John are you coming up for Fall Crawl?
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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Hey Gary, I'm not going to be able to make it. I still haven't found work, and just had to deal with some unexpected dental work with no insurance. I somehow managed to crack my molar in three places, resulting in a crown. Not a good time. I'll be there in spirit, please have a beer or three for me in my absence!
Better news is that I'm putting back together a 85 FJ60 2F that will be going into my FJ55, that is finally getting some of my time.
I'd do what Bob said but first I'd soak the bottom of the door overnight in the WD40 Rust Soak - then flush, dry and paint with Rust Bullet, Corroless, POR, Etc re-apply seam sealer AFTER the rust paint then top coat.
That rust soak stuff works great.
Non toxic too.
WD-40 Specialist
or this
Rust Remover - Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover
iptman
SILVER Star
Won't that rust soak stuff remove paint? Ideally this is a temporary fix until I can do a proper restoration but that's probably 5ish years out. My 40 doesn't hang out in the elements too much and lives under an open air barn. I just don't want things to rot away in that time frame that I could have done something about now.
The evapo-rust will not remove pant. Just the rusty metal the pant attaches to.
- Thread starter
- #727
You do need to rinse the evaporust though too.
- Thread starter
- #728
Evaporust is excellent stuff. Don't use POR. Just my humble opinion, but rust bullet or corroless are better products and take paint better.
iptman
SILVER Star
So I need to figure out some kind of trough system to soak the bottoms of the doors then. Anyone have an idea of what use?
- Thread starter
- #730
A rubbermaid bin?
garden supply shops have window planter inserts. Find the ones without holes or small holes you can fill with goop, or just line with tin foil as Bob suggested.
I used Eastwoods rust encapsulator. I really like it. It stopped the rust on my frame.
Unfortunately it was to late.
Unfortunately it was to late.
iptman
SILVER Star
Ding ding! I picked up the clcc sticker from Ed today and I told him about my efforts. He then disappeared into his house and returned with a wallpaper tray. And it looks like I can fit both doors in at the same time. Now here's the dilemma. I can't find the evaporust local in the gallon size. And since they need to soak up to 24 hours I don't have time to order it, soak and rince, apply rust bullet, let it cure and install the weather striping. So... How do these door bottoms look now that I've cleaned them up?
Wallpaper tray is brilliant
I'm not worried about the rust on the outside - it is what is in the seams and on the inside that I am worried about. That is natural habitat where the Tin Worm lives and breeds. Thus the need to soak. and maybe DIP in paint as well.
I'm not worried about the rust on the outside - it is what is in the seams and on the inside that I am worried about. That is natural habitat where the Tin Worm lives and breeds. Thus the need to soak. and maybe DIP in paint as well.
Go here and read about dip painting. Interesting how they did stuff in the old days. Now a similar technique is used for custom paint jobs.
How To Restore Your Muscle Car
How To Restore Your Muscle Car
- Thread starter
- #739
For the time being, you can wire wheel to get the scale off, then treat with naval jelly and paint. Then go for the big fix later. Don't wait too long, but you're probably in good shape.
If you shake the door around can you hear rust bsits bouncing around or take the access panel off and shake the door over your head to see if any rust flakes fall on your head. If not, you are ahead of the game.
If you shake the door around can you hear rust bsits bouncing around or take the access panel off and shake the door over your head to see if any rust flakes fall on your head. If not, you are ahead of the game.
