Rusty or Self Etch Primer

Discussion in 'Paint and Body' started by scrapdaddy, Mar 18, 2012.

  1. scrapdaddy

    scrapdaddy Standing on the corner SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,375
    Location:
    Dittmer, Mo.
    I have scraped and wire wheeled the entire under body of my 55, now I want to prime. Rusty metal primer from Rust-oleum or a self etching primer. I would like to get all the little places that didn't get down to bare metal, cracks, etc. with the rusty metal primer. Is it ok to use on the bare metal also.

    Thanks, Ron
  2. scrapdaddy

    scrapdaddy Standing on the corner SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,375
    Location:
    Dittmer, Mo.
    Here's a picture
    IMG_1234.jpg
  3. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    You've put a lot of hard work into that thing. Don't skimp now by using hardware store paints. I would try to borrow a sandblaster from a friend or another local Mudder. If you're planning on painting, you probably have a big enough compressor to blast a few small spots. I would avoid self etching primer. You should never paint (or bedliner, or epoxy prime) directly over most self etching primers. They require a surfacer primer to be applied over them, or you'll have adhesion problems down the road. That = more product = more money. I would use a quality 2k (epoxy) primer and then topcoat with paint or bedliner, etc...
  4. scrapdaddy

    scrapdaddy Standing on the corner SILVER Star

    Messages:
    3,375
    Location:
    Dittmer, Mo.
    Splangy thanks for responding,

    What I was thinking, Some type of primer to stop any little spot of rust, then use Lizard Skin [ noise and heat product ] and last a bedliner product. You suggest a epoxy primer instead of rattle can. You forgot more than I'll ever know about all this, so tell what product, you would use.
    I'm not set up for spraying, yet, but will be shortly. I bought the 55, as a body and frame. The body was already painted, I just want to do the under side, before putting back on the frame.
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2012
  5. GRM

    GRM Profesional at Something Moderator

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Scotts Valley, CA
    Take your pick. One works better than the other. One is easier to use, and far cheaper. They are the only two I use.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  6. Fast Eddy

    Fast Eddy SILVER Star

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    11,772
    Location:
    Morgan Hill, CA
    You've got to be careful with that Rustoleum primer. I painted single-stage automotive paint (not sure what brand, Centari?) over it and got a very textured finish, due to the mismatch.
  7. snobdds

    snobdds Totally Gangsta, Bro... SILVER Star

    Messages:
    689
    Location:
    Cheyenne, Wyoming
    Use the PPG epoxy primer, you will never have rust issues again.

    Just put some reducer in it and it will act as a really good sealant. Then use the shop line of PPG single stage to top coat it.

    In my opnion, that combo is just as good as Por-15.
  8. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Are you kidding me? Its WAY superior to POR-15 or any similar products. There's no comparison between a properly applied, quality 2k epoxy primer and a rust band-aid like POR-15.

    To save quite a few bucks, consider going with PPG's Omni brand epoxy primer. It's a fraction of the cost and will provide similar results to the PPG DPLF.
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012
  9. snobdds

    snobdds Totally Gangsta, Bro... SILVER Star

    Messages:
    689
    Location:
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    POR-15 is not bad stuff, I don't think we should discount it in any way. I just started to use the PPG DP90, so I can't give any long term input, however from what I've seen...its good stuff.

    Why do you think POR-15 is a rust band aid? Everything I have used it on has held up great. Prep is everything with that stuff... :cheers:
  10. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    4,308
    Location:
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    POR is a band-aid because it is intended to be painted over rust. The best way to prevent further rust is remove all of it and then use top qualify coatings over the properly prepared surface.
  11. Kernal

    Kernal

    Messages:
    4,777
    Newb question: what is the best way to remove all the old rust, just grind it away then use the epoxy primer followed by paint.

  12. snobdds

    snobdds Totally Gangsta, Bro... SILVER Star

    Messages:
    689
    Location:
    Cheyenne, Wyoming
    I don't know where your getting POR-15 can be painted directly over paint, but that is not correct information. POR-15 has to be applied just like any other quality sealant. All the rust must be removed, then the top coatings are applied. Again, it is all about surface prep...:cheers:
  13. snobdds

    snobdds Totally Gangsta, Bro... SILVER Star

    Messages:
    689
    Location:
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    You got the idea...:clap:
  14. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

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    4,308
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    I never said POR-15 can be used over other paint. In fact, I would STRONGLY not recommend it. POR-15 should NOT be apllied like any other coating (what did you mean by "sealant", anyways? The only sealers I know of are those applied before color coats to provide a uniform surface for color.) POR should only be applied to cleaned rust or to an equally rough surface like sandblasted steel (even that can pressent issues). Read the POR-15 instructions and you'll see that it absolutely should NOT be appled like other automotive coatings.
  15. thetoyotaman

    thetoyotaman

    Messages:
    1,033
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    The Last Best Place
    I'm starting to think about paint and primer and rust that is so common to 40's. Reading different threads, I found this post very interesting and was wondering if the epoxy primer is a good way to go on a frame and axles. What color is this primer?
  16. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

    Messages:
    4,308
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    You can get epoxy primers in many colors depending on the manufacturer. It's a good coating for any steel automotive surface. Remember that prep is everything. If you're going to leave a bunch of rust on the surface, just POR it.
  17. thetoyotaman

    thetoyotaman

    Messages:
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    Location:
    The Last Best Place
    Since my 40 was hit I am starting to seriously consider a frame off. I'm trying to figure out what the best way is to paint the frame and axles as well as skid plates, etc. I could have the frame sandblasted, but what about inside the frame where it is hard to reach? Is it better to treat the rust with rust converter or phosphoric acid or naval jelly? If found a place that can blast the frame. I'm also wondering about galvanizing but don't think there is anywhere close to do that. Thanks for the help with all the newbie questions for paint and body.

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