- Thread starter
- #41
you've got your mind made up you're going to mill the head for compression?
Yes....well, that's what was stated, along with decking the block and potentially boring for displacement, the latter is an assumption.
I have no qualms admitting to my ignorance in the engine department, as you're all aware, and never originally intended to do any "performance" modifications, or much beyond resealing and returning to OE (after compression test, of course) for that matter, BUT would like to DD the 76 and the piece of mind of knowing that there's no looming issues, or catastrophic failures (considering the history is spotty, but hasn't been legally driven in 13 years, so sitting) around the corner, coupled with the fact I'm pulling it anyway to reseal/refresh TC and tranny, it only makes sense to address in a long term manner.
Now, considering I want it done right, yet lack the abilities to guarantee, I have spoken to many local shops, spoken to the vendors that are prevalent on Mud, at some point, and all have expressed concern over "building" locally, due to lacking personal abilities.
Best local engine builder in town will bore, balance, head, but wants no part of the rest, and that's concerning, along with Mark's statements that the most critical time of a build is the first thirty seconds after start up and his stipulation that he won't build anything he's not present to be there for the initial cycle.
Add to that the free 2F I picked up a few weeks ago, that had 500 miles on it after being "professionally rebuilt" and I'm hesitant to undertake the process.
So, odds are, the entire engine will be seeing Colorado soon once I can get the title squared away, and once I acquire all the components that I can't source through Onur (have a list coming).
This seems to be my best option, and by all means a good one to have for the betterment of the overall restoration, and may not cost much more money based on my estimates and initial conversations with builder, plus he's experienced with achieving performance gain that are unintended, but "while I'm in there"....
CO is close, too.
Now, I'm looking for a known good head that I can get there in the near future, along with the manifolds, to begin what can occur in advance of getting engine there.
The most frustrating part is that I haven't called him sooner.
So, I don't know how much of the head will be removed, not sure how much the block will be decked, nor will I limit with stipulations regarding punching it out to more than necessary, because I fully trust that I'll be in good hands.
Side note: I swear I don't talk as much as I type.



the technical term would prolly be something like pipe pump to cooler; pipe cooler to pump; pipe valve to hose...
...trollhole on both counts. there will be virtually NO functional differences using the A/M carb and dizzy as compared to a desmogged OEM set-up, you already shelled out for em, and they're on the way. Why would you opt to hunt down and pay extra for the same results? FWIW, get it running good and strong; if you're concerned about longevity of the A/M parts, you can source factory stuff and rebuild as needed, then swap when finished, or when A/M craps out- and be driving your rig the whole while... things like carbs and dizzys are going to need attention over a long span of years and they're EASY to change out. focus on the rest of it as you've got those bases covered as it seems. the air cleaner I don't know which type your set-up will run...maybe just do a snorkle so the carb just has a top hat...the 76 hood is the raised version in order to clear the taller 2F air cleaner....just cut out what doesn't clear your air cleaner


till all players can tune together when considering a coating and possibility of fabrication later on...so, AFAIU, you are going to use an early block with later pistons and a later head and a 3F intake and carb...is this correct?
I think you're good to use the early cover with the later head...might get longer studs, might have enough threads to clamp and hold without...