Try using just tint (paint without the binder in it) instead of paint. It should improve the color match.
U-POL Tintable Raptor Lining Review (1 Viewer)
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Try using just tint (paint without the binder in it) instead of paint. It should improve the color match.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Now, I think I'm going raptor on lower exterior, and full bottom interior.
Do anyone have experience in adhering to wood? Will do the drawers and sleeping platform.
Can I just tint the black one to make it a dark grey? That way I can just buy two kits of black, and make last pass on interior Grey.
And how do your ears react to the liner?
I'm hoping for a bonus in nose reduction, but should I also consider dampening plates in firewall and doors?
Do anyone have experience in adhering to wood? Will do the drawers and sleeping platform.
Can I just tint the black one to make it a dark grey? That way I can just buy two kits of black, and make last pass on interior Grey.
And how do your ears react to the liner?
I'm hoping for a bonus in nose reduction, but should I also consider dampening plates in firewall and doors?
How much prep do you need to do for this liner? Are we talking just wire wheel to rough up the surface or more in depth paint removal?
Sorry I missed these posts!
I do not know if you can tint the black liner. The tintable liner has different steps for mixing.
The Raptor liner is not designed to sound deaden and is therefore not very good at doing so, unless you put it on extremely thick.
As for prep, you can wire wheel if you'd like, but I just used 100grit sandpaper over all surfaces that were to be painted. After sanding, wipe down with Xylene and then spray. My raptor liner still looks good after 2.5 years.
I do not know if you can tint the black liner. The tintable liner has different steps for mixing.
The Raptor liner is not designed to sound deaden and is therefore not very good at doing so, unless you put it on extremely thick.
As for prep, you can wire wheel if you'd like, but I just used 100grit sandpaper over all surfaces that were to be painted. After sanding, wipe down with Xylene and then spray. My raptor liner still looks good after 2.5 years.
Tonight I sprayed tinted Upol Raptor Liner with the upol shultz gun that was included with the kit on the tub bottom and firewall. The raptor lining part of the process was pretty easy. I'm glad I took the time to tape/mask because it is messy, and it is very smelly, considerably worse than the epoxy primer and 2 part top coat I sprayed yesterday. I was a slightly concerned the colour was a little light when I first started spraying but it appears to be darkening up to the same as the freeborn red chip I gave the guy a Napa to scan. He made me a pint of the colour without the binders to tint the Raptor liner. I poured 62ml (4 ounces) into each bottle along with 250ml (1 cup) of hardener, that is all there is room for in each bottle. Time will tell if the liner is durable enough for this application, the reviews here on mud are good so I'm confident it will be good.
Prep/app steps:
-wire wheeled any rust spots or dirt or old sections of the firewall
-roughed everything with a red scotch bright pad
-cleaned with duplicolour wax remover pre paint surface cleaner
-seam sealed all underside seams and joints
-taped and masked
-sprayed ep-2c endura primer (not necessary but it has rust inhibiting zinc in it and is very tough once cured)
-sprayed ex-2c freebrorn red endura on the areas that didn't need Rapor Liner. This is very tough as well when is cures on to the ep-2c primer
-brushed Al's HNR on most of the tub bottom and firewall because Raptor Liner is not reported to have the best heat and noise reducing properties, and it is way cheaper than lizard skin
-these 3 previous application steps were done in 1 afternoon to aid in chemical bonding of the products.
-the next night I sprayed the Raptor Liner, see above for how I mixed it. I recall the endura paint has a 24 hr recoating window, and the HNR is quite rough so I believe the raptor liner should bond good.
-1 kit (4 bottles) was ample to cover the bottom and firewall of my cruiser including the tranny hump and both sides of the heat shield I made. I did not spray it on the inside of the outer rear fender sheet metal. My tub is now a 43 series so it is 14" longer than a 40.
I paid 190 CAD for the kit and gun, and $133 for the tint, both at Napa in Grande Prairie. I'm sure it could be had for a little cheaper but not much when shipping from the US to Canada, plus it would have taken weeks to get here. Time will tell if it is durable.
Prep/app steps:
-wire wheeled any rust spots or dirt or old sections of the firewall
-roughed everything with a red scotch bright pad
-cleaned with duplicolour wax remover pre paint surface cleaner
-seam sealed all underside seams and joints
-taped and masked
-sprayed ep-2c endura primer (not necessary but it has rust inhibiting zinc in it and is very tough once cured)
-sprayed ex-2c freebrorn red endura on the areas that didn't need Rapor Liner. This is very tough as well when is cures on to the ep-2c primer
-brushed Al's HNR on most of the tub bottom and firewall because Raptor Liner is not reported to have the best heat and noise reducing properties, and it is way cheaper than lizard skin
-these 3 previous application steps were done in 1 afternoon to aid in chemical bonding of the products.
-the next night I sprayed the Raptor Liner, see above for how I mixed it. I recall the endura paint has a 24 hr recoating window, and the HNR is quite rough so I believe the raptor liner should bond good.
-1 kit (4 bottles) was ample to cover the bottom and firewall of my cruiser including the tranny hump and both sides of the heat shield I made. I did not spray it on the inside of the outer rear fender sheet metal. My tub is now a 43 series so it is 14" longer than a 40.
I paid 190 CAD for the kit and gun, and $133 for the tint, both at Napa in Grande Prairie. I'm sure it could be had for a little cheaper but not much when shipping from the US to Canada, plus it would have taken weeks to get here. Time will tell if it is durable.
Alex, I would scuff up any surfaces that you wire wheel with some sand paper before laying down any coatings. Wire wheeling leaves a very smooth surface. Too smooth, IMHO.
Also, pick up a gallon of wax and grease remover and some lint-free rags to clean surfaces prior to coating. You should be able to find both at most auto parts stores.
...via IH8MUD app
Thanks for the tip. I still need some paint.
U-Pol recommends wiping everything down with xylene after degreasing.
That's because wax and grease remover is made with xylene. Wax and grease remover isnt typically used as a "degreaser." It's used as a surface cleaner prior to painting, when there would be no visible grease on any surface you're ready to paint.
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Yeah, what Splangy and Johnny said. Buy a gallon of Xylene from Home Depot/Lowes. It's cheap.
Klean-Strip 1 gal. Xylol Xylene-GXY24 - The Home Depot
Here are a couple of shots of the Upol in black and a silver/grey mix I did for the firewall on my 40.
Klean-Strip 1 gal. Xylol Xylene-GXY24 - The Home Depot
Here are a couple of shots of the Upol in black and a silver/grey mix I did for the firewall on my 40.
Looks awesome!!
Really happy with the way my liner came out. Toyota 045 tint with no binders, mixed at O'Reilly's. Sprayed through Upol gun at 70psi and 50' of 3/8'' line with a coil whip on the end. No idea what actual pressure at the gun was, I figured at least 60psi after line loss 
Nice work!!! Looks great!
Thanks brother, inspired by your rig actually !
I'm glad to have helped
Your 045 appears to be a lot more of a white than my 033. Mine is more of a creamy white than a bright white. I really like it!
Yes, its a very bright white. Its actually probably a shade brighter than what came from the factory, that or the old stuff was just faded that bad.
@GLTHFJ60 has your liner held up colorwise with it having been on for a number of years now? My local line-x shop told me their white would start to yellow within a couple years.
@half k cruiser how many kits to do the body in white and did you use a pint of 045 per kit to tint the liner? I'm in the process of welding flare and roof rack holes then it's on to spraying. Thanks
@half k cruiser how many kits to do the body in white and did you use a pint of 045 per kit to tint the liner? I'm in the process of welding flare and roof rack holes then it's on to spraying. Thanks
2 kits will do the body and fender wells. Though I would get a spare in case you have some missed spots that you find after it cures. I can't remember how many oz of tint they gave me but the raptor spec sheet has it in oz or grams so you can give that to whoever does your paint.
My white has been the same white since it was sprayed as far as I can tell. It's definitely more of a creamy white than the original Toyota 033, so maybe that's yellowing, but I remember it being more of a creamy white to begin with.
@half k cruiser in your pics it looks like you shot the door handles as well? If so did you do anything special from a masking standpoint other than the key hole? Im assuming the liner goes on thin enough that you don't have to work about the gaps binding up where the handle won't operate. Thanks