FJ60 "Classic Stumbling Issue" - EGR Valve? (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottcb
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
How did this work out for you? Fix the stumble issues?
Not completely. I switched out a few vacuum switches here and there as well and the issue is definitely better but still slightly present.
like someone has mentioned in this thread or another thread about this, it’s a combination of parts that are 30+ years old ya know.
here’s my hesitation journey
Quest to identify hesitation and smog test prep
Been reading a few threads from the past on hesitation in FJ60's and thought I would document my voyage for prosperity. Thanks to @Beachcomber Bernie for the focus by the way. Classic hesitation and stumbling in my 1985 FJ60 at around 2200-2800/3000 Rpms. When I brought the cruiser home a few...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thx will read your journey!Not completely. I switched out a few vacuum switches here and there as well and the issue is definitely better but still slightly present.
like someone has mentioned in this thread or another thread about this, it’s a combination of parts that are 30+ years old ya know.
here’s my hesitation journey
Quest to identify hesitation and smog test prep
Been reading a few threads from the past on hesitation in FJ60's and thought I would document my voyage for prosperity. Thanks to @Beachcomber Bernie for the focus by the way. Classic hesitation and stumbling in my 1985 FJ60 at around 2200-2800/3000 Rpms. When I brought the cruiser home a few...
So this EGR Block mod help solve the problem the most?
There does not seem to be an issue when the EGR valve is disabled, gauge by the seat of the pants.
Its really unnoticeable, and acceleration is great. Ive been told/read that disabling the EGR with out recurving the distributor can harm the engine.
I'd like to hear from those that have disabled the EGR valve as well though.
Its really unnoticeable, and acceleration is great. Ive been told/read that disabling the EGR with out recurving the distributor can harm the engine.
I'd like to hear from those that have disabled the EGR valve as well though.
Thx will read your journey!
So this EGR Block mod help solve the problem the most?
For my desmogged truck, the green wire mod to disable the emissions “computer” from controlling the idle control solenoid on the carburetor fixed my issues.
Thanks Jason, just ordered a modulator, will pick it up Friday and give it a try. Picked up a used EGR valve, going to give it a good cleaning. Any suggestions on the best cleaning approach of my EGR valve that doesn't ruin the diaphragm? I need these fully functioning to pass smog. FYI - California Carburetor on Marine Street in Lawndale CA still rebuilds FJ60 Carbs, and does a pretty good job. Have used them for a number of different vehicles, including my FJ60. MP
@mcp13 awesome. I recommend using a metal bowl and letting the plunger sit in enough liquid to soak everything but the actual diaphragm.
Not sure if I mentioned this in this thread or some other thread but the last FJ40/60/80 mechanic I took the vehicle to before I sold it recommended inserting a washer in the exhaust port to restrict the valve from opening too soon. Opening too soon was my issue.
If I was to do things over I would probably go with Holley Sniper conversion and just pay the $200 a year to do a dirtay smog pass. I spent so much time sourcing used smog parts from the east coast and texas areas. So many hours replacing, parts, cleaning parts, switching things around etc.
Not sure if I mentioned this in this thread or some other thread but the last FJ40/60/80 mechanic I took the vehicle to before I sold it recommended inserting a washer in the exhaust port to restrict the valve from opening too soon. Opening too soon was my issue.
If I was to do things over I would probably go with Holley Sniper conversion and just pay the $200 a year to do a dirtay smog pass. I spent so much time sourcing used smog parts from the east coast and texas areas. So many hours replacing, parts, cleaning parts, switching things around etc.
Before you go to all that trouble, i inserted an adjustable valve on the hose going from the EGR to the modulator. It helped alot , just needs to be checked every now and then
Thats great advice.
Sacto60
1987 FJ60 2" OME 33s
For those running the golf tee method, me included, I am told that you’re running 100% gas that’s why everyone says night and day- but that will lead to running hotter temps in your cylinders, by maybe 25% so I’m told. If you drive hard and freeway speeds or in mountains that could be problematic over time. Just FYI.
thread bump. Can you detail this? is the valve on/off or does it restrict the flow? Which hose? There's a larger hose going from the bottom of the modulator to the J pipe, and there's a smaller hose going from port P (or Q?) to the EGR opening diaphragm. seems like either might work in reducing the speed at which the EGR opens, or delaying when it opens in general.
Does anyone have any data on what amount of vacuum the EGR is supposed to open? Mine does with around 3-5 inHg.
Tried swapping moduluators and VSVs, both pass the test but my EGR is causing a major deadzone 1.8k-2.5k
Last edited:
Tired EGR valves open too far and too quickly which causes too much EGR gas to enter the manifold- and not enough gasoline — the fuel mixture is all messed up.
Old EGR valves do not like light throttle. It’s best to just step on the gas pedal with authority to work past the stuttering zone. You won’t use any more gasoline doing that because what you’re actually doing is just correcting the fuel mixture.
Try it. Step on the gas. Don’t be afraid of it.
Old EGR valves do not like light throttle. It’s best to just step on the gas pedal with authority to work past the stuttering zone. You won’t use any more gasoline doing that because what you’re actually doing is just correcting the fuel mixture.
Try it. Step on the gas. Don’t be afraid of it.
That's what I've been doing but it's very annoying. I just want it to drive normally again. And for this car I am keeping the smog stuff in place. My other 60 is getting the delete. But jesus there has to be a way to correct this EGR valve going nuts... a valve on a vacuum hose sounds like a great idea, delay or slow down the valve opening point... just want to know how and where others have done it.
Toyota makes VTV (vacuum transfer valves) that serve that exact purpose. They slow down the actuation of a diaphragm by requiring the vacuum to flow through a pin hole in the valve, but allow full flow the other way.
You’ve already got a few of them on your engine.
Here’s a picture of what they look like. Different colors designate different flow rates. Faster or slower.
Connect one between the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator. It will slow down the actuation of the EGR valve and likely provide smoother acceleration.
You’ve already got a few of them on your engine.
Here’s a picture of what they look like. Different colors designate different flow rates. Faster or slower.
Connect one between the EGR valve and the EGR vacuum modulator. It will slow down the actuation of the EGR valve and likely provide smoother acceleration.
@iansplatinum
I hear you...total pain in the behind.
I went to the junk yard and found a bunch of different VTV's and none of them worked for me as all of them let out too much for me to find the sweet spot so I tried using a drip irrigation adjustable thing that I found at my local hardware similar to this.
I really wish there was a metal alternative that could work. The plastic irrigation works but its really hard finding the sweet spot. I ended using my handheld bleeder kit/ pump like this and measured the vacuum pull . Took a while as it the dial is crazy sensitive. A hair to the right and its too restrictive and a hair to the left and too open.
This works and my FJ stopped stuttering and there was no noticeable pinging but I think the heat from the motor over time tweaked the setting. If you find something different please let me know!
I hear you...total pain in the behind.
I went to the junk yard and found a bunch of different VTV's and none of them worked for me as all of them let out too much for me to find the sweet spot so I tried using a drip irrigation adjustable thing that I found at my local hardware similar to this.
I really wish there was a metal alternative that could work. The plastic irrigation works but its really hard finding the sweet spot. I ended using my handheld bleeder kit/ pump like this and measured the vacuum pull . Took a while as it the dial is crazy sensitive. A hair to the right and its too restrictive and a hair to the left and too open.
This works and my FJ stopped stuttering and there was no noticeable pinging but I think the heat from the motor over time tweaked the setting. If you find something different please let me know!
Wanted to report good results with a stock restrictor valve between the modulator and EGR diaphragm.
You can see the same restrictor in the stock location top center of the first photo. I had a spare one from another 60 in the driveway.
I tried a blue VTV (black end towards modulator) but it just felt like the EGR was disabled, which makes sense because the blue VTV is very restrictive but will release the vacuum built up immediately. So I'm guessing the blue VTV doesn't allow enough vacuum to be built up in the EGR valve before the modulator releases it?
This white restrictor will dampen the flow of air in both directions so it'll slow the opening and closing of the EGR valve.
Which is exactly how it felt during the test drive- I could feel the EGR kick on but it wasn't causing the car to lurch back and forth. It felt much more subtle as it opened. My issue was so severe and annoying it felt like the clutch was starting to slip @ 2k. Now it feels like a subtle emissions power rob.
I was beginning to wonder why anyone ever bought these cars new- all my emissions equipment systems passed the tests. My only other driving experience with a 60 was desmogged.
To anyone experiencing this issue, try this!
Sucks that these valves are NLA.
If you steal one from your stock location, you'll need to find something else to go there (a spare VCV would work, blue towards air cleaner) because this circuit is a controlled small vacuum leak that you'd be making into a medium vacuum leak if you remove the white restrictor.
You can see the same restrictor in the stock location top center of the first photo. I had a spare one from another 60 in the driveway.
I tried a blue VTV (black end towards modulator) but it just felt like the EGR was disabled, which makes sense because the blue VTV is very restrictive but will release the vacuum built up immediately. So I'm guessing the blue VTV doesn't allow enough vacuum to be built up in the EGR valve before the modulator releases it?
This white restrictor will dampen the flow of air in both directions so it'll slow the opening and closing of the EGR valve.
Which is exactly how it felt during the test drive- I could feel the EGR kick on but it wasn't causing the car to lurch back and forth. It felt much more subtle as it opened. My issue was so severe and annoying it felt like the clutch was starting to slip @ 2k. Now it feels like a subtle emissions power rob.
I was beginning to wonder why anyone ever bought these cars new- all my emissions equipment systems passed the tests. My only other driving experience with a 60 was desmogged.
To anyone experiencing this issue, try this!
Sucks that these valves are NLA.
If you steal one from your stock location, you'll need to find something else to go there (a spare VCV would work, blue towards air cleaner) because this circuit is a controlled small vacuum leak that you'd be making into a medium vacuum leak if you remove the white restrictor.
Last edited:
Dr. Le** Strikes again
