose to be 12mm (?).
 
And finally current state of affairs...started tearing off the carb in preparation for exhaust manifold gasket. Looks like spacer plater between carb and intake with vacuum port is shaky and cracked so I’ll have to work on that too.

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Check with Marks Off Road, he might have spacers for under the carb if you need to replace yours.
 
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Few questions:

1) pulled exhaust manifold today and notice on my intake ports (round) there are insert rings on both my outside ports but not my middle. Should there be three? Check intake and positive I didn’t drop anything. Sleeve is circled in yellow.

2) pulled valve cover it is crazy clean in here. I’ve never been inside a 135 before. Does it look like works been done? Underside of valve cover is spotless.

3) oil filter hoses are in rough shape. Is anyone repopping these to spec?

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Been using evapoRust for years, but this 3 gallon bucket / basket combo from amazon just upped the game.

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That IS a really clean rocker arm area, but not sure why the different looking springs/caps? I wasn’t able to find repopped oil lines, but SOR has third party SS ones with fittings. Maybe a business that makes hoses for trucks etc, could replicate them?
 
That IS a really clean rocker arm area, but not sure why the different looking springs/caps? I wasn’t able to find repopped oil lines, but SOR has third party SS ones with fittings. Maybe a business that makes hoses for trucks etc, could replicate them?

Ive never cracked open a 135, but it doesnt look 55 years old.
 
That IS a really clean rocker arm area, but not sure why the different looking springs/caps? I wasn’t able to find repopped oil lines, but SOR has third party SS ones with fittings. Maybe a business that makes hoses for trucks etc, could replicate them?

Also, there look to be several companies making customer braided line with AN ends. Might be an option to try.
 
Exhaust valves have the caps to reduce oil going past the valve stem!

What do you think about the missing sleeve in my intake ports?
 
And finally current state of affairs...started tearing off the carb in preparation for exhaust manifold gasket. Looks like spacer plater between carb and intake with vacuum port is shaky and cracked so I’ll have to work on that too.

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Your SD40 won’t need a spacer I dont think
 
What do you think about the missing sleeve in my intake ports?

My guess is that those are alignment dowels and only 2 are needed. Maybe I am wrong though.....
Big block fords(FE series) used something similar between the block and the heads.
 
The block has 2 alignment dowels and they should be on the bottom between the block and head. Look down into your block and confirm your head gasket is aligned properly with the cylinders. @FJ60Cam has a poorly running 40 in his shop once that had the head gasket on backwards. It ran, but not good.
 
That IS a really clean rocker arm area, but not sure why the different looking springs/caps? I wasn’t able to find repopped oil lines, but SOR has third party SS ones with fittings. Maybe a business that makes hoses for trucks etc, could replicate them?
I ended up ordering the SOR SS ones just to have an extra set. Thanks for the recommend.
 
The block has 2 alignment dowels and they should be on the bottom between the block and head. Look down into your block and confirm your head gasket is aligned properly with the cylinders. @FJ60Cam has a poorly running 40 in his shop once that had the head gasket on backwards. It ran, but not good.

This truck ran fine. The dowels I am asking about are coming off of the side of the head on the two outer intake ports.
 
I think I have everything ordered and sorted out. The last piece of the puzzle I am putting together is some fuel lines running from the new glass bowl filter I got from @ToyotaMatt . I have the hard line running on the frame and need a new line from it to the filter and then the filter to the pump. This is a NOS period correct filter so I need the ends to match. I believe he sent me new compression nuts. Can anybody point me in the right direction here? Should I try and do braided line, hard copper line? Any advice would be appreciated. This pic is stolen from the GOAT, but those are the lines I am looking for.

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