Murf's Methanol injection install (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

murf

Lifer
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Threads
412
Messages
10,548
Location
Scottsdale, Arizona
There is a limited amount of information on recent meth/water injection installs on Supercharged 95-97 OBDII 80 series so I thought I would post up our* install. (*Thanks to Toyota Master Technician John G for the valuable assistance!)

When I installed the TRD Supercharger installed here in Arizona about 7 years ago, my first goal (by necessity) was to keep coolant temperatures under control. After restoring my cooling system to 100% effectiveness, several mods followed: JDM electric fan, heavily juiced black hub fan clutch, hood vents, 3F fan assembly, foam along top of radiator gap, and relocating driving lights that were blocking the front of the grill. The goal was to keep it drivable in any summer situation including towing, etc. I am satisfied with the engine cooling performance, so now...

…The next goal is working on getting intake temperatures down so that when I need the power from the supercharger, I’m not restricted due to the hot intake temps. Of course when I really need it here in AZ is when I’m either towing or loaded down for a camping / wheeling trip and working through multiple long mountain passes. These types of situations where the engine is working hard is when the intake temps really climb.

But that is when I need the power...

My expectations are to reclaim the power the S/C is capable of in those situations where I need it. I don’t plan on having a “fast” truck or running around town like a tuner blasting away from stop lights. The truck is heavy and has a straight six for goodness sake. I expect to drive around town and not have the injection activate in normal day to day driving – except maybe when getting on the freeway. I can get a little better performance in this day to day type driving just by being able to advance my base timing – which I will play with after the install and report my findings.

An intercooler would be ideal but without a proven one out there on the market, I’ve turned to Methanol-water injection. I’ve settled on the Snow level 2 MAF system (#20011). Instead of using manifold boost pressure to trigger injection, this system uses the MAF signal with a variable control unit that can be tuned based off of the more accurate and progressive MAF voltage.

images.jpg
 
But first, Intake Air Sensor Mod

With the Knock Sensor taking readings and adjusting accordingly, the effect of Knock Sensor timing retard (KR) can really sap the benefit of the supercharger – especially when temps are higher. KR retards the timing under heavy throttle/load to guard against spark knock detonation which lowers engine performance. Part of the data input that affects KR is intake temp readings from the Intake Air Temp Sensor (IATS).

For maximum benefit, the methanol injection nozzle should be mounted close to the throttle body mouth and spray across the IATS before entering the Throttle Body to report the actual lower temps from the spray.

Unfortunately, the 80 series design has the IATS incorporated into the MAF sensor directly after the air cleaner housing. Not wanting to spray across the MAF which could damage it, we will need to first "divorce" the IATS and relocate it to the TRD intake tube.
The IATS is built into the MAF assembly so we first had to find another Toyota IAT sensor that would have the exact same resistance values. The solution is one out of a 2000 4 cylinder Camry that mounts into the side of that car's air cleaner box via a rubber grommet.
The resistance values of the Camry and the LC sensors are identical and the grommet mounting is perfect for our mod. (see chart)
 

Attachments

  • DOC080513.pdf
    39.7 KB · Views: 483
Last edited:
Here are some part #'s: (salvage yard can be a great source too)
*Camry IATS: 89424-06010 *Grommet not listed separate from air box - trip to salvage yard.
*Connector housing to sensor: 90980-11163 *Wires w/ spades for extra length: 82298-12440
With the intake tube removed, an 11/16 hole was drilled for the grommet. Pins 3 and 4 on the MAF connector (with wires facing you) are for the IAT sensor. Blue with yellow tracer wire is now Pin #1 and Brown with black tracer wire is now Pin # 2 (both with wires facing you). The wires were plugged into new connector housing and the wire ends soldered with spade connectors that will push into the connectors pulled off the MAF. Shrink tubing and casing installed. The sensor then was mounted into the grommet and electrical connected. As expected, the temps read the same as before, with the sensor just a little farther downstream.

IMG_0335.jpg


IMG_0337.JPG


IMG_0339.jpg


IMG_0344.jpg
 
more install pictures

IMG_0345.jpg


IMG_0346.jpg


IMG_0348.jpg


IMG_0350.jpg
 
Halfway through the kit install right now, should be able to finish the details and tuning in the next couple days.
 
Oh yeah this helps me not want a supercharger for sure. Thanks Murf, right after I got over it :crybaby:. All kidding aside great research and great work so far.
 
Oh yeah this helps me not want a supercharger for sure. Thanks Murf, right after I got over it :crybaby:. All kidding aside great research and great work so far.

X2! Can't wait to see results:bounce:
 
" I don’t plan on having a “fast” truck or running around town like a tuner blasting away from stop lights. The truck is heavy and has a straight six for goodness sake."

OMG, somebody else gets it. Cool project man.
 
Do you know what your IAT's were before the meth kit? I am curious what the TRD supercharger sees but no one ever really knows.

Maybe an example like, 95 degree day, pulling a moderate hill with the cruise control set at 70, IAT 140F, etc.

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Do you know what your IAT's were before the meth kit? I am curious what the TRD supercharger sees but no one ever really knows.

Maybe an example like, 95 degree day, pulling a moderate hill with the cruise control set at 70, IAT 140F, etc.

Thanks!

My Ultraguage reports 140 degrees give or take some depending on conditions. Your example is pretty close to what I could report.
 
Murf is that under boost or just cruising? Will be good to see your results!

My Ultraguage reports 140 degrees give or take some depending on conditions. Your example is pretty close to what I could report.
 
Murf is that under boost or just cruising? Will be good to see your results!

That would be cruising on a long road trip with some high rpm driving at times (long grades) with the outside temps above 100. The SC is always boosting to one degree or another and the challenge is that the SC itself creates heat. Comparing several 80's on several trips so far, other 80s (all trucks running gauges) Ill run hotter than they do when it comes to intake temps. It also seems that the 80s with snorkels get cooler air than non-snorkeled but I am holding off on adding one so far but it is tempting after seeing the difference.

Some items I will be working this week after installing the kit will be determining nozzle size, testing different base timing settings w/o any pinging at full throttle, and dialing in where I want the injection to start kicking in (I am thinking approx. 75-80% throttle and have it ramp up to full open at 100%.)

I am looking forward to it! Ill post pictures up as it comes together.
 
That would be cruising on a long road trip with some high rpm driving at times (long grades) with the outside temps above 100. The SC is always boosting to one degree or another and the challenge is that the SC itself creates heat. Comparing several 80's on several trips so far, other 80s (all trucks running gauges) Ill run hotter than they do when it comes to intake temps. It also seems that the 80s with snorkels get cooler air than non-snorkeled but I am holding off on adding one so far but it is tempting after seeing the difference.

Some items I will be working this week after installing the kit will be determining nozzle size, testing different base timing settings w/o any pinging at full throttle, and dialing in where I want the injection to start kicking in (I am thinking approx. 75-80% throttle and have it ramp up to full open at 100%.)

I am looking forward to it! Ill post pictures up as it comes together.
Neat idea of moving the IATS signal pickup to a better location. Interested in the KNock Sensor timing retard function. Doesn't it pretty much make advancing the timing on ANY 93-97 rig moot? Hmmm.......
 
since you have the progressive controller there's a whole process of setting the start and max points ahead of you.

Interested to see, but i'm not doing WMI on a 1fz -- I'm doing it on the BPY engine in my volkswagen instead. And may do it on a future 4bd1t diesel swap in my truck.
 
Last edited:
Neat idea of moving the IATS signal pickup to a better location. Interested in the KNock Sensor timing retard function. Doesn't it pretty much make advancing the timing on ANY 93-97 rig moot? Hmmm.......

To a degree it does but only to a certain point. The system is now installed as of this morning and we are playing around with base timing (which is 3 degrees). Here are some results >

Through trial and error, I can now set my base timing at 9 degrees currently which gives a bit more all-around oomph. With the injection turned off at this setting, I get some significant pinging under hard accel. When the injection is then activated to come on under hard accel, I do not get any pinging at all.

At 11 degrees, I am getting some light pinging even with the injection.
 
wonder how progressive works on those pumps .. ?

increasing from 6V to 12V ..?

Pretty much. I don't think they are PWM controlled or anything.

There is also a set screw on the top to adjust the max pressure, defaults to either 150psi or 200psi iirc. Should say so on the pump.

Somewhere out there, there is a psi vs. nozzle size flow rate chart that was once published by Devil's Own, but i can't find it.

afaik the objective is to tune for just enough water/meth injected that there is no pinging or not significant pinging at WOT, and not more. And then then tune for how early you really want to start injecting.

For IAT cooling you want the injector as far back from the throttle body as possible, which i guess isn't very far in these trucks. pre-intercooler can cause the water to condense out. So in an intercooled vehicle, you would want it on the output of the IC.

If you just want the octane boost, you can do anything up to direct port injection on the intake manifold.

I believe that direct port would still give you the EGT reductions, but that is mostly of interest on turbos and diesels.
 
Last edited:
Well not related but I'm injecting pre turbo and throttle body / intercooler alcohol in both of my cruisers .. actually alcohol / water mixture while more water better for cooling and more alcohol better for performance not helping much to EGT's ..

in my 1HD-T I'm on 7GPH at IC and 1GPH pre turbo .. pump is set at 220 PSI ..
 
Well not related but I'm injecting pre turbo and throttle body / intercooler alcohol in both of my cruisers .. actually alcohol / water mixture while more water better for cooling and more alcohol better for performance not helping much to EGT's ..

in my 1HD-T I'm on 7GPH at IC and 1GPH pre turbo .. pump is set at 220 PSI ..

I've heard of people doing that, but it doesn't sound smart to me. The water could be condensing back out in the intercooler.

I guess if it works, keep at it.

If'n I ever get to diesel swap my cruiser - I've already got my heart set on a 4bd1t at about 24psi - I will absolutely run water/meth injection both for the top-end power boost and the lower egts.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom