Builds HJ61 Cruiser build (2 Viewers)

[mcguirejohnson]

Yes, the baffle is dead center, and maybe 6-7mm thick. Right under the center heat shield bolt.

...I do have stock gearing, witch over here is 3.7... Right now i'm sticking with that, since i'm going down to 255/85r16's which will be a 33.4x10 or so. It should improve my fuel expenses too Will be killer expensive to regear these cable locker diffs, well a tad pricier than open diffs.

I did find my leak today, put transfer in neutral, gear in 5th, tied up the clutch fan and set the hand throttle to 2000rpm!
Felt around for leaks, and i could feel a small push around the turbo manifold.
Loosened up the dump heat shield, and snugged the nuts up another 1/4 turn, DID THE TRICK!!

I will experiment a bit more with shimming the wastegate bracket tomorrow. i'll go for 1.1bar first, and see how that feels.

Ah okay that makes sense that you are getting better efficiency. Lower gears + bigger tires = lower rpms...

I have to have 37s at least once in my life so I am going to try them out, eventually I want to lower it with a 3 link setup and run 33s or so, but that is way down the line...

Good job on finding the boost leak! Could you post up a picture of where you are shimming the waste gate? Once I get gauges I will mess around with letting the old girl breath a little bit more.

Any noticeable difference in power from turning up the fuel and adding a little more boost? If I'm not mistaken they are set to 7psi stock and can stand up to 15 ish psi.

 

[TLC Norway]

700*c is right about 1300*f. That's pretty hot! I wouldn't run her much hotter than that.

True, that would be my max point. Was really pushing it there. Had to go all scientific to see the max.
Would have been interesting to see the numbers before i upgraded the exhaust.
When i get the boost a tad up, and the fuel dialed, i'll find the sweet spot.
Snorkel will be on in a week or two, and maybe a intercooler later on. WTA is probably my line.

 

[TLC Norway]

I'm getting confused about the seat heaters... I cant find out if i really need the K-Bus.
Seems like its some sort of Diagnostic common connection point. Witch i dont want.

Aah... read about someone putting newer seats (like mine) into older bmw's, that had the old potentiometer seat heating.
If deleting the K-Bus from the circuit does not allow me to run the oem 3-stage button, i will try to go that route.
That leads me back to connecting them in series, with 24v source.

but i cant find something as simple as what pins to connect to the seat for heat...
I already have power to the seats for movement, so when i find the correct pins i can try to hook them up to verify that the heat pads actually work. I'll ohm from pin 23 and 25 to ground and see if there is resistance there.
It should be one of them to power the seats on, and one of them as the temp sensor. (maybe thickness of cable is the clue)


I'll get into the shimmig later today, @mcguirejohnson

 

[TLC Norway]

I did 4 shims on the upper wastegate bracket bolt, none on the lower.
Went from 0.6 to 0.9 bar, aka 13psi.
Trick was to put grease on the shims, so they dont slip away, hard to get my hands down there.
Also did half a turn out at on-boost fuel stop. (second picture)

Behind the 10mm nut there is a 3mm hex screw, just did half a turn out for now.

A really noticeable effect, and i get to 0.5 bar at 15-1600 rpm, from there it pops to 0.9 really fast.
-staying at 0.9b on full throttle brings the pyro up to 550 and 600*c if going hard.
Did a 5 hour drive with lots of hills yesterday, and only passed 550*c (1000F) once or twice in the steepest hills, if going at it.

Tires got delivered today, studs are stocked, wheels are rusty.
Pouring rain outside, but i'll rig something to clean up the wheels and get a layer of 2k epoxy primer down, and did a bold choice yesterday on color!
I'll probably get them mounted in a few days, as soon as paint dries, gotta man up and dig out the tire irons.

Snapped a photo last night in Tromsø, they changed the lights at all the Statoil gas stations.

#Cruiseforthecause

 

[boots4]

It's always nice to have some extra power.

 

[HoJo 61]

What kind of winter tires did you end up with? Or did i miss something?

 

[dkyuss]

can you give me some pics of the connectors? Large wires will power your seat motors (which I think you already have figured? If so please ID the wires on the connectors....)
Large wires will also power the heaters, but due to the PWM signal also required, you will not get any continuity to the heater circuit unless the PWM line is 'biased' or energized. The PWM needs probably 5VDC (or maybe 12 VDC... I am new to the automotive electrical world but try 5V first) and will be low amperage, so small wire.

When you set your multimeter to the diode test mode you should see somewhere (I assume) between .5 to 1.5 VDC read on the meter when biased (multimeter red wire on PWM connection and multimter black wire on ground connection). When this PWM signal is in its 'biased' or energized state, you should now have continuity (and only when biased) on your heater circuit. The PWM is a high speed electrical switch that varies its pulse on vs off length and enables current through the heater circuit.

The temperature wires will also be small gauge, but have continuity and read a value in ohms. The Ohm value is directly proportional to the temperature. So if you can measure a different # outside VS in a heated space you can be sure on the temperature probe.

Hopefully the K-bus can be simply ignored. That the heat switch module is a 'slave' on the k-bus system and simply reports its own status and does not require any specific input.

You could use a generic PWM generator circuit. Ideally something like this that you can adjust and dial in to a setting you are happy with.
High Performance PWM Triangle Sine Wave Signal Generator Module for DIY Project

 

[TLC Norway]

It's always nice to have some extra power.

yes, there is good stock power in the 12HT, but with theese small adjustments i can see that under daily cruising the pyro is lower, and the boost resides at medium pressure at normal speeds. Before, the EGT's would have been higher due to the restricted boost and airflow.
I think i'm pretty close to what im expecting from the 12ht with that many miles on it.
I'll keep an eye on the blowby, havent seen much and does not use more than a few ml of oil between the oil changes.

What kind of winter tires did you end up with? Or did i miss something?

As the tires i wanted was not avavible (Hakka LT2) i went with KM2 255/85r16 center siped and i will stud them myself.
Most of my winter driving is on ice, ice with snow, packed snow and 10-30in of snow. They will be fine.

can you give me some pics of the connectors? Large wires will power your seat motors (which I think you already have figured? If so please ID the wires on the connectors....)
Large wires will also power the heaters, but due to the PWM signal also required, you will not get any continuity to the heater circuit unless the PWM line is 'biased' or energized. The PWM needs probably 5VDC (or maybe 12 VDC... I am new to the automotive electrical world but try 5V first) and will be low amperage, so small wire.

When you set your multimeter to the diode test mode you should see somewhere (I assume) between .5 to 1.5 VDC read on the meter when biased (multimeter red wire on PWM connection and multimter black wire on ground connection). When this PWM signal is in its 'biased' or energized state, you should now have continuity (and only when biased) on your heater circuit. The PWM is a high speed electrical switch that varies its pulse on vs off length and enables current through the heater circuit.

The temperature wires will also be small gauge, but have continuity and read a value in ohms. The Ohm value is directly proportional to the temperature. So if you can measure a different # outside VS in a heated space you can be sure on the temperature probe.

Hopefully the K-bus can be simply ignored. That the heat switch module is a 'slave' on the k-bus system and simply reports its own status and does not require any specific input.

You could use a generic PWM generator circuit. Ideally something like this that you can adjust and dial in to a setting you are happy with.
High Performance PWM Triangle Sine Wave Signal Generator Module for DIY Project

Can take a couple photos later today, and yes i hooked up the motors, largest connectors.
I need to find myself a voltage adjustable transformator to test this.

Right now im busy gettin dirty, because theese:

need to look like this:

before mounting to theese:

 

[dkyuss]

I need to find myself a voltage adjustable transformator to test this.

Or two multimeters. The multimeter in diode testing mode provides the 5VDC to enable the PWM line. When the multimeter is connected and providing a small voltage value as feedback, the heat circuit is 'enabled'. Use the second multimter on ohms to find the circuit that 'opens' and 'closes' when the 5V is on or off the PWM line.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[HoJo 61]

As the tires i wanted was not avavible (Hakka LT2) i went with KM2 255/85r16 center siped and i will stud them myself.
Most of my winter driving is on ice, ice with snow, packed snow and 10-30in of snow. They will be fine.

Nice, i just bought KM2's in almost same size, 33x10,5. Will you sipe them by yourself? I have to do that also.
Looks like we have pretty much the same driving conditions too.

 

[TLC Norway]

Or two multimeters. The multimeter in diode testing mode provides the 5VDC to enable the PWM line. When the multimeter is connected and providing a small voltage value as feedback, the heat circuit is 'enabled'. Use the second multimter on ohms to find the circuit that 'opens' and 'closes' when the 5V is on or off the PWM line.

Hope this makes sense.

My multimeter actually died, so i ordered a new one a couple days ago, went with a Mastech Clamp meter, previous one held up great. I'll check it out when it arrives

This is the seat connector, I have power P13 and ground P14.
There is two small connectors at the middle yellow section (no number), a big connector at P25, and a small to the right of P24.
My guess is P25 is seat heat power.
Can't figure the rest, I hope the P14 is common ground for the seat.

A sneak peak at the wheels, don't know if the colour choice turns out as planned...
We'll see tomorrow!

 

[TLC Norway]

Seat heat discussion continued here: Torfab BMW bracket issue...any advice?

and still my conclusion is that i can heat up pin 25 with a potentiometer.
OR, i have found a seat heat toggle switch in my spare bin, and it seems to match the 61 dash! (dont know where it came from, as i have never seen a heated seated 60! (?)
they are HI/off/LO, but i guess i'm missing a relay with a resistor for low. This could be found in any car, right, like a 4runner, i think they have the same switch... 4 leads from the switch.

A dirty old switch! i need another one, and the relays... 4leads from the seat heat switch.

 

[TLC Norway]

Wheels are finally done...!

 

[TLC Norway]

Didnt get much time in the garage tonight (container) but i had to mount a tire up to see how they fit.
i got confident the color choice of the wheel was good. Matte bronze, but seems very gloss with the clear on top.
Kinda reminds me of the color of the hub dial!


Easy-Balance powder, had good luck with them before. 200grams

Wigglewiggle from behind, so i dont scratch the new paint.

1 Down, 3 to go!

35's vs 255/85r16

 

[cruisermatt]

That's a weak 35!

 

[TLC Norway]

Yes, in many ways weak!

-or maybe the km2's are just strong! ;p

 

[TLC Norway]

Tires mounted and aired to 35psi. wheels fit without a spacer, but i put on a 1" on every corner to get a wider stance.
Had to go for a test run, sand balancing works a treat, not a single wobble!! Ride is awsome.
Frame height is 15mm lower than last set of 35x12.5r15.
Getting used to the color, but they stand out.

Poser shots

 

[TLC Norway]

Snorkel is on. I think the top cap is a bit high... will trim it down a inch or so..

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Digging the new shoes!

 

[hj 60]

Nice wheels, I had those rims but had to sell because also 7 splitrims,

The snorkel needs the drain so dont put is to low and close it: