Yeah, I searched....(76 Pig 2F Tech Query Inside)
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
the 74 carb which uses a clamp type of seal around its throat measured about 145 to bottom of band on throat...154 to top of throat. the 86 was about 150 to bottom of seal lip, about 154 to top of lip...not sure on the insulators, but maybe the carbs are pretty much the same but there is the difference in height of the cover? which would put the early 2F cover and air cleaner combo should fit the early or later carb, and the later cover and air cleaner combo will fit the early or late carb, the cornfussion grows from using combos of an early cover with a later cleaner and vise versa...I never laid hands on the right mid-late 70s carb to run the correct emissions which is why I ended up using the complete package from the 86 right down to the cat and computer...smog nazis
I got a year and 3 months before I gotta yank off my intake and swap to the smog gear
BUT, an old guy told me that's how you keep the smog gear in working order....only hook it up for 10 minutes every 2 years
I got a year and 3 months before I gotta yank off my intake and swap to the smog gear BUT, an old guy told me that's how you keep the smog gear in working order....only hook it up for 10 minutes every 2 years
measure the bolt centers...it looks REAL close
and would be quite the cats meoa in these here muddy hills
edit: that says toyota...I'll bet it would fit, where do we get ours?
- Thread starter
- #64
Good point, as these later is sharp.
Too bad there's not a 2.5F option. Haha.
All that'll remain of the current 2F, as configured, is the block and oil pan (few other items) since a later head and 3F manifolds.
Why not run later valve cover?
It ain't a resto, so as long as its functional and fits within the confines, see no reason to not.
It'd look cool, even cooler if the entire valve cover was exposed, like the later cleaners would.
All I really need is a cover for the later head.
Not so sure I don't have one from the parts Pig purchase, since I vaguely recollect the one I unloaded saying 2F and chuckling.
Going to go back by and check in a few hours.
If not, still have access to the free 2F that I picked up at buddy's shop from the '80 40, since okiedave added it to his collection of stored parts.
Only pic I have of it, whole.
- Thread starter
- #65
What is that?
just some super cool piece of nostalgia that you must have for your project
-as will I
maybe you could have a costem nameplate cut from some nice aluminum stock and have it pinned or even tigged over the top of the 2F and make it an actual 2.5F valve cover
FWIW, would try to find that fabled 70 series 3F head that was supposedly a 3FE head chamber without the extra bosses cut-out for the injectors....not that would put your true 2.5F project over the top....the ultimate stroked F series with all stock parts
. heck you wouldn't even need to mill for compression. sorry...should it be 2.5F, or 2F+, or 2 1/2F...255F, F2.5 F2+ F2 1/2 2+F.....maybe it should just say Fmax...
seems to me someone used jag rods and custom 305 pistons in their F project..... the stock 305 piston is very close to the 2F bore(oversize a couple maybe 3 hundredths...) not sure which rods...thinking the jag rods and some other strategic shaving here and there- maybe needing to sleeve- NEEDING to sleeve the block to run the oversize pistons...point is, how much does one spend to punch out an F motor? depending on the amount of trade work the machinist needs(he's going to be moving
) I might just think about seeing.
) I might just think about seeing.- Thread starter
- #69
This is worse than picking pumps for that black dress, I tell ya......
Bahahaha.
just some super cool piece of nostalgia that you must have for your project
Bahahaha.
I sense a hint if sarcasm.
FWIW, would try to find that fabled 70 series 3F head that was supposedly a 3FE head chamber without the extra bosses cut-out for the injectors....not that would put your true 2.5F project over the top....the ultimate stroked F series with all stock parts
It'd be a step backwards.....according to Jim C.s input on some older threads.
The +87 (not the 85-87 2F(3F) head) has a smaller kidney shaped combustion chamber, visually seen in a few of Yspen's posts, so would negate any benefit from boring, and there's no replacement for displacement, right? Even if measured in a hyper-dermic needle, eh?
Bahahaha.
Granted, it may allow for greater compression ratio, without milling an 85-87 head, but the 3F and 3FE both were smaller displacement, more efficient engines, as it's stated (not from any gained technical knowledge on my part.)
In conversation with Yspen, he claimed it was $700 shipping alone to transport a head from US to SA, so it's have to be a major improvement to warrant.
In all of my research, the proper badge would be 3F.
3F head (85-87 specific)
3F manifolds
3F carb
3F rods (85-87 specific)
3F cam (well, it's a superseded part number that correlates with the 3FE, so...)
Flat top pistons.
May be easier to run the older, just to avoid confusion of a complex, algorithm-ish numerical name.
- Thread starter
- #70
As it was explained to me, boring is boring, so might as well bore the max.
Had anyone else but this builder make that statement, I'd question the validity, but I trust his grasp on all aspects.
Just a little sumthin' I picked up at the PNC swapmeet a few years back. Seemed like the perfect finishing touch for my built 2F. I just HAD to have it so I didn't bicker with the 20 dollar asking price...
Even came with the 4 matching chrome hold-down nuts.
- Thread starter
- #72
So, a few minor hurdles, all due to ignorance on my part.
First, I ordered a triple groove pulley to power the AC compressor and power steering pump, thinking redundancy was ideal.
Ordered the later water pump, fan, fan clutch, again thinking the better means to cool.
Onur brought up the possibility that it may not fit without moving engine back, which I'd really like to avoid.
Ige posted this in the 76 thread.
And hoping to get more info on, more experiences regarding, since I'm returning other parts, ordering parts now that are incompatible with the H55/split case.
Again, an 85-87 head on a 76 block.
Is there fan options besides OE that hug the clutch like what I think Ige's pic is showing?
Help is appreciated.
First, I ordered a triple groove pulley to power the AC compressor and power steering pump, thinking redundancy was ideal.
Ordered the later water pump, fan, fan clutch, again thinking the better means to cool.
Onur brought up the possibility that it may not fit without moving engine back, which I'd really like to avoid.
Ige posted this in the 76 thread.
And hoping to get more info on, more experiences regarding, since I'm returning other parts, ordering parts now that are incompatible with the H55/split case.
Again, an 85-87 head on a 76 block.
Is there fan options besides OE that hug the clutch like what I think Ige's pic is showing?
Help is appreciated.
I was just thinking off of the top of my head. I really do not know if it will be a problem. My guess from the pics is no. But a modified fan shroud looks necessary--maybe a thinner 2 core radiator--possibly a aluminum style one for fitment might be ideal.
I don't think it's a big deal though in the grand scheme of things.
I don't think it's a big deal though in the grand scheme of things.
- Thread starter
- #74
I'd have never considered it, so very, very glad you did.
Would the evaporator have any bearing on radiator choice?
is doing?
A fanclutch does not like to fit between the 2F and a Pig radiator. It IS possible, with either a 2-row radiator or by moving the radiator forward (our Blue Pig runs a fan clutch). I never saw the need, TWRECKS has a direct-drive fan...
- Thread starter
- #77
Will have provisions in place for both, but I'm not going to worry about recoring OE radiator until determined.
- Thread starter
- #78
Question, probably dumb.
There were two versions of a late 3F carb, one with provisions for air conditioning kick up and one without.
I don't believe that the Trollhole carb I have coming has provisions for AC idle adjustment.
The AC plans include the in cab controls from a 76 (RH drive, as dials on the right side...or wrong side...whatever) along with the OE evaporator (which needs modifications, and plan to source a newer pump that mounts to motor mount, along with modern condenser and modern auxiliary components.
So the question is, what's the best method to provide for an AC idle up?
On earlier 2Fs with AC, did the 2F carb have vacuum line for? How was it activated?
(We all know I'm still learning, so to clarify "activated". What did the carb vacuum line attach to on the AC that increased idle?)
I'm trying to do this "right" and have a resource for (even if its not right now) 3F carbs, but only have the part numbers and I don't know enough, nor does source, to differentiate between the part numbers only.
Best I can tell, there's two versions, one of which has additional ports, that I'm assuming are for the AC idle up, but have no clue if that's correct, nor do I know what it would even connect to to increase idle, the latter important in the event I sourced a 3F carb with provisions for AC, would need to know what AC components were compatible.
There were two versions of a late 3F carb, one with provisions for air conditioning kick up and one without.
I don't believe that the Trollhole carb I have coming has provisions for AC idle adjustment.
The AC plans include the in cab controls from a 76 (RH drive, as dials on the right side...or wrong side...whatever) along with the OE evaporator (which needs modifications, and plan to source a newer pump that mounts to motor mount, along with modern condenser and modern auxiliary components.
So the question is, what's the best method to provide for an AC idle up?
On earlier 2Fs with AC, did the 2F carb have vacuum line for? How was it activated?
(We all know I'm still learning, so to clarify "activated". What did the carb vacuum line attach to on the AC that increased idle?)
I'm trying to do this "right" and have a resource for (even if its not right now) 3F carbs, but only have the part numbers and I don't know enough, nor does source, to differentiate between the part numbers only.
Best I can tell, there's two versions, one of which has additional ports, that I'm assuming are for the AC idle up, but have no clue if that's correct, nor do I know what it would even connect to to increase idle, the latter important in the event I sourced a 3F carb with provisions for AC, would need to know what AC components were compatible.
there is a diaphram actuator on front of later carbs that gets vacuum signal thru a VSV operated by the AC system, which brings the idle up. I'm certain an idle up actuator can be fit to the linkage of about any carb. the vacuum source is the small nipple next to the brake booster nipple. when compressor is running, vsv opens vacuum to idle up diaphram...HTH