Any Body Running Air Bag Suspension (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

late post - I'm noticing that some 100 series guys are dumping their air suspension (maybe hydralic or oil and not air) (mostly in EU and Africa) and going back to solid coils. Think its due to faulty electronics

Ps Still not done diddly about bags over coils and looking at just doing airbag inserts on rear (for heavy loads during camping trips)

Lal
 
Watch W adjusting the air bags near the end of this short video clip.

http://medusa.ih8mud.com/images/WCrush1.wmv

The problems I have observed with 4 independent air bags is that you really need to pay attention. It is really easy to be late or early with the air and get the body all fubarred.

Bad ass! You'd get some crazy looks on the highway dropping down 6 inchs while passing people, psssssssss...
 
Bad ass! You'd get some crazy looks on the highway dropping down 6 inchs while passing people, psssssssss...

not as crazy as you would think
i had a bagged S-10 that i could drop the frame onto the freeway with while driving. when you start tossin sparks then you get funny looks :D:D:D:D
 
no idea who did this but this is in the BJ 70 that i am parting out now

BJ70airbags.jpg


Best Regards

Gord
 
the way that is set up looks as if it would act as mostly a helper spring. i can see it adding some slight lift but being sprung under for "offroad function" not fully thought through. thought was there tho i guess... that counts as something i reacon.
 
A easy way could be leaving a one spring ( the master one ) to locate the axle and all the " support " work can do by the air bag
 
Im looking at running some 2" high bags over 2" lowered coils to give standard ride height, but these bags lift to 6" so get 4" of height adjustement, but wont drop to the bumpstop if the airbag fails for my daily driver/weekend basher.

can go std hwy, and lift it as required off road, or where ever, as well as keep it level loaded.

Playing with it for a set up on a 100 we have cut into a tray back, for dropping the camper on and off as well.
 
LOL well been a while since i came to hang out around here and BAM some stuff i actually
spent and spend a good amount of time with. STILL all just what i have done, experimented
with and still LEARNING daily. could all use more playing with :)

OH AND this is a old post :)

and at what $$$ level you are wanting to spend on this will allow you to do different things
(please note i did not say more $$$ you will have something better)

just a VERY VERY simplified run down

bags as overload/in coils NOT really a good way to use to increase height as you greater limit
travel to next to NIL. use as they are intended :) heavier loads.


adjustable height with coils/coilovers, two ways really, CAGED bags OR moving mounting
points. basically do the same thing just mounted differently. can use isolation bags ( small
moment, very HIGH load & HD, and cheap)

can also add it leaf springs above as well, but require a bit more complex brackets to achieve
the same goal.

i have seen some work done with a single middle mount on various rigs, none first hand though.
might have some use.


complete suspension setups

puter controlled : TONS OF ECUs more and more every 6 months. issues with most
is sensors, resistance to abuse/use, and SPEED !!!!!!!!!! most OEMs are slow to process controls
for the bags, ie adjust every min or longer. some are 4 wheel sensors, 2 sensors, or front 2 and 1 rear
sensors, aftermarket stuff continues to BOOM, with lower dollar complete setups, more advancement, etc.... ALMOST all aftermarket stuff is BASED or use OEM parts off different vehicles. ( intersting note :) )


independent control, can do all 4, front 2 only, rear 2 only, control or leave the opposite end at a SET PSI. requires too much input really doing all 4. SPEED of the control is the issue specficially in the VID that dusa posted, which can be simply put on a flow valve. need supple suspension, and supple movements, drastic changes can get you where you dont want to be. something to said about being able
to know how it feels/works.


SET PSI, can do all 4, front 2 only, rear 2 only. can chain front two or chain back two, and run opposite
set independent or all independent. front set indy, and rear chain is probably the most stable with great flex and easiest next to all 4 set indy.

BAGS are not ment to be moved/used on internal bumpstops, ONLY AT REST !!!!!!!!!! and are not made to
act as a bump for your rig when jumping it, etc.... at least every bag and manufacture i talked with. a major issue when your ruining bags at $200+ a pop

BAGS have NO structure, will NOT keep themselves aligned. straight up straight down. high movement bags are out there, but they are THIN, lower ratings, and do wear faster when comparing. more side to side faster the wear. MIN air pressure i do reccomend to prevent bag fold, specifically when internal bumpstops are used at rest. THIS is why CAGED/structurally controlled movement is required when adding this onto another suspesion setup.

not a fan of OEM bags, ( though i have not done RR stuff ) PLASTIC= YACK, thin bag, most taper, small usable travel without significant wear issues.

enough for now
 
We run 79 model troopy's with airbags between the leaf spring and chassis, they work really well for carying extra weight :)

Sean
 
I have a friend with a 45 wagon that runs mog axles and bags. here are a few pic's.
tim's cruzzer1.jpg
tim's cruzzer2.jpg
tim's cruzzer3.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom