Man-A-Fre Aluminum Radiator Replacement ( Some Photos and Some Data) (1 Viewer)

[turbocruiser]

A product is worth what you will pay for it.
It's a beautiful product.

Is it worth it to me? If I had cooling problems or forced induction, I would say yes. As PM... hmmmm... individual choice.

Turbocruiser,
can you list stuff in F for us backwards USA boys? maybe I should google a conversion calculator...

Thanks! Sure let me list some common settings on my gauge:

1. The temperature at which the thermostat opened with both my radiators ... 80C = 176F. This is evidenced by my Greddy Gauge which is placed right after the aluminum neck off of the head and run to the radiator's upper inlet hose. It creeps slowly up to temperature as the rig warms up but then the needle "jumps" to 80 as the thermostat opens. Once opened the thermostat never closes off in such a way so as to cause the operating temps to go below 80.

2. The temp that the rig settles at when it is not hot here and you are driving around delicately ... 84C = 183F. This also applies to both the radiators and I think this is the function of the thermostats mid range holding super steady.

3. The temp that the rig fluctuates in with hot weather driving in slow stop, slow go, conditions. Original rad was 88 to 92C = 190 to 198. MAF rad is 84 to 88C = 183 to 190F. So far with some more aggressive hot weather stop and go - sprinting from red light to red light up to 45 (the speedlimit there) and then waiting while idling I have not gotten above 88C. Now keep in mind I would not have gotten above 92C doing the same things with the original radiator so as far as I know the rig could really care less if it is at 88C / 190F or if it is at 92C / 198F. I mean the thing does not even bother with basic safety steps like dc/ing the AC until 108C / 226F or something so it is not like any previous temperature was so wrong.

I'll try to find a table to post with F to C / C to F conversions but for now:

http://www.allmeasures.com/temperature.html


HTH.

 

[FirstToy]

almost 10 degrees lower is pretty significant, I would think. thanks, look fwd to more numbers (in F ) as you continue testing.

 

[landtank]

I use this program all the time when converting between different measures. Best part it's free.

 

[Ting]

I love google!! Google can do it you

www.google.com

Type in "90 celsius to fahrenheit"












.

90 degrees Celsius = 194 degrees Fahrenheit

 

[djsixbillion]

Resurrecting this thread since there don't seem to be any recent ones on this radiator. Turbocruiser or anyone else, any updates on how the Ron Davis/MAF radiators are holding up and performing long term?

Seriously thinking about ordering one to replace a Koyo which I just put in about 3 months ago that is already seeping from the top tank. OEM is of course an option, but I really like the idea of an all-aluminum unit.

 

[timer00]

Just to add that a new OEM 3 row brass or aluminum core is currently at ~$530 shipped. I got my 3 row brass OEM shipped for that from American Toyota NM to PA.

I wonder how much this all aluminum one is currently for comparison of what it was in 2007 of ~$200 difference from OEM.

EDIT:

http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/aluminumradiatorfzj80.htm

$950 now.. ouch maybe worth it for the turbo/sc guys mostly

 

[turbocruiser]

Resurrecting this thread since there don't seem to be any recent ones on this radiator. Turbocruiser or anyone else, any updates on how the Ron Davis/MAF radiators are holding up and performing long term?

Seriously thinking about ordering one to replace a Koyo which I just put in about 3 months ago that is already seeping from the top tank. OEM is of course an option, but I really like the idea of an all-aluminum unit.

Still holding strong and performing perfectly! I seriously cannot seem to get the rig to run over 98C with this thing (and that was towing a trailer about 3000 pounds, AC on, 85 mph, 95 degree day, steep grade and 7000 ft altitude). Well worth the $$$ in my opinion.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Never mind

 

[scottryana]

Yep Ron Davis was also $950 and a 4 week wait, when I called them.

Just to add that a new OEM 3 row brass or aluminum core is currently at ~$530 shipped. I got my 3 row brass OEM shipped for that from American Toyota NM to PA.

I wonder how much this all aluminum one is currently for comparison of what it was in 2007 of ~$200 difference from OEM.

EDIT:

http://www.man-a-fre.com/pa/aluminumradiatorfzj80.htm

$950 now.. ouch maybe worth it for the turbo/sc guys mostly

 

[turbocruiser]

Yep Ron Davis was also $950 and a 4 week wait, when I called them.

I think they are still in stock at Man-A-Fre for the same price point of $950. But, as I've tried to say in several threads over the years the stock radiator is really superb and unless you have FI you probably don't need the Ron Davis Racing unit, heck even with FI I didn't "need" it but now that I have it here it is well worth it in my opinion.

 

[rockrod]

The stock radiator is plenty. It keeps a v8 swap cool just fine.

 

[turbocruiser]

The stock radiator is plenty. It keeps a v8 swap cool just fine.

Yes, I've stated that several times in this thread as well as others. Still doesn't mean that there aren't any advantages to the RDR radiator over the OEM radiator.

 

[djsixbillion]

Still holding strong and performing perfectly! I seriously cannot seem to get the rig to run over 98C with this thing (and that was towing a trailer about 3000 pounds, AC on, 85 mph, 95 degree day, steep grade and 7000 ft altitude). Well worth the $$$ in my opinion.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear! Yes the cost is frightening and yes the OEM rad is perfectly adequate, but when did that piece of logic come into the equation? Logically I don't NEED a supercharged engine and all the other doodads on the truck, but there they are.

 

[scottryana]

My personal opinion is font go MAF go Ron Davis, but that's solely based off of past personal experiences with the company not this particular product: my Rob Davis in my 55 was flawless.

 

[turbocruiser]

My personal opinion is font go MAF go Ron Davis, but that's solely based off of past personal experiences with the company not this particular product: my Rob Davis in my 55 was flawless.

Just to clarify any confusion they are the same radiator.

 

[scottryana]

No they aren't. Not according to Ron Davis. Maybe they used to be but I talked to them 9 months ago and Bill Williamson, Ron Davis tech support said its not the same radiator.

Additionally when I called the MAF was $840 and the Ron Davis was $950. Now they are both posted at $950. So who knows. But if it is a RD why bother buying through MAF?

 

[NLXTACY]

I called MAF when I was rebuilding my motor. They said it was not RD. That was a year ago.

 

[turbocruiser]

No they aren't. Not according to Ron Davis. Maybe they used to be but I talked to them 9 months ago and Bill Williamson, Ron Davis tech support said its not the same radiator.

Additionally when I called the MAF was $840 and the Ron Davis was $950. Now they are both posted at $950. So who knows. But if it is a RD why bother buying through MAF?

Okay well then what probably has happened is that they used to be Ron Davis Racing and now Man-A-Fre has subbed to someone else but back when I was purchasing it definitely was Ron Davis Racing. I betcha Man-A-Fre just thought that since Ron Davis Racing was charging 950 they could too. So it sounds like they mimicked the design and the dollars. In fact when I was ordering mine from MAF there was literature within the packaging from RDR and I contacted RDR for some support and they answered right away. I too would rather purchase product from RDR than MAF; I've had several small issues over the years through MAF so I've stopped using them too. Anyways, sorry for confusing everyone by essentially "trying to clarify any confusion." DOH!

 

[superjuice]

Turbocruiser - did you have any issue with the trans line coming up short on the drivers side? I installed a RD radiator this weekend and the line is streatched to the max. This is the line off of the right angle radiator nipple to the metal junction just under the battery box. Maybe I switched the line position or something, I think its OK, but its not like it was. The line is sandwitched between the power steering lines and the fan shroud. Something just doesnt seem right

Havent seen it go over 184F yet, but i havent taxed it at all either.