Murf's Methanol injection install (3 Viewers)

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More then one use for methanol. Demo provided by a properly tuned adult
:beer:
:popcorn:
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:grinpimp:

So you guys make Murf bring extra on camping runs?

:lol:

:hillbilly:
 
:lol:

I dont know which was more high octane, the methanol or the imported almond tequilla you pulled out in the late evening :hmm:
 
I measured the flow rate out of the stock washer bottle today and was pleasantly suprised. It takes 14 seconds to pump a quart (32 oz. if I remember right?).

I use this on the next big trip and see how it goes. At least I know when the red "low fluid" light comes on, I can pump just shy of 3 quarts into the snow bottle and count off 40 seconds.

The question has been asked several times so now that Ive had this system for 6 months now, I have found the usage rate around town is very reasonable since it is designed to come in only under harder acceleration. It takes about 8 weeks to go through both containers. The most was a long mountainous road trip where I pushed the truck aggressively all day and used up both containers in over 5 hours :D

So far so good, I can say that after some time has passed, I still am very satisfied with the performance it delivers and the adjustability of the Snow system.
 
thx for the write up, I am very interested in learning more about meth injection, but am a newbie to this area, some questions? My truck is a 96 fzj80 with sc and pending air to air intercooler (top mount) with subaru hood scoop.

- in your opinion is this something that could be easily removed for when I have to take the truck to be smogged? I have to smog every 2 years but not a big deal to remove or plug up the system if necessary.

- is the snow unit ok to install with an air to air intercooler? sounds like the injection would need to happen directly AFTER the intercooler and before the throttle body?

- are there any major wiring mods (I read you moved something with the MAF) that would make this a NO NO with the whole CA smog thing? ie: not reversible in a reasonable amount of time.

sorry for all the CA smog question but we have to deal with it here and I have found out the hard way you need to really think about modifications like this before hand. A total PIA.
 
Here are some part #'s: (salvage yard can be a great source too)
*Camry IATS: 89424-06010 *Grommet not listed separate from air box - trip to salvage yard.
*Connector housing to sensor: 90980-11163 *Wires w/ spades for extra length: 82298-12440
With the intake tube removed, an 11/16 hole was drilled for the grommet. Pins 3 and 4 on the MAF connector (with wires facing you) are for the IAT sensor. Blue with yellow tracer wire is now Pin #1 and Brown with black tracer wire is now Pin # 2 (both with wires facing you). The wires were plugged into new connector housing and the wire ends soldered with spade connectors that will push into the connectors pulled off the MAF. Shrink tubing and casing installed. The sensor then was mounted into the grommet and electrical connected. As expected, the temps read the same as before, with the sensor just a little farther downstream.


question on this, if I am understanding correctly you are adding a complete new sensor for use solely with the snow system? which means that stock MAF system is not being changed at all whatsoever?
 
Good looking setup, the only thing I would caution against with a MAF is when you decouple the IAT sensor from the MAF and move it from one side of the compresser to the other the truck doesn't get an accurate reading. In a SD tune you want the IAT sensor as close to the air entering the motor as possible, but on a MAF system you want to keep the airflow and temp together. I will try and explain why.

I am going to use extremes so please don't think these are actual numbers.

The MAF uses the speed of the air, the known size of the intake tube and the temp of the air to calculate how much air is coming into the engine. Lets pretend you are driving and it is 0 degrees C outside and you could actually see IAT of 0c at the MAF, but you have moved your IAT sensor post SC and are now under boost and making a lot of heat and the IAT sensor sees 100c temps. If the computer thinks the IAT sensor is still in the MAF housing it would think you are getting a lot less air. The density for air at 0c is 1.2922kg/m3 and at 100c is 0.9461kg/m3. **Oh one more key to this is that the truck needs an accurate measure of the air as it is what the truck uses to figure load, which is how it controls the timing map**

Now the temp swings aren't that great more than likely but the concept is the same. You can leave the temp sensor in the MAF and spray post SC, pre TB there is no need to move the IAT sensor. Now if you want to run a second sensor to see how well the water/meth spray is working and just wire it to a gauge that would be a good idea.
 
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Good looking setup, the only thing I would caution against with a MAF is when you decouple the IAT sensor from the MAF and move it from one side of the compresser to the other the truck doesn't get an accurate reading. In a SD tune you want the IAT sensor as close to the air entering the motor as possible, but on a MAF system you want to keep the airflow and temp together. I will try and explain why.

I am going to use extremes so please don't think these are actual numbers.

The MAF uses the speed of the air, the known size of the intake tube and the temp of the air to calculate how much air is coming into the engine. Lets pretend you are driving and it is 0 degrees C outside and you could actually see IAT of 0c at the MAF, but you have moved your IAT sensor post SC and are now under boost and making a lot of heat and the IAT sensor sees 100c temps. If the computer thinks the IAT sensor is still in the MAF housing it would think you are getting a lot less air. The density for air at 0c is 1.2922kg/m3 and at 100c is 0.9461kg/m3. **Oh one more key to this is that the truck needs an accurate measure of the air as it is what the truck uses to figure load, which is how it controls the timing map**

Now the temp swings aren't that great more than likely but the concept is the same. You can leave the temp sensor in the MAF and spray post SC, pre TB there is no need to move the IAT sensor. Now if you want to run a second sensor to see how well the water/meth spray is working and just wire it to a gauge that would be a good idea.


good info, so it sounds like this snow setup can be installed without the additional IATS sensor noted in this thread? just hook up directly to the stock MAF sensor? I am using the landtank MAF so not sure if that changed things? I read over the snow installations instructions and it all seems very simple install. Only question I have left is how often would one have to refill the methanol reservoir. I would probably set my system up on the lower setting to kick in only when under excessive load, ie: hill climbs and towing.
 
Exactly you could do it with the MAF system I linked you to in the other thread. You would tie into the MAF voltage signal and you do not need to move any sensors. It is a pretty simple install. I am using a similar sized nozzle to Murf, he said he is using the 175ml/min, I am using around 160ml/min@220psi and I use about a litter per tank of gas it seems. And mine comes on pretty often.
 
Well remember it is all how you set it up. Murf said he was able to use up his system in 5 hours of heavy use. So depending on how you setup your triggers on the Snow performance controller you can fine tune how long it will last. If you trigger it to spray 100% at 1v, it isn't going to last long at all. lol.
 
JM, a Toyota master tech and part time mad scientist has added several upgrades.
1) Added the ability to independently switch off boost from the S/C and also the Methanol injection. This has really allowed to use the boost yet save burning through the meth fluid as I would previously. Had to creatively move the green activation indicator light and the red low fluid light to keep it all together.
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2) Modified the windshield washer . I had the 80's much larger w/w bottle directly feeding the smaller 1 gallon Snow provided methanol fluid bottle. As anyone running meth knows, it gets used quickly if not careful. Pushing the front washer spray button would refill the snow bottle but I lost the ability to spray the windshield which wasnt needed frequently but a PITA when it was. :rolleyes: Now that function has been restored and the rear glass spray function on the stalk is what fills the bottle. I use that about once a year, so no big deal for me. Amazing how the little things are appreciated!

3) long story but JM found out that the 80 has a two speed fuel pump. After the computer sees 3-4 seconds of hard acceleration it increases fuel pressure to the engine. I'm guessing the engineers didn't want it to kick in unless really needing it for more prolonged needs like towing or accel up an incline. No reason to switch it to full pressure all the time, you can see on the scantool that the ecm will slowly compensate and the advantage is lost.
So...some manipulation of the resistor and you can make it activate the 2nd speed almost instantly and drop back down as soon as I decelerate. Not long or consistent enough to give the ecm enough time to remap and compensate. Seems to give a little more kick off the line when getting on it.

Its the details that make the difference for even more driving enjoyment in my 80 :)
 
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JM, a Toyota master tech and part time mad scientist has added several upgrades.
1) Added the ability to independently switch off boost from the S/C and also the Methanol injection. This has really allowed to use the boost yet save burning through the method fluid as I would previously. Had to creatively move the green activation indicator light and the red low fluid light to keep it all together.
View attachment 1760665 View attachment 1760670

2) Modified the windshield washer . I had the 80's much larger w/w bottle directly feeding the smaller 1 gallon Snow provided method fluid bottle. As anyone running meth knows, it gets used quickly if not careful. Pushing the front washer spray button would refill the snow bottle but I lost the ability to spray the windshield which wasnt needed frequently but a PITA when it was. :rolleyes: Now that function has been restored and the rear glass spray function on the stalk is what fills the bottle. I use that about once a year, so no big deal for me. Amazing how the little things are appreciated!

3) long story but JM found out that the 80 has a two speed fuel pump. After the computer sees 3-4 seconds of hard acceleration it increases fuel pressure to the engine. I'm guessing the engineers didn't want it to kick in unless really needing it for more prolonged needs like towing or accel up an incline. No reason to switch it to full pressure all the time, you can see on the scantool that the ecm will slowly compensate and the advantage is lost.
So...some manipulation of the resistor and you can make it activate the 2nd speed almost instantly and drop back down as soon as I decelerate. Not long or consistent enough to give the ecm enough time to remap and compensate. Seems to give a little more kick off the line when getting on it.

Its the details that make the difference for even more driving enjoyment in my 80 :)

CBT has some of sharpest Land Cruiser mechanics.
 

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