ntsqd
technerd
Maybe some AMP Research power steps? They don't give them away, but I've been impressed with those that I've seen.
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absolutely no problem. Having others question my assumptions help ensure a better build. If not this time, another time you will help prevent extra work/money/time.
thanks
BTW, got the pucks, bushings, washers and bolts on, save for #3 and #4, the bolts are too short by 1/2 inch. So I will visit the hardware store tomorrow morning for a grade 8, 6 inch bolt instead of the 5.5 inch.
Interestingly, #2 and #6 fit snug, but #3-5 all have gaps under the body - something bent in the body?
dougbert
Did you end up installing the 2 inch blocks for the body lift? and if so did you run into any issues?
Yep, 2 inchers installed
Pics of front, back and rear side in post #131
tires are 31x10.50x15
The only PITN (neck) was that the longest bolts in the kits were definitely TOO short by 1 inch. They came with 5.5 inchers fine threads, but I ended up buying 6.5 (fine threads) off of ebay.
I needed 4, but they had a box of 10, so now I have 6 or less extra, plus shorter 4.
It took me a couple of weeks, because I painted the mounts, upper and lower with Rust Bullet.Had to let dry for a few hours. I could not force myself to put new pucks on dirty and rusty mounts.I did one side at a time. wire brushing, 2 coats of RB and 1 count of glossy black. I lifted the one side high enough to get get the rotating wire brush in there AND on top of the frame. Did the top while the body was high enough. The DeWalt unit was/is great. $60 which saved so much time. The 'de-rusting' was the most time intensive. I could have slapped them all in, in one day, but....naaaaw
Ensuring that I sized each of the 6 mounts correctly prior to ordering was somewhat difficult for me. Had to cut off a couple of the old bolts and they would not budge. You reuse some of the old washers with the new bolts.
You just "gotta know" where the bolts are for mount #6. You get them from underneath - MUD was the only source for that info.
was told the gas filler would need to be moved, because the tank "is attached to the frame". Nope, the tank is mounted to the body, no problem with filler hose. And the small lines seem to work just fine with the extra height.
Read that the steering wheel driveline would be fine and so far that appears fine, but the boot is too short. Will need to look at that later.
Love the room under there now as I work on the floor. I also raised the truck on top of ramps to gain more height for again, work under there.
hope that helps
dougbert
What boot are you referring to for the steering driveline? Are you talking about the cover that is on the steering shaft out by the engine or something else?
^^ You are making it way harder than it needs to be. There are many fasteners at you local hardware store that will work... heck the stuff I found is much better than the OE. FWIW.
by the steering gear box, under the cover, I have a rubber boot.
Here are a couple of pics
see out the inner shaft is now exposed. Need to think how to fix this
dougbert
Given the doubler equipped, V8 powered FJ6X's don't seem to have frame issues until extremely extreme I don't think that any reasonable V8 build will make enough torque to be a problem.