Radio Options that appear classic (1 Viewer)

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Retro Sound makes a few head units that look "vintage" or "classic", but nothing exactly like the original radio. My solution was a radio out of a 2000 Corolla that had AM/FM/Cassette as well as a button for the trunk mounted CD changer. I got a black box off Amazon that allows you to pipe whatever audio you want into the CD changer input and then got a bluetooth receiver to wire up to it. It's all hidden under the dash and I go to bluetooth by hitting the "CD" button on the radio. The design of those head units hadn't changed much, so it looks fairly late 80s/early 90s in my 1982 60. The original radio looked like it was from 1966 though, so I don't even think the original ones looked period correct!

Somebody around here was making bluetooth receiver that looked like an FJ40 pull switch and wired directly to the speakers (has an internal amp). You could mount that to the dash I suppose, maybe in the hole for the hand throttle. The problem I had with it was that if you also have a radio wired up to the speakers, you could run into a situation where you're playing two things through the speakers at the same time: the aftermarket bluetooth and the radio! It didn't satisfy me without having to build my own elaborate switching mechanism which would require time and using more dash real estate.
 
Hey Everyone,

I am looking for a radio with the same face as the OEM, which has Bluetooth. Do you have any ideas?
Retro Sound makes a few head units that look "vintage" or "classic", but nothing exactly like the original radio. My solution was a radio out of a 2000 Corolla that had AM/FM/Cassette as well as a button for the trunk mounted CD changer. I got a black box off Amazon that allows you to pipe whatever audio you want into the CD changer input and then got a bluetooth receiver to wire up to it. It's all hidden under the dash and I go to bluetooth by hitting the "CD" button on the radio. The design of those head units hadn't changed much, so it looks fairly late 80s/early 90s in my 1982 60. The original radio looked like it was from 1966 though, so I don't even think the original ones looked period correct!

Somebody around here was making bluetooth receiver that looked like an FJ40 pull switch and wired directly to the speakers (has an internal amp). You could mount that to the dash I suppose, maybe in the hole for the hand throttle. The problem I had with it was that if you also have a radio wired up to the speakers, you could run into a situation where you're playing two things through the speakers at the same time: the aftermarket bluetooth and the radio! It didn't satisfy me without having to build my own elaborate switching mechanism which would require time and using more dash real estate.


not sure if you have a 60 or 62 ?


if a FJ60 or HJ60 , ?>?

i reproduce the OEM period correct face plate , exactly how TOYOTA made them via Injection Molding process , the fine details are stunning and the overall heavy duty quality i have improved , UV inhibiters , and modern hardeners in the 3 part mixture , i hand mold each one in-house


this can be your meal ticket to what your trying to do here ? :cool:

,



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.

 
Retro Sound makes a few head units that look "vintage" or "classic", but nothing exactly like the original radio. My solution was a radio out of a 2000 Corolla that had AM/FM/Cassette as well as a button for the trunk mounted CD changer. I got a black box off Amazon that allows you to pipe whatever audio you want into the CD changer input and then got a bluetooth receiver to wire up to it. It's all hidden under the dash and I go to bluetooth by hitting the "CD" button on the radio. The design of those head units hadn't changed much, so it looks fairly late 80s/early 90s in my 1982 60. The original radio looked like it was from 1966 though, so I don't even think the original ones looked period correct!

Somebody around here was making bluetooth receiver that looked like an FJ40 pull switch and wired directly to the speakers (has an internal amp). You could mount that to the dash I suppose, maybe in the hole for the hand throttle. The problem I had with it was that if you also have a radio wired up to the speakers, you could run into a situation where you're playing two things through the speakers at the same time: the aftermarket bluetooth and the radio! It didn't satisfy me without having to build my own elaborate switching mechanism which would require time and using more dash real estate.
Would you be able to share a little more about this setup? Radio model, Bluetooth box, how you handled the wiring, etc.

I’m trying to get a similar setup, I have an old Corolla radio from the early 90s that was plug and play with a 13pin CD input, but the Amazon Bluetooth adapters are designed for 13pin kenwoods.
 
Would you be able to share a little more about this setup? Radio model, Bluetooth box, how you handled the wiring, etc.

I’m trying to get a similar setup, I have an old Corolla radio from the early 90s that was plug and play with a 13pin CD input, but the Amazon Bluetooth adapters are designed for 13pin kenwoods.
There’s isn’t a wiring harness adapter so I used the connectors that plug into the radio and had to connect wires individually with butt splice connectors, then bundle it into a harness for organization.

Radio, I can’t recall the part number:
5239CFA9-478B-4340-ACC2-EFD068BD2EC3.jpeg

E98CE67F-CF6C-4A84-838F-C03CD7A1ED57.jpeg


Pinout:
974D420E-3672-4672-9762-F4E04783AD7F.jpeg


Bluetooth Receiver

CD Changer Adapter - I had to cut all the connectors off and butt splice all the bare wires where they needed to go.

Radio bracket

The general order is:
-Everything needs power and ground. I fed power from a fuse panel I installed on the driver’s side kick panel. Fuses are a good thing to have.
-Radio needs lighting power, key switched power, and constant power
-Bluetooth receiver feeds the Adapter, which feeds the radio inputs for the CD Changer. It his will likely introduce a ground loop. Lifting the ground between the adapter and the radio solved this.-
-Radio feeds speakers - I’m only using the two front ones, but the radio has outputs for a second pair. Or just splice them.
 
That’s great, thanks. I had originally thought of a similar setup using the newer style late 90s connections like you did, but was looking for a simpler method before I went splicing wires in. My end goal has been to have Bluetooth connection, tape player, and no static from the FM style transmitters in an OEM look which is difficult to find solutions for
 
That’s great, thanks. I had originally thought of a similar setup using the newer style late 90s connections like you did, but was looking for a simpler method before I went splicing wires in. My end goal has been to have Bluetooth connection, tape player, and no static from the FM style transmitters in an OEM look which is difficult to find solutions for
That's exactly what I was going for, with the addition of having the BT be direct, hidden, and seamless. No FM transmission crap. This ticks all the boxes for me.

Couple of edits to my post above:
-That CD changer adapter is only representative of the style. I think I found one that applied specifically to the year/make/model of vehicle the radio came out of. I think 2000-2002 Camry or Corolla if I remember correctly.
-You can see there's two connectors that plug in to the back. The one on the left side of the diagram deals exclusively with the CD Changer. I think I only used L Ch In, R Ch In, and the two TX channels. CD changers had a data "handshake" that was necessary for the changer and the head unit to communicate - that's what the adapter does, it gives the head unit the proper digital handshake so it will accept the incoming audio.
-I'm guessing the B+ wire on that connector is for feeding power to a CD player, and you could us it to power the adapter and Bluetooth receiver, but I haven't tried that - I gave them power directly off my aux fuse panel.
-I had horrible ground hum in the BT signal at higher volumes. I tried lifting every single ground possible with no luck. I think what did the trick is lifting the shield ground on the signal wires from the adapter to the head unit. I tried an isolation transformer on the ground with no luck too.
-I was wrong saying the radio needed three sources of power - it only needs switch B+ and the lighting power. There's no clock so it doesn't need constant power. I've got a clock in my inclinometer anyway.
 
There’s isn’t a wiring harness adapter so I used the connectors that plug into the radio and had to connect wires individually with butt splice connectors, then bundle it into a harness for organization.

Radio, I can’t recall the part number:
View attachment 3602973
View attachment 3602974

Pinout:
View attachment 3602971

Bluetooth Receiver

CD Changer Adapter - I had to cut all the connectors off and butt splice all the bare wires where they needed to go.

Radio bracket

The general order is:
-Everything needs power and ground. I fed power from a fuse panel I installed on the driver’s side kick panel. Fuses are a good thing to have.
-Radio needs lighting power, key switched power, and constant power
-Bluetooth receiver feeds the Adapter, which feeds the radio inputs for the CD Changer. It his will likely introduce a ground loop. Lifting the ground between the adapter and the radio solved this.-
-Radio feeds speakers - I’m only using the two front ones, but the radio has outputs for a second pair. Or just splice them.
Word of warning on some of these




Did you know :

The FJ60 radio size spec. is the same as the Inclo-meter , and the CB40M

- you can put the BC in the Radio hole or a inclo-meter

- a radio can go in the sandwich box , " face plate from a FJ40 may work

- i installed a CB40M in the Radio hole of my 12/78 FJ40

- i call these era audio and CB , " munchkin Size-Spec.



.

- These below are now a reality , and can make use of the non-usa female plug behind the LH of the FJ60 switch panel to use for the inclo-meter or CB40M etc


;

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not sure if you have a 60 or 62 ?


if a FJ60 or HJ60 , ?>?

i reproduce the OEM period correct face plate , exactly how TOYOTA made them via Injection Molding process , the fine details are stunning and the overall heavy duty quality i have improved , UV inhibiters , and modern hardeners in the 3 part mixture , i hand mold each one in-house


this can be your meal ticket to what your trying to do here ? :cool:

,



View attachment 3502151


View attachment 3502152
View attachment 3502153
View attachment 3502154
View attachment 3502155




.


Hey @ToyotaMatt . FYI, your site says the 60 series faceplates are $8,700.
 
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These folks have some nice offerings, note prices are in AUD, added bonus they have some sweet side stripe decals. No affiliation.

 

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