Builds 1961 fj40l factory soft top (2 Viewers)

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You are a brave man pulling those manifold bolts dry.
Last guy that did them apparently put never seize on them.
I leaned on the first one to see what would happen, and it was half loose, the rest followed right along.
 
Ala ka zim.....pooff

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yup, you have to drill out the spot welds. you will see them on the backside as the little round divots. there is a special tool to drill them out and do it delicately...you're only drilling through the back, not the front side, so just go slow and keep checking to see if it has broken through or is close. you can see all the holes i drilled out on annies

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the tool you need will look like this.

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Yeah I once I tracked the aforementioned thread down, it became quite clear what's going on....a quick once over with a wire brush and the spot welds popped out .
 
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Originally i think you can get the rubber out and back in without drilling out spot welds. I did it once before ( cant find thread ).
Once remaining rubber is out you have to modify current rubber replacements by cutting out the center ( like the one in photo) and then stuffing it back into the metal door/vent.
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I thought I would post to your thread with some great news...




Your new custom 1961 FJ40 harness has been built and is ready to ship!
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Now before anyone says, "Wait! I thought you were no longer building harnesses!" It is true. I am not doing this on a commercial level anymore.
However I owed a favor to someone, and agreed to take on this project so I could document this early harness, and help Brian get this great example of a 1961 FJ40L going. Brian was willing to ship me his mangled OEM factory harness set for me to document. It was the year range (61-62) FJ40 harness I had never documented. It was actually in pretty good shape considering all that had happened to it over the years...

I made several mods to the main cowl harness. I added the ability to run a later alternator but keep it on the drivers side. This involved having to also add the alternator regulator wiring.
I also added a 1972 and later style fusible link to this harness as the OEM harness had had a major meltdown in the charge circuit. I also moved the ignition wiring to the passenger fender so Brian could run a later 70's Ignition system with an igniter. Then I relocated the Oil Pressure Sending Unit wiring to the passenger side engine to support the 2F. Since the 2F will run a carb with an idle solenoid, I added that power wire by tapping into the 4WD light circuit .Last I added a 2 pin key switched power port connector with ground and +12V to the spare fuse on the new style fuse panel and routed that through the ACC terminal on the key switch. This was made easier due to the style of fuse panel Brian elected to run. It has the ability to have the power buss connections come in on either side of the panel by simply moving the buss jumpers. You can cut the buss bars to isolate a fuse which is what I did for the ACC power connection.

The full harness kit includes the custom main cowl harness, rear chassis harness (with added grounds for the tail lights) , the wiper harness, the bib harness, the gauge cluster harness, and the dash turn light indicator harness.

I will continue to watch this thread to see how this truck turns out.
 
This is just great, and I can't thank you enough for taking this job.
I can deal, almost effortlessly, with anything involving metal like material....but electricity and that gold colored material it flows through....is my kryptonite...even something as basic as these harnesses would have eaten my lunch.
 
Man, it's going to take you a long time to get that FD engaged with that hand pump mechanism. Maybe try some engine vacuum.

What? :p
 
A few things showed up, but still no real surprises once it was stripped. The frame is looking to make the same trip.

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Now for a trip through the cabinet full of hopes and dreams.

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