Builds dougbert's future 350 swap: How much torque is too much? (1 Viewer)

[ntsqd]

Maybe some AMP Research power steps? They don't give them away, but I've been impressed with those that I've seen.

 

[JohninFla]

Some kind of step up is a great idea. I just measured mine, with 33's and an OME lift, it is 25 inches from the driveway to the door sill. That's a big first step.

Chateau de John has an opening down here in February, let me know when you and the lady are coming down! :-D

 

[Elbert]

absolutely no problem. Having others question my assumptions help ensure a better build. If not this time, another time you will help prevent extra work/money/time.

thanks

BTW, got the pucks, bushings, washers and bolts on, save for #3 and #4, the bolts are too short by 1/2 inch. So I will visit the hardware store tomorrow morning for a grade 8, 6 inch bolt instead of the 5.5 inch.

Interestingly, #2 and #6 fit snug, but #3-5 all have gaps under the body - something bent in the body?

dougbert

Did you end up installing the 2 inch blocks for the body lift? and if so did you run into any issues?

 

[norsk]

Did you end up installing the 2 inch blocks for the body lift? and if so did you run into any issues?

Yep, 2 inchers installed
Pics of front, back and rear side in post #131
tires are 31x10.50x15

The only PITN (neck) was that the longest bolts in the kits were definitely TOO short by 1 inch. They came with 5.5 inchers fine threads, but I ended up buying 6.5 (fine threads) off of ebay.

I needed 4, but they had a box of 10, so now I have 6 or less extra, plus shorter 4.

It took me a couple of weeks, because I painted the mounts, upper and lower with Rust Bullet.Had to let dry for a few hours. I could not force myself to put new pucks on dirty and rusty mounts.I did one side at a time. wire brushing, 2 coats of RB and 1 count of glossy black. I lifted the one side high enough to get get the rotating wire brush in there AND on top of the frame. Did the top while the body was high enough. The DeWalt unit was/is great. $60 which saved so much time. The 'de-rusting' was the most time intensive. I could have slapped them all in, in one day, but....naaaaw

Ensuring that I sized each of the 6 mounts correctly prior to ordering was somewhat difficult for me. Had to cut off a couple of the old bolts and they would not budge. You reuse some of the old washers with the new bolts.

You just "gotta know" where the bolts are for mount #6. You get them from underneath - MUD was the only source for that info.

was told the gas filler would need to be moved, because the tank "is attached to the frame". Nope, the tank is mounted to the body, no problem with filler hose. And the small lines seem to work just fine with the extra height.

Read that the steering wheel driveline would be fine and so far that appears fine, but the boot is too short. Will need to look at that later.

Love the room under there now as I work on the floor. I also raised the truck on top of ramps to gain more height for again, work under there.


hope that helps

dougbert

 

[norsk]

I have been painting under the body, as per above, and found I need to replace the bolt anchors around the shifting hole in the tranny hump. They are very brittle and some missing. These go in the small holes in post #138, last picture

Pics below of this square anchor, which I believe is 4 or 6 mm bolt receiver.

Anyone have a source for this, or the proper name and/or part number, etc?

I have search here and on the web, but I think I am using the wrong name for it

dougbert

 

[dbleon]

Ace hardware had a similar plastic nut that fit... Thats what i used.

 

[Spike Strip]

I found the exact ones, except in black at clipsandfasteners.com

 

[Elbert]

Yep, 2 inchers installed
Pics of front, back and rear side in post #131
tires are 31x10.50x15

The only PITN (neck) was that the longest bolts in the kits were definitely TOO short by 1 inch. They came with 5.5 inchers fine threads, but I ended up buying 6.5 (fine threads) off of ebay.

I needed 4, but they had a box of 10, so now I have 6 or less extra, plus shorter 4.

It took me a couple of weeks, because I painted the mounts, upper and lower with Rust Bullet.Had to let dry for a few hours. I could not force myself to put new pucks on dirty and rusty mounts.I did one side at a time. wire brushing, 2 coats of RB and 1 count of glossy black. I lifted the one side high enough to get get the rotating wire brush in there AND on top of the frame. Did the top while the body was high enough. The DeWalt unit was/is great. $60 which saved so much time. The 'de-rusting' was the most time intensive. I could have slapped them all in, in one day, but....naaaaw

Ensuring that I sized each of the 6 mounts correctly prior to ordering was somewhat difficult for me. Had to cut off a couple of the old bolts and they would not budge. You reuse some of the old washers with the new bolts.

You just "gotta know" where the bolts are for mount #6. You get them from underneath - MUD was the only source for that info.

was told the gas filler would need to be moved, because the tank "is attached to the frame". Nope, the tank is mounted to the body, no problem with filler hose. And the small lines seem to work just fine with the extra height.

Read that the steering wheel driveline would be fine and so far that appears fine, but the boot is too short. Will need to look at that later.

Love the room under there now as I work on the floor. I also raised the truck on top of ramps to gain more height for again, work under there.


hope that helps

dougbert

What boot are you referring to for the steering driveline? Are you talking about the cover that is on the steering shaft out by the engine or something else?

 

[norsk]

What boot are you referring to for the steering driveline? Are you talking about the cover that is on the steering shaft out by the engine or something else?

by the steering gear box, under the cover, I have a rubber boot.

Here are a couple of pics

see how the inner shaft is now exposed. Need to think how to fix this, covering it

dougbert

 

[norsk]

I found the exact ones, except in black at clipsandfasteners.com

black would be fine.

but do you remember the part name or better still, the part number???

I have been through all their categories and cannot see it (yet)

thx

dougbert

 

[norsk]

FOUND SOMETHING that might work for the shifter hump rubber hold down:

I think I found the proper name of the anchor should be 'grommets' and found some at clipsandfasteners

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Se...ota+#6+screw+gromet+9mm&Search.x=0&Search.y=0

they are called Screw Grommets

I measured mine to be 9.2 mm square.
A M6 bolt was too big
Don't know the length, will measure some still in the truck with some micro-calipers and get the bolt/screw size.

In the above web page, they use the following to describe screw sizes:

#6 screw size, which is a M3.5
#8 is a M4.2
#10 is a M4.8
#12 is a M5.5
#14 is a M6.3 or 1/4"

Therefore a #12 screw might work in the following:

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/product_p/a21605.htm

9mm x 9mm hole size and which is 17mm long

or the following:

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Toyota_Fender_Liner_Screw_Grommet_12_Scrw_Sz_p/a19194.htm

9mm x 9mm hole as well and which is 19mm long

Need to measure the hole as well as the screws back at the truck.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Toyota_Fndr_Lining_Scrw_Grommet_20mm_Hd_Dia_p/a19721.htm

fits into a 8mm x 8mm hole and is 22mm long


Sure did not know there were SO MANY KINDS of anchers, attachment and connectors


dougbert

 

[dbleon]

^^ You are making it way harder than it needs to be. There are many fasteners at you local hardware store that will work... heck the stuff I found is much better than the OE. FWIW.

 

[norsk]

^^ You are making it way harder than it needs to be. There are many fasteners at you local hardware store that will work... heck the stuff I found is much better than the OE. FWIW.

went to 2 Ace Hardware stores, one very big, and they could NOT find anything near this anchor. So it might be store specific, as they mentioned each store is free to select many of their own suppliers of parts.

dougbert

 

[ntsqd]

BTW: to answer the title's question, 600 ft-lbs doesn't seem to be too much. Went right up this w/o issue on 315's & 3.73's (& the p-brake left on! ).

 

[Elbert]

by the steering gear box, under the cover, I have a rubber boot.

Here are a couple of pics

see out the inner shaft is now exposed. Need to think how to fix this

dougbert

yeah... I see now.. not a big deal on the rubber boot itself, but good to keep crap out of the joint. my concern would be if the steering shaft got over-extended... I know they make and or you could make a spacer to address that.

 

[norsk]

BTW: to answer the title's question, 600 ft-lbs doesn't seem to be too much. Went right up this w/o issue on 315's & 3.73's (& the p-brake left on! ).

LOL, great pic

my concern was the larger torque in the TLC body/frame - could it handle large torque?

dougbert

 

[ntsqd]

Given the doubler equipped, V8 powered FJ6X's don't seem to have frame issues until extremely extreme I don't think that any reasonable V8 build will make enough torque to be a problem.

 

[norsk]

Given the doubler equipped, V8 powered FJ6X's don't seem to have frame issues until extremely extreme I don't think that any reasonable V8 build will make enough torque to be a problem.

thanks

this thread and the rebuild experience (and all those who have so far posted comments on it) has given me a great learning experience on so many levels. Looking forward to completing it in the next 8 months - I hope!

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Still been 'brushing' my frame, section by section and last night I encountered one of those very hard rust encrusted section and just took so much time and muscle to brush out.

So, looking at the problem, I said to myself: I need something harder to grind that rust out. Doh! I have a grinder disk I can put on this DeWalt.

Did so and started grinding (carefully) and viola! That red stuff just came off so much better. Finished that section in a few minutes and then switched back to the wire brush and it finished up the small patches real quick too.

Wish I had known that when I started this project.
Use the grinder disc for the hard rust, finish up with the wire brush and the easy stuff.

Nicely painted now.

Others probably knew all this, but it was a re-discovery for me.

dougbert

 

[norsk]

Decided to finish one task first, and that is the frame cleanup and painting, will move back
to the roof and underbody when the frame is complete, save for the engine mount areas in the front

Started working on the rear double C channel on the frame.
Got the receiver removed, then the original cross piece. Pic of those two at https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8794646&postcount=131

Now have access to the very ugly C channels - filled with rust and BULGING between the C channels - argh!

more grinding, drilling, tapping and use of harsh words

Steps I found to work:

grind off the bottom part of the pin/rivots
drill hole into center of the remaining pin
start with small drill, work through 4 or so drills, increasing the size.
drill about 1/2 up the pin
big hammer and a flat punch,
bang it several times,
as needed use a screwdriver to push the outer pin flanges into the center.
If not moving, drill the hole some more and bang it again and again,
pin pops out, move on to the next one

Pic 1 of DS C Channel, lots of rust growth between the channels
Pic 2 of PS C Channel ditto
Pic 3 of rust ugly rear diff that needs some good buffing
Pic 4 of PS Front shock mount, with 2nd coat of Rust Bullet on, much better looking than the rusty thing it was.
Now is painted gloss black

Glad I decided to do the C channels now and not wait. That rust growth is eating good metal

dougbert