Cigarette Lighter = Power Outlet? (2 Viewers)

[Copenhagen1]

Here's my 2001....








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[APKhaos]

DONE! Cursed these outlets for ten years, and it was such a simple fix. Thanks guys!

 

[SkyTim]

Find the fuse and relay box under the hood...forward of the gas vapor recirculation box, in back of the battery. Take a look at the parts location diagram on the cover. You'll notice the ACC relay is the middle relay in the row closest to the engine.

To get power to the outlets regardless of key position, simply remove the ACC relay. Make a short jumper (12 or 14ga) wire, strip each end and attach a 1/4" male Fast-On (flat tab) terminal on each end, and insert each end into the larger relay sockets.

This is not the case on my 2004, so it must have changed somewhere along the line. There is no ACC relay in the engine compartment relay/fuse box (I checked). The 2004 service manual calls it out on the REAR side of the left hand cowl junction box inside the vehicle, where it is quite difficult to get to.

I'd be careful about putting a jumper in the relay socket as listed above without first determining which pins go to the relay contacts and which go to the relay coil power - short out the power pins and you will blow something upstream.

Tim

 

[hankinid]

This is not the case on my 2004, so it must have changed somewhere along the line. There is no ACC relay in the engine compartment relay/fuse box (I checked). The 2004 service manual calls it out on the REAR side of the left hand cowl junction box inside the vehicle, where it is quite difficult to get to.

I'd be careful about putting a jumper in the relay socket as listed above without first determining which pins go to the relay contacts and which go to the relay coil power - short out the power pins and you will blow something upstream.

Tim

SkyTim...check p2 of this thread, look for post #35 from RobRed...he brought up the issue that the 2004's are NOT the same as earlier hundy's. Ymmv, obviously.

Also, check the OP...question was asked about a 2000my, I responded with my sig indicating I'm owned by an '01.

As to the last paragraph, I checked the factory EWD manual and noted that the relay power contacts are wider than the coil connections. I obviously used my '01 as a guinea pig before posting...I did the change about a year ago.

Steve

 

[RobRed]

This is not the case on my 2004, so it must have changed somewhere along the line. There is no ACC relay in the engine compartment relay/fuse box (I checked). The 2004 service manual calls it out on the REAR side of the left hand cowl junction box inside the vehicle, where it is quite difficult to get to.

I'd be careful about putting a jumper in the relay socket as listed above without first determining which pins go to the relay contacts and which go to the relay coil power - short out the power pins and you will blow something upstream.

Tim

Yes the 2003+ cars are different. For those with later model trucks you do have to access the cowl junction box. I updated my blog post to call out the difference more clearly.

Make Your Power Outlets ALWAYS On - TLC FAQ

Agree with you Tim that it's a must to confim any electrical mod with the EWD and FSM before proceeding. The above discussion on the engine located relay is correct since pins 1 and 2 happen to be the larger and correct locations.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

I did this mod today. Works like a champ. The only thing I have to remember is that the circuit is still running off the primary battery and not the auxiliary battery.

 

[jeetS]

^ whats the best way to get them on the aux battery?

I got my service manuals but apparently new toyotas FSM don't have the EWD in them….too big…lol
now gotta find the EWD!

 

[wesintl]

I'm guessing no one has done this on an 03-04+?

I pulled the stuff in the footwell and jumped the acc relay. Problem is there is a bunch more stuff that runs on this relay. The radio and the nav was on...

 

[Lauriepaul]

yes you caan

 

[Explorer2000]

We haven't screwed with the CIG circuit in this thread other than to say it's completely separate from the ACC stuff



CIG indeed runs stuff but it's dead with key off. Purpose of the thread was to let you run low amp stuff knowing that you may drain your battery if you connect too much stuff for too long a time.

Fixable by adding a dropout relay that cuts power to ACC when the battery drains down to a voltage that you specify.

Steve

Hankinid,

Thanks for providing the info. Definitely will mod mine. I am totally new to cars, so just half guessing here. One concern of mine is that the ACC relay might there to provide electrical isolation down the power outlet during engine start up. If we short circuit the ACC relay so it's alway on (basically no isolation), is it possible that there will be surge current that could damage the electronics plug into the power outlet?

 

[TXLX100]

It's possible, but isn't there still a fuse for those outlets in between the relay and the outlet? Some cigarette style plugs have fuses to protect the device.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Mine has been done since May 2012 and it is still one of my favorite mods on this truck. Haven't had a problem yet.

 

[hankinid]

It's possible, but isn't there still a fuse for those outlets in between the relay and the outlet? Some cigarette style plugs have fuses to protect the device.

There is a single fuse between the relay output wire and the three outlets.

Steve

 

[TheForger]

@RobRed followed the directions and jumped the correct terminals (I believe) but still no ACC power in the cab. What could be wrong?

 

[hankinid]

@RobRed followed the directions and jumped the correct terminals (I believe) but still no ACC power in the cab. What could be wrong?

View attachment 950681

Blown fuse?? You might want to check power between the terminals shorting the ACC relay contacts and ground.

Steve

 

[70 FJ40]

I did this mod Sunday afternoon. Checked the o see that the plugs were hot with no key and they were. Sweet. Never thought anything else about it until Tuesday morning when my wife called and said her Cruiser won't run. . I asked here to open the hood and undo my sweet mod. She did and presto the truck ran fine. What's my problem? I have double and triple checked to make sure I did it the way everyone else has. She said the truck ran terrible on the way to her appointment and when she got done and ready to head home it didn't want to start and when it did all the check engine and battery lights and such came on. Then it would just die. ???????

Any ideas? My truck is a completely stock '01 with 120k.​

 

[RobRed]

Lots of folks have done this mod without issue. If you are not getting power to the outlets than a blown CIG / PWR fuse is likely. As for the truck running terrible there would have to be an anomalous electrical issue in your truck.

 

[70 FJ40]

So I don't know what was wrong the first time but because no one else had the problems I had I thought I would give it another try. So far no problems. I had left the relay in the box just sitting there so if I ever needed it it would be right there. This time I put on the door pocket. Is it possible the extra relay sitting in the box loose could have caused those goofy symptoms?

 

[RobRed]

certainly if the relay terminals came into contact with other contacts but it's unlikely.

 

[aljogav]

I'm glad I bumped into this thread. I too have been frustrated with the key controlled power outlets. I have a fridge in the back on long trips and when I make short stops for food or gas, I leave the valet key in the ignition so I can keep the fridge running and lock doors with my regular key. Now I can do this mod and not have to leave a key in the ignition. My question is - I was told my ARB fridge is equipped with some type of sensor that shuts off when voltage is low so it doesn't drain the battery all the way. Has anyone had any experience with this and is the rear power outlet safe enough to power the fridge? So far no issues...