Builds 1961 fj40l factory soft top (2 Viewers)

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Tapping out a few of its bruises.

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What is the thread size on this guy?
10mm seems to tight and 9mm is too loose?

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M10x1.25. Just tap it, don't drill it out any bigger. Proof here:

 
international harvester white strikes again, ill use body color to fill in the embossing on the bezel.
Need to take a look at the speedo to figure out what's going on with the needle resting position.

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Going to use the original hood hinges off my 75(replaced with new oem years ago) for now, till I'm able to source at least one if not both hinges...one is completely blown out, the other may be workable.
I need to find windshield hinges as well.
Working on coming up with gasket material for the early gas cap.
Dropped the hood spear off in the machine shop to see if those guys can't make one out of type 303 or 304 stainless.

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is the problem actually the switch, or is it the chamber? the diaphram in the chamber is a common failure point
 
I thought that it wasn't holding vacuum to just one side or the other, but a quick and dirty check with the shop vacuum says that it is good....will hook it up to the intake on the 75 later to verify.

So then what about resources for the diaphragm on the transfer?
 
Here’s a couple links:


 
This looks promising...though I'll need to work on freeing the linkage up.
The switch passed my improvised vacuum test on the 75 as well.
I noticed that later cruisers have a check valve in the vacuum line to the switch, mine didn't, the hard line doesn't appear to have been cut.

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Agreed, they look cool.

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@brian what are you going to do for a front bumper? I bought a new silver OEM one that I plan on using but it's going to stand out a bit I think. I was debating on picking up some new bumperettes to match but I like the body color look. The drivers side is pretty banged up but I think I can straighten it.
Not cheesey! Check out @oregonfj and his early '64:
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Although his front bumper is pewter.
 
I made half an effort to see if I could rotate the engine any, and with a few ugga duggas, I couldn't get it to move at all.....and that wraps up any effort I'm putting in to that, moving forward with the 2f.
Thinking about salvaging the top tank off the rad and putting it on a new one...I guess it's another one of those 20 series carry over things.

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Put the sears to work and drug the chassis around to front of the garage.
With a small pry bar on the flywheel, it actually turns out over quite easily.
The clutch is about 90% smoked, looks like they did one last massive burnout, as the driver side rear tire is about bald, but the other three are nearly full tread.
There's was also a major short in the charge circuit that melted a good bit of that portion of the harness.

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Removed the front counterweight.....luckily the guy that welded it on....didn't really weld it on.
And while a grinder was warmed up I went looking for the frame number.

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