AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 61
- Messages
- 2,628
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
Let us know when you need the 47 moved...the 80 is raring to go!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
NIce! man, beats me out then for sure.He's 16... (Hope you don't mind your cousin interfering again here...)
Nah not particularly worried at all, hope you didn't think that I would beHe's 16... (Hope you don't mind your cousin interfering again here...)
thanks, looks like I have a new target: have two cruisers before I'm 23.....NIce! man, beats me out then for sure.
im 23 on my 2nd 45 now, but when i bouth my first 45 and joined mud i was 18.
great looking 47, keep it up!
haha, you got it, but there's a surprise within a surprise, coming up soonPTO Winch?
yeah thanks for all your help over the project marbles, I think that I have that EXCESSIVE pressure problem as well. I should notice a difference between a non-running engine pushing and a started one right? should become easier when started? (assuming that the engine had not being run for a few hours when testing with a non-running engine)I doubt whether a new booster will shorten your pedal-travel (so that it stops on one-pedal-push rather than two).
A bad booster generally means just that it requires EXCESSIVE pedal pressure to stop (rather than a double-stomp on the pedal to stop).
I think the issue is more likely to be wheel-cylinder-adjustment.
presuming u mean rego? as is it is hell fun to drive at the momentHow far off driving mate?
....I should notice a difference between a non-running engine pushing and a started one right? should become easier when started? (assuming that the engine had not being run for a few hours when testing with a non-running engine)
also how do I adjust my drum brake all around wheel-cylinder?..
I don't notice any difference with my brake-pedal-pressure for "engine-running" versus "engine-not-running" on my diesel (BJ40). And the reason for this is that I have a vacuum reservoir that stores a LOT of vacuum. Your HJ47 should be the same.
So to check your booster, pump your brakes till your vacuum disappears (and if your HJ47 is like my BJ40, you should then be hearing a loud buzzer that is warning you of "low vacuum"). Then put your foot on the brake (moderate pressure) and start your engine. If the booster is OK you should feel the pedal fall a further inch or so.
As for adjusting the brakes, jack each wheel up in turn, prise out the rubber grommets that cover the adjustment-holes, and use a stubby screwdriver or similar to gradually turn the adjustment wheels one click at a time (by pushing the little "wheel-spokes" inwards towards your axle-centre-line) as you rotate that wheel. Stop as soon as you hear/feel that shoe/lining start to rub on the drum and move onto the next adjuster.
Go all around doing that and retry the pedal. (If you've managed to move an adjuster quite a bit before the relevant brake-shoe has begun to rub then you can rest assured that you've shortened your pedal travel).
If you still have too much pedal travel, then go for a drive doing a few good "stops" in both forward and reverse to "recentre your linings" and then repeat the process.
And if your travel is still too much, begin adjusting a bit more harshly (until each wheel becomes a little hard to turn and then back off a notch or two).