Cigarette Lighter = Power Outlet? (1 Viewer)

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From my google search I found this.

Relay jumper.jpg

Pretty sure this is what you want to build for the jumper, just use 12 or 14 gage wire.
Relay jumper.jpg
 
A writeup will be it for now, dig camera is tu, new one coming but that's on Father's day...:p

Info is from the 2000 Electrical Wiring Diagram book for the LX, LC should be the same. Just a note to let you know that changing the electrical system is risky if you don't know what you're doing, I'm not responsible for incinerating your cruiser, etc.

Wiring for the ACC circuit starts with a 50A fuse to the relay power contacts, and then to a 15A fuse labeled "PWR OUT" located on the lower left side kick panel inside the truck.

I'll pause just a little say Toy designed the wiring in this circuit to take 15A maximum...and that's the total current for the outlet next to the lighter and the console and the rear outlet. DO NOT consider going to a larger fuse inside the truck.:doh:

Find the fuse and relay box under the hood...forward of the gas vapor recirculation box, in back of the battery. Take a look at the parts location diagram on the cover. You'll notice the ACC relay is the middle relay in the row closest to the engine.

To get power to the outlets regardless of key position, simply remove the ACC relay. Make a short jumper (12 or 14ga) wire, strip each end and attach a 1/4" male Fast-On (flat tab) terminal on each end, and insert each end into the larger relay sockets. Use a good crimping tool (no vise-grips, etc.). A bead of solder on the end of the wire AFTER crimping won't hurt.

Do not go cheap on the terminals, get some with either a solid tubular end for the wire or a brazed end. Cheapo's where the wire termination area simply touches on each side are **** and will not give you a reliable termination over time. If the terminals fit loosely into the relay sockets, you can add a bit of thickness with thin brass shims you can cut from material from your local hobby or rc store.

Post back if you have questions.

hth

Steve

Doesn't this mod make the ACC circuit live to all ACC components, like the radio? Sorry I dont have the EWD handy.
 
That's what left me stranded at DFW w/ dead battery. Thinking about maybe adding a 2nd outlet on the lower dash panel between cig lighter and power socket. OEM would look great, but the germans make some very nice outlets. Not sure they're compatible w/ standard US cig-lighter plugs. Maybe try one for a while & see.

May also try forming a sold bussbar instead of the wire jumper...ocd-looks-prettier syndrome

www.rallylights.com Sesquanna (sp?) Motor Sports. There's a section on connectors. Check Hella stuff as well as an MBZ ML series outlet at a dealer.

Steve

I do have an external battery that can charge my phone now. I keep it in the center console.
http://www.amazon.com/New-Trent-IMP1000-Thunderbolt-Blackberry/dp/B003ZBZ64Q/ref=zg_bs_2516700011_5
 
Doesn't this mod make the ACC circuit live to all ACC components, like the radio? Sorry I dont have the EWD handy.
No, the ACC realy only feeds the 3 power outlets. Kind of a confusing name for the relay, though...
 
No, the ACC realy only feeds the 3 power outlets. Kind of a confusing name for the relay, though...


This is interesting...

I have a fridge and battery in the back of our '06. Built a "Y" harness that powers the fridge off the battery of course but the 3rd leg plugs into the 12V socket in the back. On road trips the 12V plug is in and charges fine with the ignition on. With the ignition off it is disconnected from the main battery as expected BUT the NAV gets backfed from the aux battery and stays on... I would love it if this was not the case and am wondering if how to change it. I was at the point of adding a dedicated charge wire to the rear battery but the jumper trick would be way easier.
 
Cigarette lighter is the only socket on a 15A fuse...
I should correct this, since I wasn't looking at the EWD when I wrote it. There are several other items on the CIG fuse circuit, like the center ECU, clock, etc.
 
re_guderian said:
I should correct this, since I wasn't looking at the EWD when I wrote it. There are several other items on the CIG fuse circuit, like the center ECU, clock, etc.

That was what I was getting too. Have this mod is powering other systems and may load the battery over time and drain it. Going from memory I think the stereo amp is powered as well though in standby.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
 
RobRed said:
That was what I was getting too. Have this mod is powering other systems and may load the battery over time and drain it. Going from memory I think the stereo amp is powered as well though in standby.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

Yeah, but not the ACC relay, it only powers the 3 outlets.
 
I should correct this, since I wasn't looking at the EWD when I wrote it. There are several other items on the CIG fuse circuit, like the center ECU, clock, etc.

We haven't screwed with the CIG circuit in this thread other than to say it's completely separate from the ACC stuff


That was what I was getting too. Have this mod is powering other systems and may load the battery over time and drain it. Going from memory I think the stereo amp is powered as well though in standby.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD
CIG indeed runs stuff but it's dead with key off. Purpose of the thread was to let you run low amp stuff knowing that you may drain your battery if you connect too much stuff for too long a time.

Fixable by adding a dropout relay that cuts power to ACC when the battery drains down to a voltage that you specify.

Steve
 
[STRIKE]I get what the direction of the thread is. But throwing a jumper in place of a relay concerns me, not from an electrical point of view but simply having other systems powered when they dont need to be. I'm not referring to the power plugs but other components that run off the ACC circuit that may have a parasitic draw.

I would simply run a direct, fused circuit to the power plug from the battery and not jump the relay. 16 feet of 18ga, a fuse and two terminals and you have always on power socket.

I'll have a look at the EWD and possibly fine tune my response in this thread.[/STRIKE]

It's all good https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...rette-lighter-power-outlet-2.html#post7623884
 
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I'm not referring to the power plugs but other components that run off the ACC circuit that may have a parasitic draw.

I would simply run a direct, fused circuit to the power plug from the battery and not jump the relay. 16 feet of 18ga, a fuse and two terminals and you have always on power socket.

I'll have a look at the EWD and possibly fine tune my response in this thread.
Rob, i'll look forward to that. I know just enough EE stuff to be dangerous:cheers:

How would parasitic draw happen unless something's plugged into one of the 3 sockets?...50A fuse is direct to interior fuse box, feed from that box Y's with a wire direct to the rear and one to the console. Another Y to the dash and console sockets.

Thanks inquiring minds, etc.

Steve
 
After reviewing the EWD (Power Source diagram MY2000) it looks like the jumper will hot up the power outlets only (Right Center stack, Arm Rest and Rear Cargo). The other systems I was concerned about are still switched. Good to go.

Nice catch to those promoting this mod.

[EDIT]

It looks like in later model 100's the ACC relay will hot up the CIG circuit as well.

This is from the 2004 EWD

Screen Shot 2012-05-16 at 10.43.04 AM.png
Screen Shot 2012-05-16 at 10.43.04 AM.png
 
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Sweet! good to know, now I can get'er done. I needed to charge my phone camping a few weeks ago. Did not like the idea of turning my ignition on to accomplish this. Now I have a great work around.
 
That is helpful RobRed. Any chance of including a picture with the Jumper in place? (I have a 2000 also)
 
Glad this thread surfaced. Def. one of the best free mods on any vehicle, at least for me.
 

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