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Fox Shox 2.0's Are On! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bikeman
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Did you ever figure out your valving? I plan to keep the truck relatively light as well.
More Fox Shox On
I have been searching on and off for the past 6 months or so for new shocks to replace a leaky front OME n73. After doing quite a lot of searching, reading, and calling, I settled on the Fox 2.0 remote res, for one main reason. It was pretty much the only one that would fit that had the appropriate length.
Shock:
Fox part # 980-24-636 2.0 SERIES STEM TOP WITH BUSHING MOUNT REMOTE RESERVOIR (.625 DIAMETER SHAFT)
Appears that the Stem mount kit is part 803-00-221-A, but not sure.
This shock comes with a stem top and standard bottom mount from the factory. After conversing with Sonny at Down South Motor Sports, he informed me that the lower eyelet can be swapped out to a stem mount. This makes it pretty much a bolt in shock!
(The replacement mounts cost a bit extra) Plus, the stem mounts are (iirc) 1/2" instead of dinky 3/8" on some shocks.
Because the lower mount is changed, the effective length of the shock is 24 7/8 extended, compared to a listed length of 25.19. Compressed is 14 7/8 compared to listed 15.19. Measured from shelf to shelf, with no washer or bushing included.
Bushings:
The bushings from Fox are aprox 2mm greater in stack height than the OME's. So add in 4mm in overall length if comparing the two. The "bottom out" bushing on the shaft measures 3/8"
Fitment:
The lengths above make this shock just about perfect for an OME heavy spring. It lands right between the standard length and L OME shocks.
Dimensions:
N73: Extended = 24.2"
Compressed = 13.9"
Bushing Thickness = 16mm
Fox: Extended = 24 7/8"
Compressed = 14 7/8"
Bushing Thickness = 18mm
Measurements:
On vehicle measurements at normal ride height show that there is 5 5/8 available for compression on the shock. There is ~4" available for compression until first bumpstop contact from the springs.
So fairly well balanced imo. Aprox. 4.5 inches of droop avail, and 4-5 for compression, depending on how much bump stop compression is present.
Installation:
By far the most time consuming portion of the project was figuring out where to mount the remote reservioiurs. The DS needs to go on the wheel well (Won't fit into the engine compartment.) The PS however kinda needs to go inside, as the brake line mount gets in the way of mounting onto the shock body.
Actually fitting the shocks into the mounts was also a SOB. With 200psi in each shock, they are REALLY hard to compress, espeically in an awkward position. Just make sure your bushings are right side up when installing.
Oh, and cause I'm sure some will comment on the shock boots: Around here they use gravel instead of salt on the roads. Hard chrome shafts will resist rust and corrosion very well given the chrome isnt' damaged. So....to keep gravel off the shocks I put on shock boots, with loose bottoms. I'll report back later on how they work out.
To sum up, this is an awesome option for those folks running heavy springs, since the heavies are kinda in no mans land of lift height. No adapters required with this setup so you dont loose compression with spacers. Only measurement I have left to take is sway bar to DS clearance. With the extra 1" of droop, there is a chance it may hit. If so, small spacers are easy to make.
I think the thing I like most about these shocks is the ability to rebuild them. To me thats worth the extra cost up front, as they don't become throw away if a seal goes out.
So, here's some pics.
I have been searching on and off for the past 6 months or so for new shocks to replace a leaky front OME n73. After doing quite a lot of searching, reading, and calling, I settled on the Fox 2.0 remote res, for one main reason. It was pretty much the only one that would fit that had the appropriate length.
Shock:
Fox part # 980-24-636 2.0 SERIES STEM TOP WITH BUSHING MOUNT REMOTE RESERVOIR (.625 DIAMETER SHAFT)
Appears that the Stem mount kit is part 803-00-221-A, but not sure.
This shock comes with a stem top and standard bottom mount from the factory. After conversing with Sonny at Down South Motor Sports, he informed me that the lower eyelet can be swapped out to a stem mount. This makes it pretty much a bolt in shock!
(The replacement mounts cost a bit extra) Plus, the stem mounts are (iirc) 1/2" instead of dinky 3/8" on some shocks. Because the lower mount is changed, the effective length of the shock is 24 7/8 extended, compared to a listed length of 25.19. Compressed is 14 7/8 compared to listed 15.19. Measured from shelf to shelf, with no washer or bushing included.
Bushings:
The bushings from Fox are aprox 2mm greater in stack height than the OME's. So add in 4mm in overall length if comparing the two. The "bottom out" bushing on the shaft measures 3/8"
Fitment:
The lengths above make this shock just about perfect for an OME heavy spring. It lands right between the standard length and L OME shocks.
Dimensions:
N73: Extended = 24.2"
Compressed = 13.9"
Bushing Thickness = 16mm
Fox: Extended = 24 7/8"
Compressed = 14 7/8"
Bushing Thickness = 18mm
Measurements:
On vehicle measurements at normal ride height show that there is 5 5/8 available for compression on the shock. There is ~4" available for compression until first bumpstop contact from the springs.
So fairly well balanced imo. Aprox. 4.5 inches of droop avail, and 4-5 for compression, depending on how much bump stop compression is present.
Installation:
By far the most time consuming portion of the project was figuring out where to mount the remote reservioiurs. The DS needs to go on the wheel well (Won't fit into the engine compartment.) The PS however kinda needs to go inside, as the brake line mount gets in the way of mounting onto the shock body.
Actually fitting the shocks into the mounts was also a SOB. With 200psi in each shock, they are REALLY hard to compress, espeically in an awkward position. Just make sure your bushings are right side up when installing.
Oh, and cause I'm sure some will comment on the shock boots: Around here they use gravel instead of salt on the roads. Hard chrome shafts will resist rust and corrosion very well given the chrome isnt' damaged. So....to keep gravel off the shocks I put on shock boots, with loose bottoms. I'll report back later on how they work out.
To sum up, this is an awesome option for those folks running heavy springs, since the heavies are kinda in no mans land of lift height. No adapters required with this setup so you dont loose compression with spacers. Only measurement I have left to take is sway bar to DS clearance. With the extra 1" of droop, there is a chance it may hit. If so, small spacers are easy to make.
I think the thing I like most about these shocks is the ability to rebuild them. To me thats worth the extra cost up front, as they don't become throw away if a seal goes out.
So, here's some pics.
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Pics
New box!
Compared to a blown OME.
Length Difference
Don't forget to wax the shock bodies per Fox recommendation.
Tackled the DS first. Premounted the res.
Cleaned all the dirt off everything first.
Installed and fitting the res. hose. Notice how it routes through the engine bay first.
Lower mount.
Upper mount
Spring compression avail:
Splash guard back in place. Res is mounted up far enough to avoid hittin the lower shock mount.
On to the PS. First attempt at mounting on-shock. Just didn't fit...
Top mount of not fitting:
Quick bracket to hold the res:
New box!
Compared to a blown OME.
Length Difference
Don't forget to wax the shock bodies per Fox recommendation.
Tackled the DS first. Premounted the res.
Cleaned all the dirt off everything first.
Installed and fitting the res. hose. Notice how it routes through the engine bay first.
Lower mount.
Upper mount
Spring compression avail:
Splash guard back in place. Res is mounted up far enough to avoid hittin the lower shock mount.
On to the PS. First attempt at mounting on-shock. Just didn't fit...
Top mount of not fitting:
Quick bracket to hold the res:
Last edited:
Final pics
Final Mounted Shock:
Res mounted up: Have to figure out where to put the diagnostic port...
Final Mounted Shock:
Res mounted up: Have to figure out where to put the diagnostic port...
Nice work! I like the double pin mounts, keep us updated on if they last or get tweaked with flex.
Maybe wrap up that resi can on the PS, all that heat is going to make that shock toasty. better yet, maybe try a 90º fitting on the hose so you can route it into the wheelwell (that's what I did)
Maybe wrap up that resi can on the PS, all that heat is going to make that shock toasty. better yet, maybe try a 90º fitting on the hose so you can route it into the wheelwell (that's what I did)
Excellent writeup Coax! This is a great looking setup, something to tempt me to take a look at my suspension setup again and rethink about going for an upgrade. I think you hit on all the important points that I was wondering about from the OP's information on his similar setup, but you have a lift height more similar to mine.
Please let us know how things turn out with the ride and off-road functionality, I'm definitely interested in the outcome.
Please let us know how things turn out with the ride and off-road functionality, I'm definitely interested in the outcome.
Thanks for the info ..
That looks great, really good work on that. A bit of tweaking with that hose 90* and shorter would get that can mounted to the shock nice.
How much clearance do you have from the can and the tie rod on the drivers side and full bump? I would be worried about hitting it and breaking off the valve.
Looking forward to hearing how it rides......what valving did you go with front and rear and would you adjust it at all?
How much clearance do you have from the can and the tie rod on the drivers side and full bump? I would be worried about hitting it and breaking off the valve.
Looking forward to hearing how it rides......what valving did you go with front and rear and would you adjust it at all?
Yea there definitly is room for improvement on the mounting. I kinda figured it was a lesser of two evils as far as heat goes. Had I mounted it on-shock, it would be right next to the "y" of the exhaust. If I keep it in the bay I will try and get some reflective material or some such. A new fitting may also be in order for the hose too....it never ends :-D
The can to bolt of tie rod is probably the least clearance I have in the whole system. I measured it out and it should be OK, but still need to flex things up. I may try and push the canister up another inch or so, then it will have no problems at all.
I only got the fronts so far...at ~200 a pop they have to be purchased in increments
. As for valving, they are 60/65 right now. Not much seat time yet, but I have a feeling I'll go to 50/70 ish at some point when it gets warmer outside and I feel like pulling them apart.
Coax, THANK YOU very much for sharing all the effort you put into this project. Mine is lifted about 2.5 to 3 inches so this set up should work great. Once I can budget the $$ for them. This will be a HUGE improvement for 2 to 3 inch lifts where there were no other options before.
J
J
Coax, how are you liking the ride with the Fox 2.0's in front? Is it vastly different from the OME shocks? Also, is there any reasons something like these wouldn't work in order to avoid the clearance issues with the remote reservoir? ->
Fox 2.0 Pro Series Emulsion Smooth Body Shocks 5/8" & 7/8" Shaft
Fox 2.0 Pro Series Emulsion Smooth Body Shocks 5/8" & 7/8" Shaft
To be honest I haven't had the opportunity to test them on anything other than pavement. Still lots of snow up here. That said, I don't think they perform that much differently to OME's, yet. I think I've got too much compression dampning and not enough rebound, so once I have a chance to actually use them off road with a full load I'll think about revalving. Looks to be a pretty quick and easy process.
As for what you linked above, those all come with eyelet style upper and lower mounts. Also the 10" is a longer compressed/extended length than the stem top remote res. that I have. So, there is no reason you couldn't run those with an adapter on top and a swap out on bottom, but you'd be looking at somewhere in a ~17.5" compressed shock. Too much for OME heavies IMO. I'd just recomend taking some good measurements and seeing what shock fits best. Though the reserviours were really not that bad, and you get a nicer shock out of the deal. Also the res. problem may be solved with some shorter hoses and 90degree fittings...maybe.
Hey Coax - Saw this guys 80 set-up with remote reservoirs here:
Indonesia 4x4 Expedition - Expedition Portal Forum
You might get some ideas on page 2?
What would be a good valving to start with for the Fox Res shock above that have the stud-stud mounts?
The weight on my front end is an ARB, dual battery, rockrails.
How hard is it to re-valve shocks like the Fox? Any special tools needed?
The weight on my front end is an ARB, dual battery, rockrails.
How hard is it to re-valve shocks like the Fox? Any special tools needed?
Cool thanks for the link. I think what I've got now should suffice for a while. It's not the cleanest but it seems pretty functional. One of the differences in the stem mounts is due to the shorter distance between mounting surface and where the res. hose comes out, the hose routes into the engine bay first. As opposed to some of the earlier pics in this thread where the res. hose is low enough to exit into the wheel well.
Swap out the rears and report back
Oh indeed! Once I find another $450 I'll do the rears. I'll probably order a set or two of shims as well so I can play around with them a bit.
I really don't know what a good valving would be. There are so few people that run fox's on the 80's, and such a wide range of vehicle setups that its hard to tell. Factor in typical useage (crawling, expedition, pavement, etc) and valving may vary a bunch between different vehicles. As for revalving, I recall seeing a video out there somewhere, but I don't remember it lookin that complicated. Let out nitrogen, remove cap, remove c-clip, remove piston, unbolt shim stack, etc. As for tools, probably a torque wrench, c-clip pliers, pin tool, allen wrench, and a way to put nitrogen back into the system.
If you end up going with fox post up what valving you use so we can start to get some data points!
I've got 35/80 in my stem tops, with no additional weight from armor and it's a pretty good ride. I spoke with Downsouth and this is what we ended up with. Intended use is some moderate crawling, overland and desert stuff whenever I make it out west. They are paired with 850Js and 860s.
Just returned from 5 days in Canyonlands and my initial impression of the 60/65 valving is this: A touch light on the rebound, and a fair bit heavy on the compression. So, I'll be re-valving the fronts to something in the area of 40/70.
The driving in the maze was a mix of washboard, 40mph dirt roads, and slow 4wheeling. Was loaded with 120lbs of water, 80lbs of extra gas, 60lbs of snow chains, plus tools, food, 2 people, gear, 2 bikes, roof box, chairs, etc. The 60/65 reminded me quite a bit of the Nitrochargers. Bounces around quite a bit on the washboards and doesn't seem to soak up the small quick hits, but instead transfers them directly to my spine
At really slow speeds they seemed to work well but swayed a bit more than ideal. At any rate, the fun continues!
The driving in the maze was a mix of washboard, 40mph dirt roads, and slow 4wheeling. Was loaded with 120lbs of water, 80lbs of extra gas, 60lbs of snow chains, plus tools, food, 2 people, gear, 2 bikes, roof box, chairs, etc. The 60/65 reminded me quite a bit of the Nitrochargers. Bounces around quite a bit on the washboards and doesn't seem to soak up the small quick hits, but instead transfers them directly to my spine
At really slow speeds they seemed to work well but swayed a bit more than ideal. At any rate, the fun continues!
