Target carrier (5 Viewers)

[Reverend Ink]

I should have been following this thread instead of the one on IGT.

 

[J Mack]

I should have been following this thread instead of the one on IGT.

It seems this one gets more posts because I’m always asking these guys for advice on how to do something.



Speaking of which, I’m getting ready to build my anti-wrap bar and I have read shackle angle 90 to the top bar, slightly forward and/or slightly back to adjust anti-squat. I have it 90 to the top bar now and I will have some adjustment with the two joints but I’m trying to confirm before I make anything permanent. Can any of you guys point me in the right direction?

 

[Reverend Ink]

I'd like to drop my 80 off when you're done with this (okay, maybe when you're wanting a break from the 55) just to see what you come up with. And I really want to learn to weld now.

 

[scrapdaddy]

J Mack,

Wish I could help, but way over my pay grade. It does look like you have plenty of adjustment either way. Two thumbs up for the cool factor.

 

[J Mack]

J Mack,

Wish I could help, but way over my pay grade. It does look like you have plenty of adjustment either way. Two thumbs up for the cool factor.

Found what I was looking for,

So to find the side view instant center, you draw a horizontal line through the axle center line. Then you draw a line through the pivot points of the shackle. It doesn't matter if the shackle is in tension or compression or whatever angle. Where those two lines intersect is the instant center.

Here's a drawing.

 

[PabloCruise]

The "rear anti-squat" - sounds like the latest cross-fit workout!

 

[J Mack]

Bar is made and I confirmed it will still fit after welding, I have no idea if it will work but it shouldn’t break 2”X.250” DOM tubing for the top and bottom and 1.5” DOM for the center bracing.

I still need to make some new shock mounts, I had hoped to use the factory Toyota top/rear mounts but King couldn’t accommodate the 16mm studs so one more day laying on my back welding on a pig I should be driving by now.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Very Nice! Plenty beefy. Good to know about the Kings. I haven't decided on shocks yet and really don't want to redo the studs.

Can we talk about the two stainless lines above the track bar? Line lock, maybe?

 

[J Mack]

Very Nice! Plenty beefy. Good to know about the Kings. I haven't decided on shocks yet and really don't want to redo the studs.

Thanks Ron,



King will put 5/8” bushings in the shock ends and this was originally what I was thinking of when I left my 16mm mounts and just sanding them to fit. The problem is just not the OD of the stud it’s the length and having room for some type of misalignment spacer, after taking the time to look at all the issues I decided I could make new mounts and move the shocks up three inches at the same time giving the lower eyes better protection faster than trying to use the factory mounts.

If King would put 16mm eyes in their shocks then just making the misalignment spacer would not be a big deal by it's self.

Can we talk about the two stainless lines above the track bar? Line lock, maybe?

All my stainless lines - fuel supply, fuel return, brakes, locker air supply and vents are all ran together through bulkheads tied to the floor. I still need to finish but these are better pictures.



Front,

Rear,

 

[PabloCruise]

Purty...

 

[scrapdaddy]

J Mack,

You remind me of my Brother, who has a doctorate in mechanical engineering. He always researches, calculates and then reacts to his findings. I swear he has a equation for buying underwear. Let me add, I always wished I had his sense of " the right way " He's one of the people I admire the most in life.

Keep up the good work!

 

[bobm]

Jmack, awesome fab skills. You must have a lot of patience.

Thanks Bob

 

[J Mack]

Thanks guys


Trying to make it to Cruiser fest and the Pig is fighting me all the way,

I had installed a float style fuel sender and spent the next five days installing and hooking up the tank, the sender stuck on half full after I had put 48 gallons of fuel in the tank so I spent the following five days pulling the tank building another top and installing an electronic sender.


Old tank top.

New top.

The hubs I got for the rear needed to be trued up so I machined .003” off the faces before I drilled them for the extra dowels. Not pictured but I installed ARP studs after all machining was complete and they were too long so I needed to disassemble everything and counter bore the stud pockets for the longer studs.

Rear end ready for pluming.

Rear end and fuel tank installed now I can start on the front.

I big thanks to Kurt @ cruiser outfitters for getting me all the last minute parts out quickly, seems like I had needed something every other day for two weeks and they not only have always had it in stock they have shipped it out quickly.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, you've been busy. Turning out nice. What's up with your pumpkin cover? I know it's not stock, but can't see what those four large " bolts " are.

 

[J Mack]

Thanks Ron,



It’s a Ruff Stuff cover and I liked the fact that they moved the fill port up to allow for more oil capacity, I’m going to run my hub bearings wet so I figured it couldn’t hurt.

I have no idea why they have the four longer bolts but reading their description it sounds like they had a heck of a time making this cover so I’m assuming the four long bolts solved some issue they were having.

 

[cruiserdan]

I hope you make it to CF. I really want a close look at this vehicle. What a treat.

 

[OldBeachBob]

I'm blessed to live near Jim so I've had the pleasure of seeing his build several times in person. I'ts incredible, never in almost 50 years of Toyota Land Cruiser experience seen anything close. Thanks so much Jim!!!!

 

[Reverend Ink]

I'm not that far from him I'm guessing...I want to check out the pig, but also want to watch him weld.

 

[J Mack]

I hope you make it to CF. I really want a close look at this vehicle. What a treat.

Thank you Dan,

Working some late nights trying to get the running gear back together and under the PIG then I can start on paint. I’m certain I won’t have time to complete everything left to do but if it starts and has doors by Tuesday, September 8th I’m headed to Utah to hook up with Kurt and join the Moab to Tooele Trail Ride.

I'm blessed to live near Jim so I've had the pleasure of seeing his build several times in person. I'ts incredible, never in almost 50 years of Toyota Land Cruiser experience seen anything close. Thanks so much Jim!!!!

Thanks Bob,

How is your PIG project going?

but also want to watch him weld.

Best way to learn to weld is buy a welder and stop by the scrap yard on your way home and buy a couple hundred pounds of scrap steel to practice on.







Quick update,

Assembled the front end and upgraded some parts while I was at it, changed out the 17mm pivot bearings to 25mm bearings, added chromoly spindles, installed a new ARB locker and gears, RCV shafts and hub gears and a heavy-duty pinion flange. Basically all the same stuff I used on the rear end but I stopped for a minute to snap a photo.

Side note, I talked to RCV and they told me to use CV Joint grease or their version grease on the berfield.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Jim,

Nice stuff! Tell me again what air compressor you're going to use. Seems I can't remember.